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27 of 29 people found the following review helpful:
5.0 out of 5 stars
Old School Cooking from an Old School teacher, January 15, 2004
James Villas has written a book which may succeed in single-handedly succeed in reviving an interest in the great American casserole. I'm not entirely sure what the trendy term `old school' means, exactly, especially as I have mostly seen it in connection with motorcycles, but I am certain that Jim Villas is an `old school' culinary writer and that casseroles are an `old school' kind of food.Jim Villas, although much younger, belongs to the James Beard school of culinary writing, along with his Beard protégés Barbara Kafka and Marian Cunningham. As he recounts in this book, the American casserole, based on several different European precursors, clearly reached it's apotheosis after World War II and went into eclipse in the late seventies and eighties with the scorning of canned and otherwise processed ingredients. That the casserole is making a comeback is also clear from both this book and from it's starring role in a recent episode of Alton Brown's very trendy `Good Eats' Food Network show. In the introduction to the book, Villas eschews some of the less savory casserole ingredients of yore such as canned meats and vegetables, frozen chives, dried parsley flakes, processed cheeses, liquid smoke, MSG, crushed potato chips or canned fruit cocktail. He is not entirely born again, since he does embrace some traditional casserole roles and ingredients such as canned soups, frozen vegetables, dried noodles, bread stuffings, and leftovers. In fact, some themes are so close to the `Good Eats' episode that I suspect Alton Brown may have used this book as a reference for his show. The book opens with a very worthy introduction on casserole `hardware' materials and sizes plus advice on freezing casseroles. The casserole pantry repeats the theme of a reasonable use of prepackaged ingredients, citing Campbell's condensed cream of chicken, cream of mushroom, and cream of celery soups as essential. Some recipes even state that he tried to create the casserole with a homemade replacement for the Campbell's product and found the home brewed substitute wanting. The names of casserole types are a feast for the crossword puzzle addict. There are quiches, stratas, scrambles, pilafs, pies, perloos, surprises, suppers, shroupes, royales, supremes, puddings, bakes, gratins, souffles, cobblers, crisps, crunches, and delights. Some of these names such as quiches, pilafs, and souffles indicate that the author may be coloring outside the lines a bit here and there, but I do not find this a criticism of the book. It adds to the value of the book as a source of good one-dish meals centered on the American classic. The author also seem to color outside the lines a bit when he includes some of his own recipes, but as Jim Villas has recently acquired the status of a classic American writer, I will give him a pass to contribute classic recipes himself. This is one of my favorite kinds of cookbooks, as it makes it easy to find a recipe to fit a particular need. Anyone who shares that attitude about cookbooks will do well to purchase a copy of this book.
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