North Shore Chronicles: Big Wave Surfing in Hawaii (Paperback)

by Bruce Jenkins (Author) "The month of February 1986 was an unusually big one on the North Shore..." (more)
Key Phrases: second reef, biggest wave, big surf, North Shore, Mark Foo, Waimea Bay (more...)

Editorial Reviews

Review
"Captures the true feelings of the world's best surfers. The best I've ever read."
-Greg Noll

"An authentic, exciting look at one of the last frontiers of American culture."
-Matt Warshaw, editor, Surfer magazine

"Brings the North Shore to your doorstep - the big names and hte unknowns. This book will keep you burning the midnight oil, and when you're finished, you'll be buying your plane ticket to Hawaii."
- Mike Reilley, Los Angeles Times --This text refers to the Paperback edition.

Product Description
From big-wave greats like Darrick Doerner and Carol Philips to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham, here is a collection of engaging interviews with Hawaii's best wave-riders.

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Product Details

• Paperback: 195 pages
• Publisher: North Atlantic Books; 2nd edition (June 1999)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1883319900
• ISBN-13: 978-1883319908
• Product Dimensions: 8.9 x 6 x 0.7 inches
• Shipping Weight: 14.9 ounces
• Average Customer Review: 5.0 out of 5 stars See all reviews (5 customer reviews)
• Amazon.com Sales Rank: #1,282,311 in Books (See Bestsellers in Books)

Customer Reviews

Most Helpful Customer Reviews

24 of 25 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars The Best of Its Kind, May 2, 2000

By	"takfam" (Cambridge, MA) - See all my reviews

With all due respect to hard-working surf journalists everywhere, author Bruce Jenkins contributes an overdue dose of world-class penmanship to one of the world's most profound human challenges-- Big Wave Surfing. As a professional sportswriter, Jenkins has covered events such as the Stanley Cup, PGA, Superbowl, and World Series. But his true love of surfing shines forth here. He captures the attitudes, lifestyles, and mystique of the world's legendary watermen, in their rightful environment: the North Shore of Oahu. I grew up surfing on Oahu, and I can attest that, for a sane person, North Shore surfing is first and foremost about conquering horrendous personal fear. Although beautiful, the waves there are huge, thick, fast, churning, and unforgiving. One must endure deathly wipeouts and end-of-the-world-type situations, and cultivate Herculean stamina to survive the hellish ocean conditions. Each surfer chronicled here has somehow overcome these odds to make it to the elite inner circle. They represent vastly different personalities, backgrounds, physical builds, but all possess one thing in common: Big Brass Ones, and the respect of the entire surf community. I especially enjoyed the interview with big-wave rider Tom Nellis and his opinions of the scene. Nellis is entertaining and forthright as he pays respectful homage to his legendary surf peers Michael Ho, Clyde Aikau, and Gerry Lopez. All in all, Jenkins does a marvelous job capturing the "Wild West" feel of the North Shore lifestyle. He's right: talk and posturing matter very little there-- in the end, it is ultimately about who has "sack" and who doesn't. The North Shore is truly a macho frontier, and in this book you'll understand why. You'll enjoy all the profiles-- Jenkins' selection of featured surfers is very well-balanced, deep, and lasting. Even if you've never surfed, get this book. You will be intrigued. And if you suspect that these wonderful tales seem somehow exaggerated or too mythic, try paddling out to a routine, Hawaiian-sized 10-foot (i.e., two-story-high) day at Sunset Beach. If by chance you live through it, thank the Lord and remember that these guys handle waves and ocean conditions SEVERAL TIMES that heavy. Hats off to Bruce Jenkins-- and I hope he writes another one!

7 of 8 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars a great way to learn about a few true hawaiian watermen, May 3, 1998

By A Customer

This review is from: North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii (Paperback)

north shore chronicals is a mind boggling book that will make you take a secound look at surfing in hawaii. With all the stories being true you will have a deep understanding for how the true hawaiian watermen live there lives.

5 of 6 people found the following review helpful:

5.0 out of 5 stars a must read, November 1, 1999

By A Customer

great stories and great pictures! it gives a wonderful insight ito the most fearless men's lives, a must read!