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INTRODUCTION

The islands of Bali and Lombok are part of the Indonesian archipelago, a 5200-kilometre-long string of over thirteen thousand islands, stretching between Malaysia in the west and Australia in the east. Sandy beaches punctuate the dramatically rugged coastlines and world-class surf pounds both shorelines.

Located just east of the island of Java, Bali has long been the primary focus of Indonesia’s tourist industry; its eastern neighbour, Lombok, has also recently grown in popularity. Both islands are small (Bali extends less than 150km at its longest point, Lombok a mere 80km), volcanic and graced with swathes of extremely fertile land, much of it – particularly on Bali – sculpted into terraced rice-paddies. Culturally, however, Bali and Lombok could hardly be more different. Bali remains the only Hindu society in Southeast Asia, and exuberant religious observance permeates every aspect of contemporary Balinese life; the Sasak people of Lombok, on the other hand, are Muslim, like the vast majority of other Indonesians.

The tiny island of Bali (population three million) draws in more than one and a half million foreign visitors every year, plus around a million domestic tourists. As a result, it has become very much a mainstream destination, offering all the comforts and facilities expected by better-off tourists, and suffering the predictable problems of congestion, commercialization and breakneck Westernization. However, its original charm is still very much in evidence, its stunning temples and spectacular festivals set off by the gorgeously lush landscape of the interior. Meanwhile, Lombok (population 2.3 million) plays host to only 250,000 foreign visitors annually (and about the same number of domestic tourists), and boasts only a handful of burgeoning tourist resorts, retaining its reputation as a more adventurous destination than its neighbour. While there are established resorts on the coast and in the hill villages, Lombok still has extensive areas that have yet to be fully explored by visitors.

Until the nineteenth century, both Bali and Lombok were divided into small kingdoms, each domain ruled by a succession of rajas whose territories fluctuated so much that, at times, parts of eastern Bali and western Lombok were joined under a single ruler. More recently, both islands endured years of colonial rule under the Dutch East Indies government, which only ended with hard-won independence for Indonesia in 1949. Since then, the Jakarta-based government of Indonesia has tried hard to foster a sense of national identity among its extraordinarily diverse islands, both by implementing a unifying five-point political philosophy, the Pancasila, and through the mandatory introduction of Bahasa Indonesia, now the lingua franca for the whole archipelago. Politically, Bali is administered as a province in its own right, while Lombok is the most westerly island of Nusa Tenggara province, which stretches east as far as Timor.

Excerpted from The Rough Guide to Bali and Lombok by Lesley Reader, Lucy Ridout. Copyright © 2002. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.
WHERE TO GO

Bali’s best-known resort is Kuta beach, an eight-kilometre sweep of golden sand whose international reputation as a hangout for weekending Australian surfers is enhanced by its numerous restaurants, bars, clubs and shops. Travellers seeking more relaxed alternatives generally head across the southern peninsula to Sanur or, increasingly, to peaceful Candi Dasa further east, or the black volcanic sands of Lovina on the north coast. Quieter, but more upmarket, seaside options can be found at Jimbaran in the south and Pemuteran in the northwest. On Lombok, the Senggigi coastline offers the widest range of accommodation, while the nearby and rapidly developing Gili Islands have long been a favourite with backpackers. All these resorts make comfortable bases for divers and snorkellers, within easy reach of the islands’ fine reefs; Bali also boasts an unusually accessible wreck dive. Surfers on Bali head for the famed south-coast swells (particularly around Uluwatu) and the offshore island breaks of Nusa Lembongan, though less experienced wave-riders find Kuta and Medewi more manageable. There’s also plenty of surfing potential off Lombok’s south coast.

Despite the obvious attractions of the beach resorts, most visitors also venture inland to experience more traditional island life. On Bali, the once-tiny village of Ubud has become a hugely popular cultural centre, still charming but undeniably commercialized, where traditional dances are staged every night of the week and the streets are full of arts and crafts galleries. Tetebatu on Lombok occupies a similarly cool position in the foothills, although, like the island as a whole, it lacks the artistic heritage of Bali. In general, the villages on both islands are far more appealing than the towns, but Bali’s capital Denpasar, its former capital Singaraja, and Lombok’s Ampenan-Mataram-Cakranegara-Sweta conurbation are all worth a day-trip for their museums, markets and temples.

Bali’s other big draw is its proliferation of elegant Hindu temples, particularly the spectacular island temple of Tanah Lot and the extensive Besakih complex on the slopes of Gunung Agung. Temple festivals are also well worth attending: held throughout the island and at frequent intervals during the year, most are open to tourists.

Both islands hold a number of hiking possibilities, many of them up volcanoes. The best is undoubtedly the climb to the crater lake of Lombok’s Gunung Rinjani – one of the highest peaks in Indonesia – though the ascent to the summit of Bali’s Gunung Batur is less arduous and therefore more popular. Bali’s sole national park, Bali Barat, has relatively few interesting trails, but is a rewarding place for bird-watching, as is the area around Lake Bratan in the centre of the island. Even if you don’t want to go hiking, it’s worth considering a trip to the northern hills for the change of scenery and refreshing temperatures; the little village of Munduk makes a satisfying focus.

WHEN TO GO

Located firmly in the tropical zone, just eight degrees south of the equator, Bali and Lombok enjoy fairly constant year-round temperatures, averaging 27°C in the shade in the coastal areas and the hills around Ubud, and 22°C in the central volcanoes around Kintamani. Both islands are hit by an annual monsoon which brings rain, wind and a sometimes unbearable 97 percent humidity from October through to March.

The best time to visit is outside the monsoon season, from May to September, though monsoons are, like many other events in Indonesia, notoriously unpunctual, and you should be prepared to get rained on in Ubud at any time of year. However, the prospect of a daily rainstorm shouldn’t put you off: you’re far more likely to get an hour-long downpour than day-long drizzle. In addition, the landscape is at its most verdant during this time, and the rivers and waterfalls at their most dramatic; mountain-climbing, though, is both unrewarding and dangerous at this time of year. You should also be aware of the peak tourist seasons: resorts on both islands get packed out between mid-June and mid-September and again over the Christmas–New Year period, when prices rocket and rooms can be fully booked for days or weeks in advance. For a two-day weather forecast for the different regions of Bali, and to request a customized forecast for weather-sensitive activities such as diving, sailing or hiking, visit Baliweather.net.

First Sentence:
An average of 125 international and domestic flights, carrying some 11,000 passengers, use Bali's Ngurah Rai Airport every day, so there's no shortage of choice when flying into the region. Read the first page Key Phrases - Statistically Improbable Phrases (SIPs): (learn more)
good verandahs, bemo station, kantor telkom, kayangan jagat, directional temples, bemo terminal, bemo corner, tourist shuttle bus, direct bemo, kulkul tower, public bemos, oleg tambulilingan, bemo routes, meru dedicated, dewa agung, bumblebee dance, following price codes, candi bentar, pasar seni, bemo ride, thatch bungalows, pura dalem, international airline offices, pura puseh, traditional bungalows Key Phrases - Capitalized Phrases (CAPs): (learn more)
Candi Dasa, Nusa Dua, Padang Bai, Gunung Agung, Tanjung Benoa, New Zealand, Gili Trawangan, Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan, Gili Air, Toya Bungkah, Neka Museum, Gunung Batur, Labuhan Lombok, East Java, Goa Gajah, New York, Walter Spies, Gunung Batukau, Jalan Legian, Lake Bratan, Monkey Forest Road, Wetu Telu, Dhyana Pura, Grand Bali Beach New!
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