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A Fez of the Heart: Travels around Turkey in Search of a Hat
 
 
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A Fez of the Heart: Travels around Turkey in Search of a Hat (Paperback)

~ (Author) "It was January 1993 when a kindly but disbelieving Turk in an ill-fitting suit and a homburg approached me as our flight was called at..." (more)
Key Phrases: fez wearers, fez maker, fez factory, Erdogan Bey, Haci Baba, Black Sea (more...)
2.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (30 customer reviews)

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A Fez of the Heart: Travels around Turkey in Search of a Hat + Turkish Reflections: A Biography of a Place + Istanbul: Memories and the City
Price For All Three: $35.30

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  • This item: A Fez of the Heart: Travels around Turkey in Search of a Hat by Jeremy Seal

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Editorial Reviews

Amazon.com Review

Upon the orders of Kemal Ataturk, the fez replaced the turban as Turkey's national headdress. Outlawed completely in 1925, the turban is viewed as a symbol of Turkish backwardness. While living and teaching in Turkey for several years, Jeremy Seals developed an obsession for the fez, a hat he believes has come to symbolize the soul of the country. Through interviews with villagers and historical essays, Seals chronicles his journey through Turkey, to areas both metropolitan and remote, to find the heart of the country as embodied by its national head gear.


From Publishers Weekly

What is more Turkish than the fez? Almost anything, as it turns out. Just two years after Turkey was officially proclaimed a republic in 1923, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk outlawed the fez. For Ataturk, the maroon felt headgear foisted on Turkey's turbaned Ottoman precursors by a similarly reform-minded ruler, Mahmud II, just 100 years earlier, symbolized Turkey's backwardness?unlike the European hats Ataturk himself favored. It's not taking anything away from the book to say that first-time author Seal, after traipsing through Ankara, Istanbul, Cappadocia and many much more obscure Turkish towns (as well as the Moroccan city of Fez), doesn't discover the origins of the fez. But aided by fluent Turkish (it fails him once when he believes a host has invited him to hunt Kurds, only to discover that the game is kurts, or wolves) and wry sensibility, he does offer both an engaging, often very funny travelogue and real insights into Turkey's troubled balancing act between modernity and tradition, between Europe and Islam. For those who were surprised by the plurality gained by Turkey's pro-Islamic Refah (or Welfare) Party in the most recent elections, Seal's book shows that we could all learn a lot from a hat.
Copyright 1996 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 352 pages
  • Publisher: Mariner Books; 1 edition (March 28, 1996)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0156003937
  • ISBN-13: 978-0156003933
  • Product Dimensions: 7.8 x 5.3 x 1 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 12.8 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Average Customer Review: 2.9 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (30 customer reviews)
  • Amazon.com Sales Rank: #504,743 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

    Popular in this category: (What's this?)

    #71 in  Books > Travel > Asia > Turkey

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Customer Reviews

30 Reviews
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Average Customer Review
2.9 out of 5 stars (30 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews

 
64 of 70 people found the following review helpful:
1.0 out of 5 stars Watch out - this book has a hidden agenda., October 1, 2000
By A Customer
Venomously biased, full of distortions, mis-translation, and
mis-quoted sources. Unless you already know a lot about Turkey and
the Turkish language, stay away from this one. This book is a
deliberate attempt to mislead. It disguises a deep-rooted contempt of
Turkish culture and Turkish people behind a thin veneer of poisonous
jokes. Its mean-spirited political agenda is never stated clearly
- never out in the open, where the average reader might have enough
information to argue with Seal's reasoning. Instead, the bias sticks
like mud between the lines. This is an exercise in classic yellow
journalism, communicating emotional bias in place of facts and reason.

Seal quotes sources out of context for the specific purpose of
obscuring or reversing the original author's intent. For example, a
reference to the classic travel account, "On Horseback Through Asia
Minor," by Capt. Frederick Burnaby, directly reverses the
explicitly stated position of Burnaby. In 1876 Burnaby traveled
through Turkey to investigate the rumors of Turkish atrocities which
were current in Europe at that time. Burnaby found NO evidence to
support those rumors - instead, he was impressed with the fairness
of Turkish treatment of the Armenians, and he was unimpressed with the
cleanliness of the Armenians. Seal, the rumor-monger for a new age,
takes one line of Burnaby out of context, and uses it to support his
contention that the Turkish people are racist and unfair to Armenians
and Kurds - and always have been. I only happened to catch this
because I had just finished reading Burnaby myself - but it calls
into question the honesty of all Seal's other references. Be warned
that if you read this book, you will need to check every reference for
accuracy and context.

