Amazon.com Review
Will America's appetite for all things under the Tuscan sun ever be satisfied? Not likely with Pino Luongo's
Simply Tuscan. Luongo, owner of 10 restaurants and Manhattan's market Tuscan Square, may have spent the past 20 years in the Big Apple, but he is still synchronized to life in the Tuscan countryside.
Simply Tuscan honors those rhythms with its seasonal organization and easy mix of food lore, travelogue, and personal reminiscences. Luongo opens with spring (though fall is his favorite season for cooking); in this section, the Italian passion for simplicity--which Luongo constantly endorses--achieves quintessential form in a mache salad topped with quail eggs. The fall section is studded with such treasures as a trio of recipes showcasing the revered
tartufo bianco, or white truffle. All the reader really need remember, though, is Luongo's offhand remark on his favorite way of enjoying this delicacy: shaved over fried eggs.
Simply Tuscan speaks to cooks of all abilities. The pared-down arrangements of summer and spring will yield memorable results for less-confident cooks who take care to use only the most immaculate and best ingredients. More familiar hands will welcome the savory complexities of the fall and winter menus. Professional cooks will want the book for its bomboloni recipe alone. A favorite from Luongo's childhood, this sweet fritter is used to evaluate potential pastry chefs for his restaurants. If you can't make bomboloni, you'll never cook for Pino.
--Sumi Hahn Almquist
From Publishers Weekly
Weaving poetry, culinary commentary and childhood reminiscences about his native Tuscany into this winsome collection of recipes, restaurateur Luongo (Fish Talking; A Tuscan in the Kitchen) introduces traditional Tuscan cuisine with thematic flourish. Chapters are organized by season, setting the stage for menus that include seasonal holidays and special occasions. For example, spring menus highlight "Easter Lunch and Easter Dinner" as well as the "First Dinner with the In-Laws," while autumn features "Fall's First Truffle Dinner" and "A Tuscan Thanksgiving Dinner." Throughout, Luongo proffers anecdotes and a Tuscan worldview: on summer entertaining, "Think of it as having a date with nature"; on men cooking: "If a man can't cook in Tuscany, he has something to be ashamed of." Devoid of elaborate explanations, recipes are refreshingly straightforward, taking a matter-of-fact approach to cooking. The traditional preparations emphasize handmade pastas and a prolific use of indigenous ingredients, including chestnuts, truffles, herbs, butter and various Italian cheeses. Dishes range from simple--Lamb Stew with Artichokes, Fusilli Salad with Swordfish and Grapefruit, Watermelon Granita--to such involved and elaborate recipes as Ravioli Filled with Pappa al Pomodoro (a tomato sauce) and Black Cabbage, and Sweet and Sour Boar with Chestnut Gnocchi. Luongo will charm readers into incorporating a bit of Tuscany into their workaday life.
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.