Voyage Across America

A Conversation with William Least Heat-Moon
By Byron Ricks

For four months, celebrated writer William Least Heat-Moon, author of Blue Highways and PrairyErth, journeyed more than 5,000 miles across the U.S. by water. Least Heat-Moon's new book, River-Horse, chronicles his explorations, adventures, and rediscovery of America. In this interview, Byron Ricks, author of the recent Homelands: Kayaking the Inside Passage, talks with William Least Heat-Moon about the call of America's waterways.


Amazon.com: Rivers are the other "blue highways" across America. What was the seed of your River-Horse journey?

William Least Heat-Moon: It's really hard to pin the seed down because there were so many of them, beginning when I was about 9 or 10. I was messing about in a little creek near my house, and it finally dawned on me that that creek actually went somewhere. It had an end to it that was well beyond anything I'd ever known. And with that realization and going home and looking at maps, I saw that all the waters of the world were one.

Later, when I started seeing that I was running out of drastically new country to visit in the United States, I began wondering, "how do you change perspective," and, of course, waterways came to my mind. That was about 20 years ago. And I began looking at maps to see if there was a water route across the country.

Amazon.com: Does America still look to its rivers, or are they merely artifacts?

Least Heat-Moon: Well, there are certainly places where they're artifacts--but in other areas we're beginning to see rivers clearly again, as a necessary part of a healthy America. They are our arteries. They, in so many ways, supply us with the most basic needs, such as drinkable water. Beyond that, I think we're seeing rivers now as adding something almost indefinable to the quality of life in towns and cities. In New York there was a plan to put another sewage plant on the Hudson, and that got defeated. If you can get New Yorkers fighting for rivers, then things are changing.

Amazon.com:

An environmental ethos is woven through River-Horse . Is that feeling stronger for you now than when you took the Blue Highways journey?

Least Heat-Moon: Well, it isn't stronger in my heart or my passions than it was then. I've had that ever since I was a boy--the belief in the primacy of natural things. But I did want this book to be, not a textbook on environmental issues, but a book that would lure people who might not otherwise think of these issues into looking at them. And that's why those pages at the back of the book are called "If You Want to Help." This will tell readers that if any of these issues concern you, call these people, get in touch with them by e-mail. I hope the response is huge.

Amazon.com: As in Blue Highways and PrairyErth , you bring a wealth of history to your journeys. Did you have favorite historical traveling companions in River-Horse ?

Least Heat-Moon: Well, you can't ignore Lewis and Clark. But two others who were extremely important to us were Prince Maximilian, whose three-volume work about crossing the country is not only unknown, but it's not even in print, and the artist who went with him, Karl Bodmer, who painted magnificent watercolors. Those things were continual inspirations. Together, they were key figures, in part because of their excellence, but also because they covered most of the Missouri River, and that river alone was about a fifth of the trip.

Amazon.com: Did you confront a mythology about America's rivers that was as powerful as, say, the mythology of the American West?

Least Heat-Moon: Certainly not to that degree in my experience, other than steamboats. I would say that the public myth about rivers, to use myth in a different context, is the widespread ignorance of what we're doing with them and what they are, what they mean historically, and, perhaps even more so, what they can mean if we use them properly.

Amazon.com: What was the most unexpected aspect of the rivers you encountered?

Least Heat-Moon: How good they look. You don't see PCBs, and you don't see toxins, of course. But I was expecting to see most of the country look like some of the worst places along the Ohio River, and it just wasn't that way.

Amazon.com: Do you have a favorite river?

Least Heat-Moon: I loved all of them. The Ohio was a little harder because it is so trashed, and even it was pretty easy to like. The special one for us was the Missouri because it seemed to have the most distinct personality of all. It has so many different moods. It really seemed to be an animate force in nature that toyed with us, and teased us, and played with us, and tried us, and tired us. But I never felt it was bent on killing us--unlike Lake Erie.

Amazon.com: You write of the river having a command over you.

Least Heat-Moon: Without the river possessing me, obsessing me the way it did, I don't think I would have made it. I think that in some ways that probably is also what hit Meriwether Lewis. And I have a feeling that's one reason why he was a suicide not long after he got off that river. It's just very hard to adjust again.

Amazon.com: How did this journey change you?

Least Heat-Moon: I have far more optimism about this country in terms of environmental issues. To travel coast to coast on waters is to see that when we really set our minds to trying to correct some of these abuses we've inflicted on rivers and surrounding lands, we can do so much to ameliorate those things. We may not eliminate them. We are certainly not returning this to its natural state, but, god, things are so much better than they were. It deepened my love affair with my country.

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