The Soul of Surfing [ILLUSTRATED] (Paperback)

by Fred Hemmings (Author) "I love "talking story..." (more)
Key Phrases: pro surfing, big wave riders, surf team, Hui Nalu, Duke Kahanamoku, Mike Doyle (more...)

Editorial Reviews

Product Description
"The boldness with which we saw [the Hawaiians] perform these difficult and dangerous maneuvers was altogether astonishing. . . . " Penned over 200 years ago, Captain Cook's words could be written today with no less awe or sincerity. In Waikiki, the Hawaiians were the first people to harness the surf as a source of pleasure. Where, for thousands of years, cultures living on the coastlines of the world's great oceans had seen waves only as menacing natural adversaries, the Hawaiians saw fun. Today, as surfers push the boundaries of wave riding, the ultimate test for the surfing elite remains Hawaii's formidable waves. The Soul of Surfing is Fred Hemmings's "talking story" about surfing's culture and history, his own long association with the sport, and everything from surfer slang to the daredevils who risk death to challenge the big waves.

About the Author

World Surfing Champion for 1968, Fred Hemmings has been riding waves for over 40 years. He lives in Oahu.

Product Details

• Paperback: 176 pages
• Publisher: Da Capo Press; illustrated edition edition (May 20, 1999)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1560252057
• ISBN-13: 978-1560252054
• Product Dimensions: 10 x 8.5 x 0.3 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1.1 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.9 out of 5 stars See all reviews (8 customer reviews)
• Amazon.com Sales Rank: #1,262,260 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

4 of 4 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars A Surfers book., September 14, 1999

By	R. E. Poz "Surf Fox" (LONG BEACH, CA USA) - See all my reviews

What a great book. A surfer's book! Fred kept it short, sweet and heartfelt...all a surfer requires. I don't agree 100% with his beliefs but he speaks honestly and with a spirit only a Hawaiian could fully grasp. His political platform gets my vote. His last page gave me goosebumps. I have done many things in life non-surfing related but more than anything else, to say "I am a surfer", says it all!

4 of 4 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars 60's Surfing... wish I was there., June 10, 1999

By A Customer

This book really made me wish I'd lived in Hawaii in the 60's. Mr. Hemmings provides an excellent history of the growth of surfing and outrigger canoe racing. It's hard to imagine his uncrowded surf of the 60's. Also a very good look at the change from the recreational surfer to the professional competitor. I highly recommend this book to any person who surfs.

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars One of the greats, February 26, 2000

By	Avid Reader - See all my reviews

One of the greats has finally written about his love of surfing and the history of the sport, including its professional beginnings. Thank you, Fred, for baring your soul and sharing your stories. Now we will have them for all time.