Mediterranean Grains and Greens: A Book of Savory, Sun-Drenched Recipes (Hardcover)

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Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

Paula Wolfert's Mediterranean Grains and Greens shares her adventures as a cultural explorer. Her discoveries show the probing of a culinary scholar and the passion of a true amateur. The result is a rich tapestry of information, images, and alluring recipes. Even if you don't cook, you will be entranced as this culinary Scheherazade spins her tales of a thousand-and-one discoveries and delights, which, in this case, are all real.

Typically, Wolfert introduces her recipe for Wheatberries, Lentils, and Rice with Fresh Herbs by regaling you with information about many other pulse-and-grain dishes from Spain to the Middle East that you have probably never heard of. She then enchants you with the story of how a Cretan chef shared this particular recipe, and explains that on Crete, there are three names for this type of soup: one is rooted in ancient times, one is linked to a local festival, and the third uses a play on words.

Few recipes in this, Wolfert's fifth cookbook on the Mediterranean region, are familiar. Her goal is to open our eyes to ingredients like green wheat, farro, mallow, and Tuscan kale. Some of the work records recipes for earthy, traditional dishes that are fast disappearing from the table as women in Mediterranean countries no longer have the time to make them, and as prosperity pulls people away from this "cooking of the poor." This book should also inspire wider demand for wild greens such as tart purslane, spinach-like lamb's quarters, grains like farro, and other unfamiliar Mediterranean ingredients. Wolfert also suggests substitutes, since many of the greens are interchangeable with chard, arugula, watercress, or spinach.

For simple dishes, try Escarole Stuffed with Capers, Golden Raisins, and Pine Nuts; Egyptian koshery, a blend of rice, lentils, pasta, and browned onions; and Winter Squash Pilaf with Bulgur. Bread bakers will be intrigued by recipes that use barley, semolina, and chickpeas. --Dana Jacobi

From Publishers Weekly

In this return to the well of Mediterranean cooking, Wolfert (Cooking of the Eastern Mediterranean; Mediterranean Cooking) takes an agreeable, sensible approach. Rather than repeating early recipes, she directs readers to the books in which they appear, and instead of trying to adapt recipes for dishes that would be patently impossible to re-create here, she simply describes such delicacies as Cretan "Scarf" Pies, filled with an elaborate collection of wild greens, in appealing sidebars. Nevertheless, there are plenty of challenges and specialties, e.g., Honeycomb Tripe Stew with Celery, Parsley, and Sardo Cheese and Homemade Cretan Rustic Pasta with goat's milk and skinned wheat. Young Mustard Greens with Pomegranate Molasses is a simple dish?for readers who can get their hands on pomegranate molasses. Wolfert can always be counted on to deliver some real discoveries: The Monk's Pizza with Pan-Seared Cabbage, made with a yeastless dough; Black Sea-Style Chard Bundles Filled with Veal, Toasted Corn Kernels, and Fresh Mint; and Bran-Crusted Barbecued Whole Fish with Chard Stem Tahini Sauce. Wolfert's expertise lies in linking the various Mediterranean cuisines, as in the highly informative mini-essays on rough-hewn pastas such as fregula, couscous, miftool and mhamma, and on Spanish rice dishes that accompany recipes like Tunisian Fish Couscous with Pumpkin and Leafy Greens and Black Rice with Mussels and Shrimp.
Copyright 1998 Reed Business Information, Inc.

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Product Details

• Hardcover: 400 pages
• Publisher: William Morrow Cookbooks; 1 edition (August 26, 1998)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0060172517
• ISBN-13: 978-0060172510
• Product Dimensions: 9.2 x 8.2 x 1.4 inches
• Shipping Weight: 2.2 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.1 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (17 customer reviews)
• Amazon.com Sales Rank: #420,191 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

19 of 20 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Rare Intelligence, Well Told, by a Major Food Writer, December 21, 2003

By	B. Marold "Bruce W. Marold" (Bethlehem, PA United States) - See all my reviews (TOP 50 REVIEWER)    (REAL NAME)

One of my greatest pleasures is to read a book by an author whose reputation has gained my respect even in advance of my having read any of their works. This was certainly the case when I started this book by Paula Wolfert of whom I have been reading for several years. With Elizabeth David and Claudia Roden, she is one of the three great distaff writers of Mediterranean cuisine. This is just appropriate because, as Ms. Wolfert says early in the book, the cuisine of the Mediterranean is the cuisine of women. Even so macho seeming an authority as Mario Batali confirms that most of his recipes he steals from Italian mothers and grandmothers.

