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body modification question

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Showing 1-25 of 28 posts in this discussion
Initial post: May 22, 2012 5:04:18 PM PDT
A. Realist says:
I have a 1990 Mazda b2200 pickup, And was wondering if a 1984 Mazda b2000 front clip (fenders, hood, grill, core support) would fit with little to not mods. both are base model 2wd standard cab.

Posted on May 31, 2012 5:24:02 PM PDT
Justin Burke says:
look on and compare between the two years.

In reply to an earlier post on May 31, 2012 7:19:44 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on May 31, 2012 8:02:57 PM PDT
A. Realist says:
rockauto like most websites just did generic pics and numbers. no help :( I have both trucks side by side I was wondering if anybody has done this or seen it done. My main concern is if the body lines will match up

Posted on Jun 2, 2012 11:05:09 AM PDT
Fidel Amaya says:
Search for an online Forum about Mazda's. I have a Subaru Legacy and found There might be some websites out there than can get you the info.

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 6, 2012 1:36:08 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Jun 9, 2012 1:10:56 PM PDT
Regardless of your vehicle, or the proposed modifications, it pays to torque the bolts that hold the body to the frame to the manufacturer's specifications.

My 17-year old Mercury Resto had the body "settle" on the mounting pads over the years. After a complete suspension overhaul, I brought all 14 body mounting bolts up to their factory-recommended torque specs -- and was surprised to find that several of the bolts needed a few turns to get properly tightened.

After the bolt-torquing, both the wife and I agreed that the vehicle felt MUCH more solid -- and much quieter on rough pavement, as well.
As for your original question -- I concur with poster JackV. Your best bet is to find somebody that already did the job, and follow HIS advice.

My personal opinion as to the feasibility of the swap is based on looking at photos of the 2 named vehicles -- from what I can see, it will NOT be a "bolt-up" swap, and may be far more trouble than it's worth -- depending on what you accept as an end result.
In any case, good luck with your endeavor !!

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 6, 2012 1:38:28 PM PDT
A. Realist says:
sliklizard, what does this have to do with my question?

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 7, 2012 3:00:41 PM PDT
Psycho --

A lot. Here's how:

Your question involves a solution to a body fitting problem with a 1990 Mazda Pickup.

Your 20-year-old Pickup has "settled" on it's frame over those 20 years -- the original equipment rubber grommets that cushion the body from the frame become collapsed and degraded from the ozone in the air and from age in general. The result is that the body flexes and shifts on the frame -- and what's referred to as "body integrity" is sacrificed.

A few minutes with your shop manual and a "clicker" torque wrench is time well spent -- that is, if you want your rig to be as solid as you can make it without spending a ton of money ;>)

No, my response certainly was no help in finding a fit for your front clip -- BUT -- as I said earlier, my body-to-frame-tightening suggestion can and will help ANYONE who has body-on-frame vehicle construction. Even a psycho, silent or otherwise ;>)

Posted on Jun 7, 2012 4:23:39 PM PDT
A. Realist says:
my question was if I could swap front clips, not frame "rattling".

Posted on Jun 8, 2012 11:37:42 AM PDT
Psycho --
I know your question wasn't about "frame rattling".
Neither was my response.

Sorry you didn't get the message. ;>)

Posted on Jun 8, 2012 7:02:46 PM PDT
Martin Brown says:
"I have both trucks side by side"

It would be much easier and quicker for you to simply go outside with a tape measure and find out for yourself.

Posted on Jun 8, 2012 7:47:34 PM PDT
A. Realist says:
Is everyone on amazon just full of poor suggestions? I need to know about bolt holes lining up. if having different firewalls matters. if different radiators matter. If the cowl would still line up with the fender. If you don't have any answer besides stupid ones please don't respond to this post. I want serious answers not these. If it can't be done let me know. If you have done it let me know. If you know what kind of brackets or other modifications need done let me know. I don't need these poor ideas. Yes I have the two side by side the 86 is dead and I am not going to tear up my daily driver (90) just to see if they line up. If they don't line up or if major work is needed I'm just going to scrap the 86 the body is decent but I don't need two mini trucks.

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 8, 2012 8:45:26 PM PDT
JackV says:
You'd have to find somebody that has actually done this to get an exact answer. Posting here is long shot at best.

They look like they have slightly different body sculpting, so from just looking at pictures I'd say it won't work. The 1990 is from a different series (1985-1998 vs 1978-1985) so probably too many differences.

You didn't say but it sounds like you have body damage? I suspect that most people with clip damage just get a replacement from a wrecking yard.

Holes lining up and brackets are a minor thing if you have a welder and skills. Even the radiator is not a big deal - again with the right equipment/skill. The body panel and firewall lining up is the real challenge. You should be able to figure out the brackets by measuring the existing ones as the prior person suggested.

If you really are interested to see if the panel contour matches, what you do is make a template of the panel using fairly thick paper. Thick enough that it won't fold on you if you have 4 ft of it sticking in the air.

You start by getting the paper attached to something that is rigid (like 2x4). Attach a marking pen to a stick made into a point on one end. Put the pointed end on the fender and have the pen end touch the paper. Now move down slowly letting tip follow the contour and letting the pen mark the paper. Have someone hold the paper (attached to a 2x4/similar firmly anchored, etc). You can drill a hole in the stick to hold the pen.

