Amazon.com Review
Rooted in the cuisines of North America, Europe, and Africa, Southern cooking is delicious, classic fare. But according to
Damon Lee Fowler's New Southern Cooking, traditional dishes like fried chicken, gumbo, cornbread, and pecan pie aren't the whole story. Stating that Southern cooking as such makes sense only if we recognize it as the result of multiple interpretations over time, Fowler presents his versions of traditional dishes that also take into account today's busy, health-conscious world. His recipe for Grilled Pork Tenderloins with Bourbon Mustard Glaze, for example, honors the Southern passion for pork, but uses a lean cut of meat. The result of Fowler's approach is 160 easily made recipes that salute the old and the new delectably.
In chapters that cover every course from appetizers and snacks to breads and desserts, Fowler finds innovative ways with quintessential Southern ingredients, offering the likes of Baked Pecan-Crusted Goat Cheese with Warm Peach Chutney, Green Tomato Gumbo, and even Sweet Potato Latkes with Homemade Applesauce and Crème Fraîche. He also offers polished examples of traditional fare, including Grilled Breaded Veal Chops, Scalloped Eggplant a la Creole, and, of course, Buttermilk Fried Chicken (touched unconventionally with garlic). Bread lovers will dote on Fowler's Cinnamon Pecan Drop Biscuits, while fans of dessert should swoon for the likes of Maryan's Chocolate Pound Cake, Lemon Pecan Pie, and Shortbread Banana Pudding. With menus and a useful list of ingredient sources, the book is an exciting addition to the Southern cookbook shelf. --Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
Resolutely unsplashy, Fowler (Classical Southern Cooking) is the anti-Emeril. Roasted Pecans at first seem ho-hum, but these aren't any roasted pecans: they represent the South, "a tangle of earth and refinement," and introduce a quintet of pecan-themed appetizers. The classics Buttermilk Fried Chicken, two Gumbos, Grits and Croquettes are lovingly explained, and sidebars and introductions describe everything from rendering lard to peeling tomatoes. Savannah Cutlets may seem nouveau (they use bourbon as well as parmesan cheese), but Fowler, who tempers innovation with historical background, points out parmesan has been imported to Georgia since the 18th century. Cucumber Buttermilk Soup nods to Greek influence, while Sweet Potato Latkes show Jewish flavor. The chapter on eggs is worth the price alone Fowler explains how to poach quantities of eggs without elaborate equipment. While bacon and ham appear regularly, for example in Broiled Snapper with Bacon, vegetables are often main courses, such as Scalloped Eggplant a la Creole. Seafood, such as Shrimp in Savannah Sweet Red Pepper Sauce and Lowcountry Crab au Gratin, is well represented. The dessert chapter, while short, has Bourbon Pound Cake, Lillie's Little Lemon Puddings and Gingered Peaches. Fowler's enthusiasm and thorough explanations make this book a must for anyone who loves Southern cuisine.
Copyright 2002 Cahners Business Information, Inc.