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Performance Rock Climbing (Paperback)

~ (Author), Udo Neumann (Author) "So many different factors contribute to your climbing performance..." (more)
Key Phrases: engram control, aerobic energy restoration, local endurance training, Dale Goddard, World Championships, Behavioral Approaches (more...)
4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (12 customer reviews)

List Price: $19.95
Price: $13.57 & eligible for FREE Super Saver Shipping on orders over $25. Details
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Frequently Bought Together

Performance Rock Climbing + How to Climb 5.12, 2nd (How To Climb Series) + The Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement Training Performance
Price For All Three: $46.81

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  • This item: Performance Rock Climbing by Dale Goddard

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  • How to Climb 5.12, 2nd (How To Climb Series) by Eric J. Horst

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  • The Self-Coached Climber: The Guide to Movement Training Performance by Dan M. Hague

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Editorial Reviews

Product Description

A handbook for experienced climbers covering all the physical and psychological aspects of climbing.

Product Details

  • Paperback: 208 pages
  • Publisher: Stackpole Books; 1st edition (February 1994)
  • Language: English
  • ISBN-10: 0811722198
  • ISBN-13: 978-0811722193
  • Product Dimensions: 8.2 x 5.5 x 0.6 inches
  • Shipping Weight: 1 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
  • Note: Gift-wrapping is not available for this item.
  • Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (12 customer reviews)
  • Amazon.com Sales Rank: #117,971 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

    Popular in these categories: (What's this?)

    #24 in  Books > Sports > Mountaineering > Rock Climbing
    #26 in  Books > Sports > Mountaineering > Instructional

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Dale Goddard
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Customer Reviews

12 Reviews
5 star:
 (8)
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Average Customer Review
4.7 out of 5 stars (12 customer reviews)
 
 
 
 
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17 of 17 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars High quality training manual for serious rock climbers, January 11, 1998
Are you constantly thinking about climbing? Do you salivate when you see the clean vertical wall of your office building? If you are violently excited about climbing and are willing to seriously train for improvement, then this book is for you.

This is not a book that details weight room exercises for building bulging biceps. Rather, it is a scientific analysis of the aesthetics of motion in the vertical domain. Let's forget about pulling the overhang with brute force. Let's concentrate on moving past the overhang in the most graceful, precise and energy-efficient manner possible - that's what the tenor of this book is.

This book is a careful examination of the physical, biological and mental processes necessary to improve your performance on the rock. It is a serious and comprehensive training manual for serious climbers. As a bonus, it has a beautiful color photo section of climbers in action - looking at it makes me want to go out and get back on the rock!

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10 of 10 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars Belongs on every climbers bookshelf, December 6, 1999
By james tremain (Park City, Utah) - See all my reviews
Looking back after buying this book two years ago reaffirmed to me that Goddard and Neumann achieved what no other climbing training book has: they combined the scientific principles of physical training with on-the-rock experience and captured it in a very readable form.

The material is detailed and informative, blending research with proven results in the form of Goddard's own climbing performance over a decade. I watched him climb a 5.14 in Logan Utah in 1995, and it was nothing short of amazing. Applying the principles has helped me improve from climbing 5.11a to 5.12.

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8 of 8 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars THE Climbing Technique Book, January 8, 2002
By Mad Dog "maddog6969" (TimbuckThree, Tennessee) - See all my reviews
Improving one's ability in any endeavor can be difficult once one has practiced for a few years. One might think that there's not all that much technique involved in rock climbing, since the climber has but two arms and two legs. But it's not that simple. Performance Rock Climbing breaks climbing down into a number of aspects, then teaches how to optimize each and combine the parts into a whole.

When this book hit the shelves, I had stagnated for a few years, unable to improve. Within 6 months, my onsight leading level had jumped nearly a whole grade. I'd learned to channel my energy for climbing in a more efficient way, and to reduce climbing related injuries. Rather than just exercising the climbing muscles, I learned to better exercise my mind - perhaps the most critical muscle of all for a climber.

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Most Recent Customer Reviews

4.0 out of 5 stars This book is cult
Although it has been written 15 years ago it's anything but antiquated (apart from the cover maybe). Easy to read and very descriptive. Read more
Published 14 months ago by Yannik Behr

5.0 out of 5 stars Climber's Training Bible
I bought this book about five years ago and have used it extensively. If you are looking for a book on how to climb, this is not the book. Read more
Published 19 months ago by Joshua R. Hewlett

5.0 out of 5 stars Easy to understand book giving the why and providing the how
I thoroughly enjoyed the blend of pure science and application to on rock performance.

The authors are world renowned climbers with a clear enthusiasm for the sport... Read more
Published on July 19, 2005 by Rehan Dost

5.0 out of 5 stars An excellent resource
This book will not tell you how to hold onto a tiny crimpy hold with one finger while your feet hunt for somewhere to stand. Read more
Published on July 16, 2003 by A. Wilson

5.0 out of 5 stars Move forward now or get off the rock
Imagine a pursuit that requires bloody fingers to excel at, a life or death commitment to succed in almost any areas of, and then take a look at this book. Read more
Published on February 22, 2002 by killis howard

5.0 out of 5 stars GREAT
If you buy only one rock climbing book, this should be it!! Great overview of training techniques and what you can do on and off rock to improve your overall conditioning and... Read more
Published on October 10, 2001

4.0 out of 5 stars Useful but occasionally confusing
This is the definitive book on how to train for rock climbing. It includes various different types of training and how to incorporate them into workouts both on and off the... Read more
Published on September 5, 2000 by K. Freeman

4.0 out of 5 stars Very technical guide to improving your climbing abilities
A toolbox of techniques, tactics, and strategies to improve your climbing skills. The authors cover a gamut of subjects aimed at both physical and mental conditioning for... Read more
Published on September 6, 1997 by E. Hicaro

4.0 out of 5 stars The best training guide for climbers in the english language
Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard combined their knowledge of climbing and training to write the most complete training and technique guide available today. Read more
Published on December 21, 1996

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