This book is a pure delight for foodies to read. The depth of personal research and understanding of the material is palpable. At the same time, Ms. Wolfert exercizes one of the most valuable traits of the knowledge business in that she liberally shares with us the sources of understanding. I have no knowledge of her middle eastern sources, but names like Harold McGee, Shirly Corriher, and Nancy Silverton grace the pages with their contributions to Paula's treatise.

As the subtitle `A Book of Savory, Sun-Drenched Recipes' indicates, this is primarily just that, a book of recipes where the primary ingredient is either a grain or a green or both from a Mediterranean cuisine. But, Paula spends a considerable amount of room on introducing her subjects with valuable information, all of which is helpful and some of which is surprising. Three of my favorite discussions are:

1. Catalogue of greens by taste and by the best way to prepare them. Even books dedicated to the topic of vegetables do not give as good a precis on how to approach leafy green foods as a class. An added attraction is anechotes on episodes where Paula has accompanied people on wild greens collecting excursions.
2. Description of how to make couscous and the debunking of myths about the preparation, lead by the statement that couscous is not a pasta.
3. Essay on Spanish rice dishes grouped under the heading of arroz OTHER THAN the famous paella Valenciana. It is no surprise to learn that a true Spanish arroz must be made with a Spanish rice such as Calasparra, which can absorb up to two and a half times its weight in liquid. The Italian arborio and carnaroli rices will come close, but they are not the real deal.

Another intellectual virtue in this book is that Ms. Wolfert makes a significant effort to not repeat material from her other books, but to refer the reader to them instead. When she does, she specifically quotes the earlier volume.

The chapters in this book are:

A Bowl of Leafy Greens
Bread and Pastries
Soups
Appetizers
Salads
Light Meals
Main Course Dishes
Side Dishes
Sweet Greens and Grains
Sauces, Condiments, and Seasonings
Plus notes on wild edible greens and a generously long mail order sources appendix.

One little serendipitous encounter was when I discovered the John Cope and Company in the list of mail order sources. This was a great surprise, as Cope produces but a single product, the PENNSYLVANIA DUTCH speciality, dried corn! It turns out this is an excellent substitute for toasted corn kernels in a Turkish dish of chard stuffed with veal, corn, and mint. Who knew!

As always, Ms. Wolfert's recipe narratives are highly detailed, giving the reasons for doing each step along the way, and run the fine line between recreating the authentic dish without putting too great a strain on resources available to the typical American chicken.

In thinking about all the things the Food Network has been neglecting to tell me in their programming, it just occurred to me that it would be absolutely delightful to see a short series on major American and British food writers such as Wolfert, Ruth Reichl, Jim Villas, Diana Kennedy, and many more. Just give them 30 minutes to discuss anything they want. I cast that idea on the waters.

This book belongs on the shelf of anyone who is seriously interested in food.

17 of 18 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Great cookbook!, November 8, 1998

By A Customer

I've always loved Wolfert's cookbooks, and this is among her very best. Terrific recipes, impeccable fieldwork, great text, everything one has come to expect from this fine culinary expert. I've cooked four reicpes so far, and expect to cook my way through it over the coming months. Highly recommended!

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars This is a keeper, June 27, 2001

By	jumpy1 (New York, NY) - See all my reviews (TOP 1000 REVIEWER)

I've never had a Paula Wolfert cookbook before. I used this at someone's home last year and bought it immediately. The grilled asparagus is so good I can't believe it hasn't been published before! The recipes are simple and delicious, as is mediterranean cuisine. If you think you don't have access to some of the more exotic grains and greens, it might be worth trying to find them, just to use this book. She really knows a lot about so many ingredients! Very well done.