From Publishers Weekly
The number of serious wine books published in recent years can be counted on one handwhich makes Osborne's funny and erudite tale all the more welcome. Structured as a traditional quest, it stems from an insecurity of the author's English childhood: "I do not trust my own taste." So he embarks, Quixote-like, on 11 adventures in the wine world, jetting from France to California, then Italy, hoping to plumb the mystery of why someone would spend $600 on a bottle of fermented grape juice. At every step, Osborne, who's written for the New York Times Magazine, Lingua Franca and other publications, trains his reporter's eyepreviously honed in books like American Normalon both the big picture and telling details. At a comical lunch with viniculture icon Robert Mondavi, Osborne swiftly gets at the importance of his contribution to the industry, while also squeezing in the apt observation that Mondavi's wife, Margrit, reminds him of German filmmaker Leni Riefenstahl, "at once coquettish and dominant." Despite the miles logged, Osborne's journey is primarily an intellectual one, and his writing will be appreciated by high-minded readers: "Wine is always the lightning conductor of an irrepressible and often iniquitous cosmopolitanism." By the last chapter, Osborne can't say exactly what Chateau Lafite Rothschild tasted like, and he has just encountered the foulest bottle of his life. But he also sounds strangely contented, because he's found the rare world where aesthetics still mattereven if the terminology and the people who employ it can be maddening.
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From Booklist
Ruminating on the origins of taste, Osborne delves into the current state of the Northern Hemisphere's wine industry. Traveling through Europe and California, Osborne meets both earnest small-vineyard proprietors and powerful wine barons who set the pace for the rest of the industry. Along the way he learns not only the aesthetics of wine but also the economics of it all: how California now sets the standards and how small vineyards prosper only insofar as they position themselves adroitly in the vast worldwide marketplace for wine. The characters Osborne meets are more indelible than zinfandel spilled on white damask: Robert Mondavi, who went to dinner in France and had an epiphany; an Italian nuclear engineer who returned to his family manor, became a vintner, and applied chaos theory to his well-regarded bottlings. But mostly Osborne discovers that taste has succumbed to the exigencies of capitalism's obsession with brands and product synergy. Odd and fascinating facts about wine pepper Osborne's lighthearted yet deeply informed text.
Mark KnoblauchCopyright © American Library Association. All rights reserved
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