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The egg is back. Stigmatized in the '70s and '80s for its "artery clogging" high cholesterol content (doctors now agree there's no link between food cholesterol and blood cholesterol levels), and more recently avoided as a potential source of salmonella (simple precautions can obviate danger), the egg has returned triumphant. Celebrating this happy state is Marie Simmons's
The Good Egg, a collection of more than 200 easy recipes that showcase the egg in dishes from soup to dessert. Those who love this simple, delicious food will find the book a boon. In chapters such as "Artfully Scrambled and Fried," "Broths," "Stews and Braises," "Pasta and Eggs," and "Cookies, Cakes, Pies, and Tarts," Simmons presents a full range of satisfying egg dishes, many meals in themselves. There are classics, such as spaghetti carbonara, Caesar salad, omelets, and crème brûlée, as well as unfamiliar yet welcome specialties like Creamy Scrambled Eggs with Curry and Cardamom, Eggs Baked on Salmon Hash with Dill and Orange, and Fresh Pasta with Poached Eggs, Toasted Walnuts, and Parmesan. Desserts are well represented, and treats such as Coconut Macaroon Bread Pudding with Dried Cherries and Spiced Sponge Roll with Maple Cream Filling and Walnut Praline should provide enticing meal finales. With instructive sidebars and preparation tips ("Strata Strategies," for example, provides a detailed battle plan for strata success), the book offers an up-to-date and long-overdue exploration of this most versatile food.
--Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
Pity the poor egg--in these cholesterol-conscious times it has fallen from grace. Simmons (a James Beard Award winner and Bon App?tit columnist) makes a valiant effort to rehabilitate the versatile ovum in this wide-ranging collection of recipes. Simmons provides a brief introduction (including a piece that explains that eggs are high in cholesterol but low in saturated fat, which is the substance that actually raises blood cholesterol in humans), but the bulk of this book consists of recipes for dishes satisfying yet simple enough to serve as last-minute suppers. A chapter on scrambled and fried eggs offers the basics, as well as variations such as Creamy Scrambled Eggs with Curry and Cardamom. Another focuses on omelets, moving from the Basic Omelette to predictable combinations, including a Feta, Spinach and Tomato Omelette, then on to the more adventurous Egg Fu Yung. It would have been easy enough to include almost anything in this cookbook, but Simmons stays true to her theme, including only dishes that feature eggs front and center, such as Carter House Potato "Risotto" with Poached Eggs (made by cutting the potatoes into small cubes and cooking them as one would a risotto) and Anna Teresa's Sensational Fried Stuffed Eggs, in which hard-cooked eggs are opened, stuffed with b?chamel, then reassembled and fried. An entire chapter on egg salads brims with innovation, and desserts such as Earl Grey Cr?me Br?l?e and Strawberry Jam Bread Pudding with Almond Streusel Topping are a treat. Simmons may not fully restore the egg to its previous status, but she's made a convincing start. (May)
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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