K2, The Savage Mountain: The Classic True Story of Disaster and Survival on the World's Second Highest Mountain (Paperback)

~ Charles S. Houston (Author), Robert H. Bates (Author), Jim Wickwire (Foreword) "During the terrible days of storm at Camp VIII we thought seldom of the reasons which had brought us to the mountain; all our energy..." (more)
Key Phrases: dandy wallahs, camp vii, mountain porters, George Bell, Bob Craig, Art Gilkey (more...)

Editorial Reviews

From Library Journal

Houston and Bates were the first Americans to climb K2, the world's second highest mountain peak. Such an endeavor is remarkably dangerous even now, but reading of the use of equipment as simple as woolen mittens, canvas and wood packs, etc., illustrates the braveryDor perhaps foolhardinessDof such an undertaking then. Five Miles High covers their first climb in 1938 (this account was published a year later), while 1954's K2 chronicles the 1953 climb, which proved far more difficult.
Copyright 2000 Reed Business Information, Inc.

Review

Here is a great story, simply and grippingly told, which the glory of Everest should not be allowed to obscure. -- The New York Times

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Product Details

• Paperback: 336 pages
• Publisher: The Lyons Press; 1st edition (May 1, 2000)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1585740136
• ISBN-13: 978-1585740130
• Product Dimensions: 8.1 x 5.8 x 1 inches
• Shipping Weight: 1 pounds
• Average Customer Review: 4.7 out of 5 stars  See all reviews (9 customer reviews)
• Amazon.com Sales Rank: #122,480 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

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Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

36 of 37 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Timeless Tale Of Raw Adventure and Individual Courage!, August 19, 2000

By	Barron Laycock "Labradorman" (Temple, New Hampshire United States) - See all my reviews (TOP 50 REVIEWER)    (REAL NAME)

This review is from: K2: The Savage Mountain (The Adventure Library) (Hardcover)

I remember first reading this book as a teenager in the early 1960s, and the spellbinding story told by authors Charles Huston and Robert Bates of the fateful attempt to first scale K2, the second highest mountain in the world, is one that helped to hook me at that tender age on a lifetime of reading and a love for the great outdoors. The saga of the team's creation, the mustering of the incredible logistics support required to mount a credible assault on the extremely remote peak, and the long and arduous trek into the interior to reach the base camp location is a wonderful adventure story, but only a prelude to the incredible and harrowing events to follow.

The assault was a failed effort, and a disastrous experience that left several members of the team dead, and forced the surviving members of the bizarre accident to transport a badly injured colleague perilously back down the treacherous slopes to the base camp far below. The book is a wonderful introduction to the offbeat world of the world of mountaineering, and one that left this reader breathless just in reading about the climber's courage and tenacity under the worst weather conditions imaginable here on earth. So, I was pleasantly surprised to find this book reissued after all these years, and bought myself the hardcover as it is a book I love having both for its content as well as its sentimental value. This is a book one can enjoy oneself and share with any family member with confidence, knowing that even Ernest Hemingway would agree with the verdict that it is a damn fine read. Enjoy.

30 of 32 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars HIGH ALTITUDE HEROICS..., August 27, 2000

By	Lawyeraau (Balmoral Castle) - See all my reviews (TOP 10 REVIEWER)    (COMMUNITY FORUM 04)

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A riveting read, this book chronicles the 1953 Third American Karakoram Expedition. The authors, members and integral part of that illustrious team of eight expeditioners, regale the reader with their account of the tragic circumstances with which they were faced while attempting to summit K2, a five mile high mountain, second only to Everest in height but infinitely more perilous to ascend.

The book recounts the myriad of detail which went into the formulation of that expedition, from the selection of its respective team members to the type and quantity of supplies necessary for such an ambitious endeavor. The book, in fact, includes a series of appendixes which lists in minute detail a day to day travel chronology of the expedition, a list of all equipment necessary, the breakdown of the various foods taken, the medical supplies needed for the venture, and a list of financial costs and transport requirements. In short, it provides everything one may have ever wanted to know about what goes into mounting an expedition. Nostalgia buffs, as well as climbing enthusiasts, will revel in the plethora of information!

