Probably too traditional for the smooth jazz set and too smooth for the traditional jazzer, Zen Food, the latest from guitar wizard Kevin Eubanks, may indeed fall between two stools. For me, a guy with wildly eclectic tastes who stumbled into the wonderful world of jazz through the likes of Russ Freeman's Nocturnal Playground and Andy Narrell, this disc not only brings back fond memories, I believe it helps me gain access to a rather small but not unimportant sub-genre of jazz: what may be called rigorous jazz-lite. How's that for an oxymoron? I'm thinking of the Dan Siegel of Departure, David Sanborn of Time Again, and, most especially, that great but relatively unknown disc by Steve Erquiaga, guitarist for Andy Narrell, Erkiology. Zen Food has the same laid back yet obdurate feel of Erkiology, one of the most difficult--and rewarding--moves to pull off in jazz.
With Marvin "Smitty" Smith in the drum chair and Billy Pierce on tenor and soprano saxes, two jazzmen sporting extensive and impeccable jazz creds, there's sure to be some genuine jazz fireworks happening--check out "Los Angeles" and "Das It," for example. But the default vibe walks the thin line between smooth jazz and authentic creative improvised music (another name for just "jazz"). That's the sensibility that dominates such fine offerings as "The Dancing Sea," "Spider Monkey Cafe," and "6/8." A bloozy vibe imbues "The Dirty Monk" and "G.G.", while an elegiac tone dominates on "Offering" and "Adoration," the latter being an adaptation of a famous Christian hymn, "Praise to the Lord, the Almighty, the King of Creation," by 17th century German hymnist, Joachim Neander, set to the tune Lobe den Herren, learned by Eubanks from a well-known classical guitarist (presumably Christopher Parkening) the history of which Eubanks is apparently entirely unaware.
All in all, a very fine outing by Kevin Eubanks. 4 1/2 ****