I have lived five years in Turkey as a
foreigner, and I speak Turkish - better than Seal, apparently. I
can attest that Seal's attempt to portray the Turkish people as racist
or ethnocentric is grossly unfair.

Seal claims to be fluent in
Turkish, but his writing is filled with mis-translations and
distortions. For example, he goes far out of his way, to a remote
village, looking for the most reactionary backwaters of Turkish
culture. During this excursion, he claims to be communicating with
his guide entirely in Turkish (unlikely). The guide, a man from
Istanbul (who almost certainly speaks good English) brings two
shotguns, to shoot "Kurds." In Turkish, the word for Kurdish
sounds very like the word for `wolf' - especially to foreign
ears. So of course the shotguns are for wolves. For an very
inexperienced Turkish speaker, it might be possible to make this
mistake, on first hearing, but for the misunderstanding to continue he
must be willing to believe the worst - that an educated man from
Istanbul might go out shooting Kurds in the country on the weekend.
Seal allows his "joke" to go on for almost four pages, and even
then does not clearly explain his mistake, thus leaving a residue of
suspicion, distrust, and ill-will.

He makes a routine practice of
changing the names of Turkish towns - improvising mis-translations
and using those in place of the honorable old names. He calls the
town of Gaziantep `Warrior Pistachio' - just to be funny. But,
while Gazi does mean something which might be translated as warrior,
Antep does NOT mean pistachio. Many pistachio's are called `Antep'
because that is where they come from, just as we might talk about
Washington apples, or Florida oranges. He calls a village hospital
`Blackberry General,' when in fact the name of the town does not
mean Blackberry, and the direct translation of "Hastanesi" is
simply `Hospital,' NOT `General.'

Seal says you have to be
suspicious of any language which does not have its own word for sex.
As always, his jokes are all at the expense of Turkey, always laughing
AT his subject. But consider this: how good can Seal's Turkish really
be if he doesn't even know any words for `sex?' There are probably
as many words in Turkish as in English. (I don't know exactly - I
haven't counted.)

Seal definitely has some political/racial axes
to grind (especially with regard to the Kurds) but, beyond that, what
he really seems to want most is for Turkey to devolve back a hundred
years, to return to the bad old days of the declining Ottoman Empire.
In this light, he resents and ridicules every advance the Republic of
Turkey has made in the direction of modernization, and he mocks
Ataturk - whose reforms prevent him from being able to effectively
look down his disdainfully Imperialist nose, and thereby consider
himself a real adventurer.

Seal travels around Turkey asking about
fezzes and Sultans, and congratulating himself on how he has struck a
nerve. He thinks upsetting people is a point for his side, but the
reality is that some of his questions and presumptions are as
inappropriate and offensive as a foreign tourist traveling around the
American South hoping to photograph smiling African-Americans picking
cotton by hand. If that same foreigner also interviewed KKK members
and visited the Arian Nation (while ridiculing all other views), and
then wrote about his experiences as the "REAL" America, what
would we think of that? That's what Seal has done with Turkey.

He
clearly despises his subject. Seal has carefully constructed an
emotionally charged image of Turkey as a country which usurps power,
and has no right even to exist. To this end, he painstakingly seeks
out all the lunatics, fundamentalists, and reactionaries, and points
out every Turkish transgression he can find, whether factually
grounded or not. If you have lived in Turkey, speak Turkish, and have
done some reading, you may want to read this for the purposes of
argument. Otherwise steer clear.

The best contemporary Turkish
travel book I know is sadly out of print, but you might find it [online]: "Journey to Kars," by Phillip Glazebrook. If you
can't find that, Mary Lee Settle's "Turkish Reflections" is also
very informative, and well researched.



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18 of 20 people found the following review helpful:
1.0 out of 5 stars Misguided History, January 5, 2003
By Reed Adam (Istanbul, Turkey) - See all my reviews
Although this book is humorous and informative at times, I had to stop reading it midway through because I found it to be offensive. I have been living in Istanbul for four months, and although I have not seen as much of Turkey as Jeremy Seal, I have been studying the Turkish language and culture. I am regularly a student at Stanford University, but this year I am studying at Boðaziçi Universitesi in Istanbul.

