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The Rough Guides' Ibiza Directions 2 (Rough Guide Directions) by Iain Stewart |
by David Ingram
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Widely acknowledged to be the worlds clubbing capital, Ibiza is an island of excess, a unique and almost absurdly hedonistic place where the nights are celebrated with ferocious vitality. Thanks largely to the British tabloid press, the popular perception of Ibiza is of a charmless, high-rise party island, but, while its true that high-octane techno tourism is central to the local economy, theres much more to the island than the clubbing scene.
"Pitiuses" is the general term used to refer to Ibiza, Formentera and their outlying islets; in turn, the Pitiuses are part of the Balearic archipelago, which also comprises Mallorca and Menorca.
Dotted around Ibizas dazzling shoreline are more than fifty beaches, which range from expansive sweeps of sand to exquisite, miniature coves nestling beneath soaring cliffs. Many of the best beaches were insensitively transformed into functional holiday resorts in the 1960s, but plenty of pristine places remain if youre inquisitive enough to seek them out. Ibizas hilly, thickly wooded interior is equally beguiling, the countryside peppered with isolated whitewashed villages and terraced fields of almonds, figs and olives. The charismatic capital, Ibiza Town harbours most of the islands architectural treats, including the spectacular walled enclave of Dalt Vila, and a historic port area replete with hip bars, stylish restaurants and fashionable boutiques. Within easy distance are the small beach resorts of Talamanca and Figueretes, pleasant enough places to spend a day by the sea.
However, for a better selection of beaches, head for the disparate east coast, dotted with family resorts such as Cala Llonga and Es Canar as well as beautiful undeveloped coves like Cala Boix and Cala Mastella, and the slender sands of Aigues Blanques, a naturist beach. The east coasts main town, Santa Eularia is an agreeable but unremarkable place, though it does boast a decent crop of restaurants and a helping of culture and history on the Puig de Missa hilltop above the town. The isolated, remote northwest is Ibizas least developed region, with a rugged coastline ideal for hiking, the two small resorts of Portinatx and Port de Sant Miquel, and a smattering of spectacular coves including the cliff-backed bays of Cala den Serra, Benirràs and Portitxol. Inland, the scenery is equally impressive, dominated by the soaring pine-clad Els Amunts hills; between these peaks lie a succession of diminutive, isolated settlements such as Sant Joan and Sant Miquel, each with its own fortified whitewashed church and a rustic bar or two.
Though youll often see and hear Castilian Spanish in the Pitiuses, the official language is Catalan, which has replaced Castilian on street signs and official documents in recent years. Weve followed suit and used Catalan in this guide, giving Castilian alternatives where useful.
On the western coast, Ibizas second largest town, Sant Antoni, is no architectural beauty, but can boast a dynamic bar and club scene, plus a selection of mellower chillout bars on its much-touted Sunset Strip, home of the infamous Café del Mar. Sant Antonis beaches tend to get packed in high season, but west of the town, Cala Conta and Cala Bassa offer luminous water and fine, gently shelving sands. The wildly beautiful south of the island boasts over a dozen beaches, from tiny remote coves like Cala Llentrisca and Cala Moli to the sweeping sands of Salines beach and Es Cavallet on the outskirts of Ibiza Town two of Ibizas most fashionable places to pose.
Serene, easygoing Formentera, the other main island of the Pitiuses, is just a short ferry ride south of Ibiza. With few historical sights apart from some sombre fortress-churches and a few minor archeological ruins, Formenteras main appeal is its relaxed, unhurried nature and its miles of ravishing, empty sands that shelve into breathtakingly translucent water. Comprised of two flat promontories linked by a narrow central isthmus, the island is very thinly populated; even Sant Francesc Xavier, the attractive but drowsy capital, is little more than village-sized. Though Formentera is equally dependent on tourism, its much less developed than Ibiza; its best beaches Platja Illetes and Platja Migjorn have barely been touched, and the sole resort, Es Pujols, is a pleasantly small-scale affair.
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