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3 of 3 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Simply the Best, June 19, 2001
John Roskelley is arguably the greatest American mountaineer of his generation. His credentials are awesome, and he is alive to tell the tale. He is a rarity: a great climber who can also write. Usually the two do not go together; the only other exception I can think of is Austrian great Kurt Diemburger.Mr. Roskelley's snapshot-style autobiography is a delight. Beginning in his 16th year as a wild child with incredible energy and no focus, he discovered, with the help of his father, the Spokane Mountaineers Club. He never looked back. They treated him as an "adult," which was of vital importance to him, and after his first trek up Mt. Rainier, he knew he had a "forever longing to be above those clouds." He found himself an unlikely partner who was as preppie, straight arrow as John was wild and rebellious, but they made a perfect team. Both were impatient to a fault, resolute and absolutely fearless as you can only be when you are that young. They rock-climbed at Yosemite, climbed icefalls in Idaho and attacked Dengali (otherwise known as Mt. McKinley) in Alaska. At an age when most climbers are totally unrecognized, he was invited on a climb up Dhaulgiri, a 26,800 ft. monster in Nepal, Himalaya. He wasn't quite sure what it was; he just knew he wanted to go. The team's successful ascent was only the third that had ever been made. Mr. Roskelley brings a lot of practicality, bluntness and a touch of the poet when he recounts his adventures and the friends he has made along the way. I am sure he can be a difficult friend. He never minces words and has an appalling way of "laying it on the line" letting tender sensibilities fly where they may. His tenacity in achieving his goals is sometimes like being confronted with a charging Mack truck. He has a reputation of being the worst of the macho, MCP (male chauvinist pig) in a group that is famous for these traits. I don't think this is an entirely a fair evaluation. He doesn't like anything to interfere with the dedication and concentration it takes to successfully climb a difficult peak. Romances and groupies are prime distractions. He has no patience or tolerance for either. Yet he displays in his fine writing a romantic, lyrical side that would probably amaze his good buds on the mountain. I recommend this book highly to anyone from the armchair adventurer to the skilled climber to someone who just wants a highly entertaining read.
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