There is one particular instance from this book that I would like to draw attention to. While travelling in Turkey, the author visits Cappadocia, where he meets a caretaker for one of the Byzantine churches. He then goes into an anectode about how Islam-which forbids pictoral depictions in art-was responsible for destroying some of that regions spectacular Byzantine church art. Although I am not a scholar on Byzantine history, I know that during the 8th Century, a movement called iconoclasm was supported and endorsed by a few of the Byzantine emporers. This movement called for the abolition of pictoral depiction in chuch art, and led to the destruction of many fine works in Cappadocia. Seal puts the blame for the destruction of Byzantine Christian art squarely on Turkish Muslims, and uses it as a vehicle again to criticize Turkish people and their religion. Although I too am critical of Turkey and the Islamic religion, I see Seal as manupulating historical facts in order to create an impression of Turks and Muslims as intolerant and destructive. As I read A Fez of the Heart, I quickly became tired because of its one-sided hackneyed message about fundamentalist Islam and its inherently negative attitude towards Turkish culture and society. Be careful when reading this book and do not take the historical facts that Seal presents as the truth. It does not give justice to the complex issues in modern Turkey and both the richness and the problems of the Turkish nation.

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18 of 21 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars Fun to read while in country, December 12, 1999
By MBH (Herndon, VA USA) - See all my reviews
Whether or not to read this book shold be determined by the type of information you are pursuing. When I travel around a country (and my wife and I have spent about 1 month traveling around Turkey) I like to do so with at least three books: 1. a good travel guide (in our case we use only the Lonely Planet guides, they are the bible for travelers), 2. a good comprehensive history and 3. a good lighthearted read of the people, history, culture, etc.

'A Fez of the Heart' falls into the latter. It is a very enjoyable book about the travels of an young man returning to Turkey and getting educated in its recent (post WWI) history. The education is comical and caused both my wife and I to laugh out loud. The plot pertaining to seeking out anything to do with a fez is a clever cover to explain the author's presence and wanderings.

This book should not be read as a cultural barometer nor a factual history of Turkey. It is a pleasant and humorous read that left me with the desire to get to better undersand elements of Turkey's recent past.

If that is what you are looking for you will not do any better than 'A Fez of the Heart'.

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Most Recent Customer Reviews

2.0 out of 5 stars Mixed feelings
I experienced a variety of emotions while reading this surprising book. My original enthusiasm and amusement soon gave way to startled dismay. Read more
Published 20 months ago by Heather C. Ozaltun

3.0 out of 5 stars An outsider's view
I read through the reviews of this book, and must agree that some historical interpretations (and even some facts) appear to be misguided. Read more
Published on February 27, 2007 by N. Koru

2.0 out of 5 stars Warrior Pistachio
In this book Mr. Seal carries on the time-honored tradition of British travel writing by depicting the natives as primitive but hospitable and sometimes friendly monkeys. Read more
Published on February 3, 2007 by Mr. Yuksel Gunal

5.0 out of 5 stars A Fez of the Heart
This book really gives the reader the feel of modern Turkey written in a very readable format. Having just been in Turkey in April, this book increased my insight into this... Read more
Published on November 11, 2006 by Sally J. Lash

1.0 out of 5 stars misleading
Brits are much more tolerable when they are making fun of themselves. When I finished reading this book, I felt that the author's main objective was to make fun of Turkish people... Read more
Published on May 23, 2006 by pepper

5.0 out of 5 stars Insanely good
Brilliant concept into trying to understand Turkey's bizarre obsession with headgear. And a great pretext into delving into the culture itself. Read more
Published on January 21, 2005 by Brian Maitland

1.0 out of 5 stars disappointing...
I found this book to be boring. I kept hoping for it to get more interesting, have more color, more humor, more detail, but it just didn't happen for me. Read more
Published on January 22, 2004

5.0 out of 5 stars For anyone who's ever wondered where the fez went...
Ironically I went to Turkiye about the same time jeremy was publishing this book, and ironically I went in search of a real fez..... Read more
Published on November 3, 2003 by D. Klevorn

4.0 out of 5 stars Confession
I have to confess that I enjoyed the book. that's a confession because I can understand how it must offend many Turks. Read more
Published on October 4, 2003 by D. P. Birkett

2.0 out of 5 stars Brits are funnier when they are making fun of other Brits
(...). This is just another book that is quick to offer scathing and exagerated reprobation veiled in cheap British humor by highlighting individuals' quirks. Read more
Published on February 28, 2003 by A reader

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