Detectives on Everest: The 2001 Mallory and Irvine Research Expedition [ILLUSTRATED] (Paperback)

by Jochen Hemmleb (Author), Eric Simonson (Author), Dave Hahn (Author) "If the 1999 Mallory & Irvine Research Expedition team had scrutinized Everest's North Face with the eyes of detectives, we were now put under the..." (more)
Key Phrases: irvine research expedition, first search team, final pyramid, Second Step, Base Camp, Mount Everest (more...)

Editorial Reviews

Product Description
When the research team led by Eric Simonson found George Mallory's body high on Everest in 1999, the news made headlines around the world-and ignited intense debate. One question, at least, remained unanswered: What happened to Mallory's partner, Andrew Irvine? In 2001, Simonson's team returned in search of answers among the high camps on Everest's north side. Detectives on Everest is the story of this second expedition, and what it found, including new archeological findings from the early British and Chinese climbs on Everest. It is also the story of an exciting rescue, one that led the climbers to make some important discoveries about their own values. As Dave Hahn , Andy Politz, Tap Richards, and Jason Tanguay, accompanied by Phu Nuru and Fu Dorji, were preparing for their own summit attempt, they discovered that five climbers from two other expeditions were in dire straits on the mountain . Abandoning their ascent plans, the team pulled off one of the highest, most technically difficult rescues in history even as other climbers passed them by, refusing to help.

Although the rescue effectively ended the expedition, it renewed the team's respect for the mountain and its history. It also earned four of the team members and two of the sherpas the David A. Sowles Memorial Award, which the American Alpine Club bestows upon "mountaineers who have distinguished themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains."

But the story does not end there. Surprisingly, the most tantalizing clue to the mystery of Mallory and Irvine was uncovered not on the mountain-but in Beijing. Shortly after the expedition ended, Hemmleb and Simonson traveled to China to interview climbers from the 1960 and 1975 Chinese expeditions. What they were told might hold the key for future detectives on Everest.

Product Details

• Paperback: 240 pages
• Publisher: Mountaineers Books; illustrated edition edition (August 2002)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 0898868718
• ISBN-13: 978-0898868715
• Product Dimensions: 9.5 x 8.5 x 0.6 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.0 out of 5 stars See all reviews (8 customer reviews)
• Amazon.com Sales Rank: #640,410 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

20 of 21 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Marking Time While Finding History, November 30, 2002

By	Marc James Small (Roanoke, Virginia) - See all my reviews

This is a most significant book which fills in much of the detail about the early British expeditions to the North Face of Mount Everest. Yes, the 2001 climb failed to locate Irving's body and with it the missing cameras which may determine for once and all whether or not Mallory and Irvine did reach the summit in June of 1924. But the 2001 Expedition did uncover the several of the camps used by these early climbs and Hemmleb recounts how this makes our understanding of these early expeditions much more complete than it previously was. For instance, Hemmleb describes how it can now be determined that Mallory did not relocate his high camp, a point of great interest to and debate among Everest scholars for decades. And, what is most crucial in this book is Hemmleb's description of the patient and persistent work with veterans of the earlier Chinese climbs which has made the future location of Irvine's remains much more likely -- including a revelation that the Chinese had located Irvine's body not just in 1975 but also in 1960. Jochen Hemmleb is to be congratulated for his clear and concise writing, his brilliant scholarship, and the dogged devotion which keeps bringing him back to uncover ever more secrets, however reluctantly surrendered, on the 1921, 1922, and 1924 British expeditons. And this book, in short, is a necessary read for all with even a peripheral interest in the history of Mount Everest and of these early expeditions. Bravo, Jochen!

12 of 13 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Excellent read all around, September 5, 2002

By A Customer

This is a great follow-up to Ghosts of Everest. A similar format with outstanding photographs, the book tells the whole story of the 2001 expedition. The story of the high-altitude rescue is amazing, and the new information - uncovered by Simonson & Hemmleb while speaking with members of the 1960 Chinese expedition in Beijing - is astonishing.

A must read for the Everest buff and adventure lover!

6 of 6 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars A 'must-have' book about Everest's early pioneers, September 7, 2002

By	Mr. Donald Grant (West Vancouver, British Columbia Canada) - See all my reviews

For over 50 years I have been fascinated by the story of Mallory and Irvine on Everest. During that time, I have compiled and studied a large collection of books, videos, and pictures related to climbs on Everest from Tibet. In my opinion, "Detectives on Everest" is a `must-have' book for anyone caught up in the history of the mountain. It should also appeal to the general reader as well.

The text is well-written and provides a good review of the British and Chinese climbs that took place on the north side of the mountain during the last century. The pictures that trace the routes of these expeditions are the clearest I've seen. The many photos included in the book allow the armchair explorer to see the traditional north-side routes from new perspectives. I especially appreciated the pictures taken at various points along the north ridge.

Jochem Hemmleb and Eric Simonson are to be commended for their efforts to shed new light on the story of Everest's pioneers. Their respect for and emotional connection to the British and Chinese climbers and their commitment to accurately document what happened is very much in evidence. I hope Hemmleb and Simonson will be able to return to Everest in the near future to investigate the new search area defined in the book.