The book also grounds the reader in the historical, as well as geographical, pedigree of K2 and the challenges which it has presented over time. It recounts the previous reconnaissances and expeditions which had traveled to the environs of K2. Interestingly enough, on this expedition, unlike prior ones, Hunza mountain porters from a small border state in northern Pakistan, rather than Sherpas, were employed, due to the prevailing political winds of the time.

The journey of the expedition over the remote and primitive reaches of the then infant country of Pakistan is a death defying venture in and of itself. Imagine the expedition with its hundred and twenty five native Balti porters, each carrying sixty pound loads, crossing raging rivers in ancient barges said to be similar to those used by Alexander the Great in leading his armies across the same river! At other times, they crossed turbulent river waters, using rafts made up of inflated animal bladders which were lashed together. They traversed across wide gorges over bridges made of woven willows and twigs. These so called bridges had an alarming tendency to turn upside down, promising to send the hapless traveler to a certain death below! Fortunately, the expedition was able to avert death at this stage of its journey.

Upon reaching Base Camp, an assault upon K2 was quickly launched. With the assistance of the Hunzas and a stretch of good weather, Camps I through III were established with a minimum of fuss. The Hunzas, however, did not progress beyond Camp III, as the expedition members felt it wiser to ascend without them, given the Hunzas' limited high altitude experience and equipment. From then on, the expeditioners, eager for a summit bid, did all the loading and carrying work up the mountain, ultimately establishing Camp VIII at an elevation of about 25,500 feet. It was there that the beginning of the end took place.

While at Camp VIII, all eight members of the expedition found themselves storm bound for seven days. Despite being buffeted by hurricane force winds, driven snow, lack of sufficient food, drink, and sleep, all while trapped in the death zone without supplementary oxygen, they still clung to their summit dream.

That dream ended abruptly when one of them became desperately ill with thrombophlebitis, and needed to be evacuated. Their nightmare had begun. Though it was seemingly impossible to lower the ill climber down the face of K2, this group of brave men would not abandon their fallen comrade. A break in the storm, a desperate plan to save their friend, and they started off with him in tow only to have their escape aborted by the potential for avalanche. They retreated back to Camp VIII and by the next day were ready to execute an alternate plan of evacuation.

Once again, they began the grim descent with their now catastrophically ill and courageous comrade in tow, this time during a storm with driven snow and gale force winds. Braced upon snow swept ridges, they began the arduous task of carefully lowering their friend down the relentlessly steep slope of K2. There, two of them survived a skirmish with an avalanche. Despite the peril, they continued down the mountain with great fortitude. Suddenly, one of them lost his footing, however, and five of them went tumbling down the mountain side, only to have their fall abruptly checked by an amazing belay executed by the youngest member of the expedition. Despite illness, injuries and frost bite, the eight man team was still intact.

Unfortunately, it was not to remain thus. Shortly after, a heartbreaking and tragic accident occurred, resulting in a death which will move the reader to tears. The book culminates in a remarkable and harrowing descent by the remaining survivors, many of whom were incapacitated by the injuries and frostbite incurred along the way. Their survival is a testament to the indomitable human spirit and its enormous will to live.

The story of the 1953 Third American Karakoram Expedition is one of the most amazing and spellbinding in the annals of mountaineering history. Gripping in its telling, it is a must read for all climbing enthusiasts and for all who simply love a great read.

14 of 14 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars Heroics on K2, June 13, 2000

By	David Pruette "Rancors Love to Read" (USA) - See all my reviews (REAL NAME)

Charles Houston and Robert Bates followed up their book Five Miles High (the story of the 1938 American expedition to K2) with this book, the firsthand story of the 1953 American expedition to K2. Once again the lenghthy trek just to reach the mountain is described along with the actual attempts to reach the summit. As was true with Five Miles High, various team members contributed chapters to the book. Several particularly gripping and memorable chapters describe the team's efforts to survive high on the mountain during a severe storm lasting for days as well as their unbelievable descent with a gravely injured team member. This book is well worth reading and will give you an excellent feel for the '53 attempt to climb the world's second highest peak.