From Publishers Weekly
Starred Review. Cookbook author and food historian Fowler believes "each recipe tells a story." Happily for readers, the author of
Classical Southern Cooking and
New Southern Kitchen is an excellent storyteller. With focused intensity and depth of knowledge, Fowler presents a rich, colorful and amusing overview of Southern baking from historical, cultural and social perspectives. In engaging prose, Damon traces the influences of Southern mamas; African-American domestic workers and cooks; English, German and French settlers; and Native Americans in his introduction, while his chapter openers delve deeper into specifics, distinguishing between, say, soft winter wheat and red summer wheat and the different flours derived from them. Educational and enticing recipes for quick breads, cookies, cakes, pies, pastries and breads include detailed instructions and tips. The stories, appearing mostly in the recipes' head notes, range from personal to technical, detailing, for example, the origins of Mrs. Hill's Crumpets, small, airy, yeast-leavened buns derived from an 1867 cookbook; Pecan Upside-Down Cake, a cross between upside-down cakes (derived from French tarte tatin) and monkey bread (a sweet, pecan-studded biscuit); and the secret to MaMa's moist Coconut Cake (from Fowler's maternal grandmother). This cookbook is a treat, equally satisfying to cook from or to read. Photos.
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From Booklist
This compendium of southern baking will make a welcome addition to any cookbook collection on either side of the Mason-Dixon Line. Fowler has taken great pains to update traditional recipes, paying special attention to the cooking of the Carolina and Georgia coasts. Fowler's learned yet practical introduction carefully distinguishes the basic ingredients that give southern baked goods their uniqueness. His explanations of the art of biscuit making go about as far as possible to unravel biscuits' simple intricacies without having a baker actually at one's elbow. A selection of corn breads includes airy, souffle-like spoon bread. Fowler revives an heirloom recipe for rice bread. His assortment of pound cakes features a bourbon-brown sugar version destined to become a classic. Pies come in both sweet and savory versions, along with several exemplars of indigenous chess pies. That southern staple, the peanut, appears in both cookies and pies. An extensive bibliography cites more than a few community-based cookbooks that date back to the beginning of the twentieth century.
Mark KnoblauchCopyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved
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