Amazon.com
First opened in 1895, Delmonico Restaurant and Bar in New Orleans was a Creole cooking landmark. Acquired by celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse in 1995, the new Delmonico's features classic dishes as well as Lagasse's riffs on traditional fare. Emeril's Delmonico offers 130-plus recipes from the restaurant--favorite dishes like St. Paul's Seafood Gumbo, Shrimp Remoulade, and Chicken Rocambeau (prepared with marchand du vin
and hollandaise sauces), and "newer" fare such as Chorizo and Manchego Cheese Omelet, and Lump Crabmeat and Brie Strudels with Herbsaint Cream Glaze. This is, for the most part, rich, saucy cooking that requires a commitment of time--and in many cases, ready cash--to accomplish. Though the recipes aren't difficult, many entail multiple preparations (as well as Lagasse-brand products) to complete, and are probably best reserved for weekend cooking and eating. With an attractive section on desserts that includes Velvet Chocolate Tort with Clear Orange Caramel Sauce and Delmonico's famed baked Alaska (as well as a crème brûlée recipe that directs cooks to partially burn its sugar glaze--diners beware!), color photos, and sections on drinks and brunch dishes, the book will appeal to Lagasse fans who want either to fantasize about the master's cooking, or give themselves a kitchen workout. Those interested in Creole cooking, one of America's great inventions, should also take a look.
--Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
Delmonico, in New Orleans' lower French Quarter, is a vital part of the city's gustatory past: for 100 years, devoted regulars have been served lovingly prepared Creole food and cocktails. In 1997, [...] Food Network star Lagasse bought and remodeled the place, offering a menu drawing from the restaurant's history and using the chef's signature innovative methods to, well, kick things up. Absinthe is prominent in the cocktails section, and oysters play a leading role in the "Down by the River" chapter. Soups, salads, entrees and brunch fare vary from simple (Creamy Carrot & Apple Soup) to complex (Hickory Roasted Duck with White Cheddar Grits, Collard Greens, and Dried Cherry Cane Syrup Reduction); desserts show similar range, from crepes and puddings to Delmonico Fluff (a chocolate sundae). Purists will be delighted to find recipes for hamburger buns and mayonnaise; Lagasse also includes directions on stove-top duck smoking and even hard-boiling an egg. He pays tribute to the restaurant's former owners and staff in the book's dedication as well as in its color photos of old menus and other mementos. This is a nice melding of ideas and food present and past, classic and new.
(On sale Oct. 4) Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
See all Editorial Reviews