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Editorial Reviews
Amazon.com
What did cowboys eat on the range? It's doubtful their "chuck" much resembled the lively fare offered by restaurateur Tom Perini in Texas Cowboy Cooking, a collection of 75 recipes from the Perini Ranch Steakhouse. That said, the dishes, which include the likes of Black Bean and Roasted Corn Salad, Oven Roasted Beef Brisket, and Jessica's Favorite Green Chili Hominy, are just the thing when the call of meat and Tex-Mex seasoning can't be denied. Illustrated with color photos throughout, the book provides a big-food journey, noting en route the Texas lore that gives it context. Most readers will probably pass on the Calf Fries, a local delicacy the author hardly admits are made from beef testicles. But when Perini talks steak--offering useful cut information and such tempting dishes as a Spicy Beef Tenderloin with Roasted Garlic-Horseradish Cream, Round Steak Rolls, and Laredo Broil, a superior version of marinated flank steak--you'll want to pay attention. Other standouts include an exemplary Texas Chili, Winter Squash Soup, Grilled Sourdough with Texas Onion Butter (a recipe for the bread is included), Carrots with Bourbon Sauce, and the fancier Celebration Venison with Ginger and Wine. Desserts aren't neglected, and simple sweets like Grandmother's Pound Cake, Jane's Sweet Potato-Pecan Pie, and Bread Pudding with Whisky Sauce should put a happy end to whatever appetite is left after a massive Perini spread. With a short but interesting section on cowboy life and informative sidebars (such as Aging Beef), the book provides easily made, easily enjoyed food for millennial buckeroos everywhere. --Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
In case the title alone isn't enough to identify this meaty collection as a seriously macho undertaking, there is a foreword by Robert Duvall and a cameo hamburger recipe from Fess Parker, TV's own Davy Crockett. Perini, born and raised a gourmet, knows all there is to know about chuck-wagon cuisine, and his cooking is simplicity itself. Salt, pepper and a small handful of household herbs and spices carry the weight in several dry rubs concocted to coat a prime rib or beef brisket. Salt pork, garlic and a spoonful of chili powder are all the seasonings needed for a classic kettle of Ranch Beans. Similarly, his Fried Catfish and Chicken Fried Steak want nothing more exotic than an egg and some flour or pepper-seasoned cornmeal. And Perini loves his dairy just as much as his beef. He uses a touch of cream in his hamburger recipe (complementing the quarter-cup of strong coffee in his BBQ sauce) and creates a Roasted Garlic-Horseradish Cream that is one part horseradish to eight parts heavy cream. A good dose of ranching history and plenty of pictures of men on their steeds round out the adventure. (Apr.)
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.
See all Editorial Reviews
What did cowboys eat on the range? It's doubtful their "chuck" much resembled the lively fare offered by restaurateur Tom Perini in Texas Cowboy Cooking, a collection of 75 recipes from the Perini Ranch Steakhouse. That said, the dishes, which include the likes of Black Bean and Roasted Corn Salad, Oven Roasted Beef Brisket, and Jessica's Favorite Green Chili Hominy, are just the thing when the call of meat and Tex-Mex seasoning can't be denied. Illustrated with color photos throughout, the book provides a big-food journey, noting en route the Texas lore that gives it context. Most readers will probably pass on the Calf Fries, a local delicacy the author hardly admits are made from beef testicles. But when Perini talks steak--offering useful cut information and such tempting dishes as a Spicy Beef Tenderloin with Roasted Garlic-Horseradish Cream, Round Steak Rolls, and Laredo Broil, a superior version of marinated flank steak--you'll want to pay attention. Other standouts include an exemplary Texas Chili, Winter Squash Soup, Grilled Sourdough with Texas Onion Butter (a recipe for the bread is included), Carrots with Bourbon Sauce, and the fancier Celebration Venison with Ginger and Wine. Desserts aren't neglected, and simple sweets like Grandmother's Pound Cake, Jane's Sweet Potato-Pecan Pie, and Bread Pudding with Whisky Sauce should put a happy end to whatever appetite is left after a massive Perini spread. With a short but interesting section on cowboy life and informative sidebars (such as Aging Beef), the book provides easily made, easily enjoyed food for millennial buckeroos everywhere. --Arthur Boehm
From Publishers Weekly
In case the title alone isn't enough to identify this meaty collection as a seriously macho undertaking, there is a foreword by Robert Duvall and a cameo hamburger recipe from Fess Parker, TV's own Davy Crockett. Perini, born and raised a gourmet, knows all there is to know about chuck-wagon cuisine, and his cooking is simplicity itself. Salt, pepper and a small handful of household herbs and spices carry the weight in several dry rubs concocted to coat a prime rib or beef brisket. Salt pork, garlic and a spoonful of chili powder are all the seasonings needed for a classic kettle of Ranch Beans. Similarly, his Fried Catfish and Chicken Fried Steak want nothing more exotic than an egg and some flour or pepper-seasoned cornmeal. And Perini loves his dairy just as much as his beef. He uses a touch of cream in his hamburger recipe (complementing the quarter-cup of strong coffee in his BBQ sauce) and creates a Roasted Garlic-Horseradish Cream that is one part horseradish to eight parts heavy cream. A good dose of ranching history and plenty of pictures of men on their steeds round out the adventure. (Apr.)
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.
See all Editorial Reviews
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cite this book:
- Both Sides Of The Border: A Texas Folklore Sampler (Publications of the Texas Folklore Society) by Francis Edward Abernethy on page 85, and page 91
- American Regional Cuisine by The Art Institutes in Back Matter