From Publishers Weekly
While Spanish, German, Irish, Portuguese, Italian, Chinese and especially Japanese people place Anguillae well above salmon in their cuisines, Americans, by and large, consider eels to be bait. Thus, North American estuaries have the best remaining migratory wild eel populations; that fact provides a good foundation for a light science travelogue shuttling back and forth between eel capitals on both sides of the Atlantic. Schweid (The Cockroach Papers) tries to fill in the gaps in the eel's astonishing natural history and tie that to sketches of fishery traditions, folklore, literary excerpts and reportage (beware the natural history that includes this many ingredients), mostly by focusing on the erratic transatlantic economy that eel supply (here) and demand (there) creates. Schweid visits five of the traditional eeling waters in Europe, but mostly he's concerned with recording the yarns of North Carolina's Outer Banks eel-fishing culture, where small-scale U.S. "eelers" operating inshore catch and ship tons of wriggling eels to Europe and Japan. Schweid is searching hard for a handle on his slimy, reclusive subject, but even science is not much help: the migratory Atlantic genus has been so resistant to study that even strong commercial imperatives (immature eels have fetched $500 a pound) have not yielded a true eel aquaculture. An overview of such an enigmatic creature that ranges over a huge ocean and inshore ecology is all that can be expected from this slim book; still, anyone with a curiosity about the sea will find Schweid's taste of the eel strangely appealing.
Copyright 2002 Cahners Business Information, Inc.
From Library Journal
A coveted food in Japan and a readily consumed item in Europe, the eel has all but disappeared from American tables in homes and restaurants. Yet it is still fished here and sold to Europeans and Japanese. Journalist Schweid (Catfish and the Delta) helps us realize what a strange and fascinating little fish the eel is. It breeds in the Sargasso Sea, a stretch of Atlantic waters between Bermuda and the Azores; the young then migrate to freshwater creeks and rivers, where they may live for years before migrating back to the Sargasso Sea to mate. This migration pattern, the opposite of that of salmon, is shared only with the mullet, and how eels navigate the distances remains a mystery. They are picky eaters, have a sense of smell equal to that of dogs, and appear to be a barometer of pollution levels in water systems. In addition, eels are the only farmed fish that we have been unsuccessful in coaxing to reproduce in captivity. Schweid writes with clarity and enthusiasm, combining elementary biology with recipes from England, Europe, and America, historical notes on fishing and cooking, and present-day interviews with fishers and others. Unlike Mark Kurlansky's expansive Cod, this title's narrow scope (it reads like an extended magazine article) limits its appeal to large public libraries and fishery collections. Michael D. Cramer, Schwarz BioSciences, Research Triangle Park, NC
Copyright 2002 Cahners Business Information, Inc.
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