Review
" All About Ices offers the food historian valuable information about the practices, equipment, techniques, and ingredients of the time as well as hundreds of recipes." -- Gastronomica
Product Description
The growing concern about the importance of pure and proper ingredients in ice cream and the rediscovery of the joys of jellies and gelatin desserts of all kinds has prompted the reissue of this rare classic text. Written by the authors specifically to remind readers of the unique and inimitable delights that are only to be achieved by using fresh fruits and juices, syrups, liqueurs, and creams, it shows what a delicious variety of iced treats were once widely available -and can still be made quickly and easily today. The books begins with an exceptional selection of "water ices" as sorbets were once known -lime, tangerine, apple, mille fleur, pistachio, white raspberry, muscat, and many more. Sorbets are increasingly popular, both for their clear taste and the fact that they are fat free. Then comes a section on granitas of a very sophisticated kind -roman punch, rum punch, and a sensational dry sherry granita. Section II starts wth cream ices of both kinds -those that use cream and those that have a custard base. Among the enticements on offer are raspberry and red currant ice cream, green tea ice cream, and a luscious almond praline cream ice. Iced souffles come next including caramel and the aptly-named souffle des anges, a heavenly confection of maraschino and orange-flower. Bombes feature next, with instructions on how to prepare such forgotten delights as Pompadour Bombe (coffee cream, strawberry cream, lemon water ice, tangerine water ice) and the irresistible Harlequin Bombe (green chartreuse cream and orange water ice). From the cold charms of ices the book moves on to the cool blandishments of jelly. The maraschino, cassis, and rose jellies, elegant vanilla and coffee jellies, and wonderful fresh fruit jellies to while the summer away -grape, cherry, peach, apricot, and white currant. Next come the jellied creams, justly beloved by the Victorians: succulent nectarine cream, cantaloupe melon cream, mirabel cream, mulberry cream, greengage cream, and many more. Then come the liqueur creams: chartreuse both green and yellow, pink maraschino cream, chestnut and caramel creams perfect for winter, and regal Victoria cream studded with jewel-like glace fruits. The book continues with a section on jams, preserves, and compotes, concluding with a section on wine cups and fruit beverages including refreshing cherryade, mille fruitade, and the ravishing Chianti cup -a holiday in a glass. Full directions are given for all recipes, and there is a detailed index. Affordable home ice cream making machines are now widely available, and for the creams and jellies no equipment is required except for a fridge. So buy this book and rediscover the lost world of ices, jellies, and creams.
