Amazon.com Review
Naples gave the world pizza and spaghetti with tomato sauce. In
Naples at Table, Arthur Schwartz reveals the unexpected breadth and depth of dishes to be enjoyed in Naples and throughout Campania, the rich region where this culinarily underappreciated city is located.
Campania is the home of mozzarella. In fact, by Italian law, only cheese made from the milk of the water buffalo of Campania should be bear this name; the cow's-milk cheese we call mozzarella is more rightly called fior di latte, "flower of the milk."
To most people, southern Italy is the land of red sauce, from the light salsa insalata, made with raw tomatoes marinated in olive oil and seasoned with salt and basil, to hefty, long-simmered, meat-flavored ragu. Schwartz introduces us to La Genovese, an onion-based sauce Neapolitans began making centuries before the tomato arrived from the New World so they could pair it with its soul mate, pasta.
Anyone interested in Italian food will find the more than 250 recipes and the almost overwhelming wealth of information in Naples at Table fascinating. There is history, going back to the ancient Greeks, and stories as only Schwartz can recount them. One of the best is how Zuppa Inglese may have gotten its name. Discover Woodman-Style Baked Pasta with Meat Sauce and Mushrooms; lusty Baccalà "Arrecanato," a casserole of salt cod and potatoes; an authentic Zuppa Inglese; and so much more as you travel around Campania with Schwartz, meeting chefs and home cooks from Naples and Salerno, Benevento up in the mountains, out along the Amalfi coast, and the jewel-like islands of Ischia and Capri. --Dana Jacobi
From Publishers Weekly
Radio personality Schwartz (Soup Suppers) brings to the kitchen the food and culture of Campania in yet another close look at the food of an Italian region. CampaniaAand in particular its capital, NaplesAis known for an earthy cooking style. It is also the birthplace of both spaghetti and pizza, which are amply represented here in Spaghetti with Cabbage, Spaghetti in a Hurry (Spaghetti Sciu? Sciu? alla Caprese), Pizza di Scarola (made with escarole, olives, pine nuts and raisins) and the traditional Pizza Margherita (tomatoes, mozzarella and basil). Dishes like Rosa Mazzella's Fritters with Salt Cod, Olives, and Capers, and Battered and Fried Cheese evidence a local love of frying. Stretching meat appears to be a specialty of the area, where dishes such as Veal Meatballs in Eggplant Scarves and Neapolitan Meatloaf (made with prosciutto, soppressata, provolone and pecorino cheese) take precedence over whole pieces of beef. Anecdotes and bits of history like the segment on buffalo mozzarella are entertaining, and the enjoyment continues with a chapter on desserts and extras, which includes the unusual Eggplant with Chocolate and Limoncello, the lemon liqueur made famous on the island of Capri.
Copyright 1998 Reed Business Information, Inc.