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8 of 9 people found the following review helpful:
4.0 out of 5 stars
Nice exposition on the history and process of winemaking, October 30, 2003
Philip Wagner's death in 1997 was a loss to the winemaking community. Wagner lived through a broad period of wine history. His significant life experience spans prohibition through an illustrious life as a successful commercial winemaker. Wagner practiced what he preached. His life honors a love for the grape and the art of turning grapes into wine.His book, "Grapes into Wine," chronicles the history of winemaking told from the perspective of one who knows the subject. This book is not a step-by-step guide towards the process of making a fine wine; it's an exposition on the history and high-level science of grapes and grape growing (viticulture) and the cultivation of grapes, and the manufacture of wine (viniculture). Wagner explains the origins of winemaking, from its earliest documented sources to the present. He describes the early French winemaking period, the effects of phylloxera and other diseases that practically wiped-out this industry, the emergence of east and west coast American wine making, prohibition, and winemaking in the modern world. He then delves into the process of winemaking, both commercially and in small lots. Sugar and bacterial (malolactic) fermentation are described historically and as a modern process. He discusses the entire process of winemaking, from pitching the yeast, to racking, cold stabilizing, fining, and finally bottling. Common pitfalls are cited with a description of how these problems are addressed on a small and large scale. Different wine types are discussed, including dry, sparkling, fortified, and sweet. The book ends with a brief discussion about wine tasting. A number of Appendices are also included as are numerous pictures that give a glimpse into historical periods, people, tools and machinery, and places. While Wagner describes the winemaking process in some detail, it's not written as a guide towards making wine. For this, I'd suggest Jon Iverson's book, "Home Winemaking Step-by-Step." Iverson takes amateur winemakers by the hand and guides them through the necessary steps towards the creation of a finished table wine. Wagner's book describes this process topically, touching on the details but not describing them in a step-by-step fashion. The cover of this book states, "A newly written, completely up-to-date version of his now-classic American Wines and Wine-making, with new maps, charts, and illustrations." I think this was true at one time, but from my perspective in 2003, this book more closely reflects the 1976 revision. For example, p.64 shows a chart of California wine production from 1956 to 1973 in millions of gallons. Yet on the p.67 a 1982 note references how production has increased in 1980. It seems this note was inserted to make it more current while the preceding text was left untouched. I would rather have seen the chart updated to include wine production into the 1980s or 1990s rather than end in 1973. Eliminate the note and update the text and graphic. Much of the book is from the perspective of 1976. This aside, Wagner's book is a superbly valuable text. I don't mean to give the impression it is sorely outdated; it's not outdated in a way that degrades the value of what he has written. Wagner has documented a snapshot of history and I have enjoyed the book immensely. Many chapters I've read numerous times. I especially enjoy the chapters on the history of viniculture and viticulture. Wagner is gifted in his historical knowledge and I think these beginning chapters are the book's crowning achievement. Highly recommended, I only wish Wagner was alive to provide an update that includes a look into the 21st Century.
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by Jon Iverson
by Philip M. Wagner
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