Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring (Paperback)

by R. I. Davis (Author)

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal
Building on nearly 60 years' experience as the master cutter for Angels Costumes of London, Davis outlines two centuries of men's fashion with patterns and notes on how to build each garment. Following an introduction, chapters detail the Baroque fashion (1630-1700), the three-piece suit (1670-1800), and cutaways and tailcoats (1760-1800). Everyday fashion and military uniforms of the 17th and 18th centuries are also included. Davis offers a detailed study of men's fashions from hats to shoes and everything in between: breeches, capes and cloaks, top coats, waistcoats, and pantaloons. Amply supplied plates, figures, and diagrams support the text. While the scaled patterns were developed as a guide to clothing construction for period costuming, only a skilled seamstress or tailor could use them despite a final chapter sharing tips on measuring and how to make adjustments. A listing of major rulers of the 17th and 18th centuries is included. Recommended for most theater, costume, and fashion collections. Judith Yankielun Lind, Roseland Free P.L., N.J.
Copyright 2001 Reed Business Information, Inc. --This text refers to the Hardcover edition.

Product Details

• Paperback: 150 pages
• Publisher: Players Press; 2 Rev Sub edition (January 1996)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0887346480
• ISBN-13: 978-0887346484
• Product Dimensions: 10.8 x 8.4 x 0.5 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1.1 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
• Average Customer Review: 4.2 out of 5 stars See all reviews (5 customer reviews)
• Amazon.com Sales Rank: #358,430 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

14 of 14 people found the following review helpful:

4.0 out of 5 stars useful, informative for theatrical costumer, February 7, 2002

By	"duchatnoir" (Columbus, Ohio United States) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Men's Seventeenth & Eighteenth Century Costume: Cut and Fashion (Hardcover)

I was very excited to get this book as there doesn't seem to be much written on period menswear.This is an excellent book for theatrical costumers (the section on pattern sizing is particularly useful). However, the serious student or historic re-creator will be frustrated by the theatrical conventions of some of the patterns...the 18th century breeches come to mind. For these, I would recommend _Costume _Close_Up for graghs of actual 18th century garments. Still, with this caveat, this is one of the books that I have been "hanging out with" lately.

11 of 11 people found the following review helpful:

3.0 out of 5 stars Great for pattern drafting, February 25, 2000

By	"manxkitty" (Marietta, Georgia United States) - See all my reviews

This review is from: Men's Seventeenth & Eighteenth Century Costume: Cut and Fashion (Hardcover)

I found this to be a great book for the person who loves to draft patterns. Being a costume/fashion design student and an excellent pattern drafter, the books instructions are very easy to follow and understand. Although it gives somes tips on contstruction in certain areas of the garment, I wish books of this nature would offer more construction information.

8 of 8 people found the following review helpful:

4.0 out of 5 stars Fabulous Resource!, February 20, 2008

By	R. Parks - See all my reviews (REAL NAME)

This book is the first book I turn to for period tailoring. The drafts create wonderful period shapes. It is invaluable to me as a costumer. It is a MUST HAVE in any serious costumer's library.

Please note that this book is for DRAFTING PATTERNS. It contains little information on how to tailor a coat. Pattern drafts are available for:
1. Dress Coats
2. Frock coats and Morning Coats
3. Jackets
4. Trousers, Pantaloons, and Knickerbreeches
5. Waistcoats (Vests)
6. Topcoats
(this list is taken directly from the table of contents)

So why not 5 stars?

The book uses the same sleeve or collar draft for several different coats. However, at the end of each draft, it doesn't tell you where the corresponding sleeve or collar draft is. It is irritating to have to go searching for it. It would have taken one little line of text referring to a page number. Someday when I have nothing better to do and a good chunk of time, I will go through and write in such information.

Additionally, the drafts don't always let you know exactly what you are drafting and how it relates to the body. Most of the drafts have a dropped shoulder line, for example, but you don't know how far it is dropped and are therefore unsure where to balance the sleeve.

It is hard to have the draft picture and instructions on different pages, which happens frequently. I will usually copy one or the other so I don't have to keep flipping back and forth.

I have a few suggestions which might make the drafts results better.

This book creates a draft almost solely based on the chest measurement, using fractions of the chest measurement in order to find certain distances. This works well on a well-proportioned gentleman. Beware, however, of using this draft straight-up for a man whose chest measurement is the same or smaller than their waist! Always check the waist when you are finished drafting. You may have to adjust.

Another suggestion is to go ahead and preemptively drop the lower armscye 1.5"! I have no idea how any man could look good with their coat bunching up in their armpit. R.I. Davis knows his stuff, but on this point he confuses me. You will be happy you don't have to re-draft the sleeve later. (EDIT: this suggestion only applies if you don't have the depth of armscye on your measurement sheet. When I do have that measurement, these drafts work well. When I didn't, the suggested 8.5" or so was just too short for every coat I drafted.)

I have used this book for a few years now and wouldn't go anywhere without it. It is available on and off from Amazon but it can be found elsewhere new for around $30. Contact me if you need more information.