Now cut the mark you made. Finesse the exact shape by trial fitting back to the fender. An exacto blade or a high quality scissor works well (go to a beauty supply place to buy - around $20). Now move this pattern to the other fender and see if it lines up. It doesn't have to be perfect, little mistakes are OK.

Barring you running across a person that has done this - you'll have to do a bit of figuring yourself. Sorry

Posted on Jun 8, 2012 9:14:05 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Jun 8, 2012 9:24:27 PM PDT
A. Realist says:
no, I don't have any body damage I just want my truck to look like a 70's ford courier. I have fresh rebuild on the engine and trans and I like how the interior is on my truck or else I would actually look for a courier. I got the 84 for $300 so I won't be out any money if I scrap it. I did check what years my truck would fit and it's 86-93 then they went to the ford ranger platform. my truck is still the hybrid version (a mix of toyota, ford, and nissan). I didn't just post my question here I also posted it on some mazda forums as well. I am a mechanic by trade just not a body man. So I have done all the work so far on my truck.

Posted on Jun 10, 2012 7:46:32 PM PDT
"I just want my truck to look like a 70's ford courier. "

Hmm, remembering the ford couriers I drove in the Navy on base when I was in from '79-83, I can definitely say you would be in the loneliest fan club in the world if you're going that route. But I think Jack alluded to the information you need to know for a real answer. Forget about the bodywork, find out about the frame and chassis underneath it, was it one that was common between the two models you are trying to morph together. Look at specs between the two, should be available online somewhere, things like the wheelbase and the track front and rear will tell you if it's viable. Look up major parts of the chassis online like the crossmember and suspension parts, do they show cross application fit? Look up parts like the hood, windshield, etc, does it say the model year spread covers both?
From the information Jack provided about the model year redesign my best guess is no way. I think it's a whole 'nother truck.
As for SlikLizard's advice, well that is a very good thing to point out.... to someone who just fell off the turnip truck. I think it's pretty safe to assume this guy isn't going to leave everything finger tight when he assembles it, and most every competent mechanic should be humble enough to know factory torque specs and torque wrenches exist for a reason- your own sense of "tight enough" can never be trusted. Anyone who has ever chased down engine or transmission oil leaks to the pan gaskets finds that out in a hurry. If you overtighten them you warp the pan. If they aren't tight enough it leaks. OMG, what to do?
Get your torque wrench out and look in the book!
But what he was saying pertains to the way cars tend to shake loose fasteners you don't normally access over time and miles. It's not relevant to this thread because the guy would be tearing a car apart and rebuilding it.
It DOES deserve its own thread as it's great advice in general. I used to take a good 4+ hours on a Saturday to change the oil in my Corvette, because I'd put it on 4 jackstands, get on a creeper and with a rack of sockets on one side of the car, the manual on the other, and 2-3 torque wrenches in each drive size, go bumper to bumper checking fasteners. The first time I thought to do that the car was about 6 years old, it was scary how loose some of them were. I mean big bolts that held major assemblies together.

Posted on Jun 11, 2012 10:42:24 AM PDT
Last edited by the author on Jun 11, 2012 7:35:53 PM PDT
A. Realist says:

this is the look I am going for. I should not need to do any frame modification or suspension work.

this is what my truck currently looks like.(not my actual truck) although I have the same wheels on my truck, mine is all black as well as the 84. I actually plan to completely black out all the trim on my truck except the wheel lips those I am going to paint red. I am kinda going for the old school sleeper look.

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 12, 2012 3:09:14 AM PDT
Just to get this straight now before I say anything....

Your truck currently looks somewhat resembling the 1990 shown at

and you want to tear the body off it with the goal in mind of the '78 courier shown in the top link at

Are we on the same page here.

If I have that backwards, stop, don't read any further, forget this post.
.Now on the chance that's all accurate..... dude you've got to be kidding. You're doing Elvis on black velvet over Van Gogh.

Abe Lincoln said "well if you like that kind of thing, well that's the kind of thing you like." So I leave on this gracious note.

Posted on Jun 12, 2012 5:31:21 AM PDT
A. Realist says:
no I just want to swap the front clip, fenders, hood, grill, bumper, core support. I like the older style better but I like the interior on my truck . yes a lot of people think its ugly but again I also like pacers, pintos, mustang II's, and chevy luv's

Posted on Jun 12, 2012 12:48:05 PM PDT
Fidel Amaya says:
But please dont RICE your car out

Posted on Jun 12, 2012 3:12:20 PM PDT
A. Realist says:
oh god no. It will keep the tires that I have on it now 215/60r15 front and 235/60r15 rear. the only thing I have done is lower the front 1/2" to give it a slight rake. I may have been born in the 80's but I prefer everything before that. Hence why my other car is a 85 Pontiac Grand Prix with mag wheels. again skinny front steamrollers rear(245/50r15 front 295/50r15 rear)

Posted on Jun 16, 2012 10:17:13 AM PDT
A. Realist says:

this is an 84 mazda I like the grill and bumper arrangement a lot more especially when it is blacked out

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 18, 2012 11:17:06 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Jun 19, 2012 1:57:20 AM PDT
like those big wing things they used to sell to attach to your windshield wipers, often in bright neon colors... I used to see those and think "wow I just gotta get me some of those! go great with my polyester leisure suit with the white patent shoes and belt."

It's funny how car accessories come and go in fads. anyone remember the aluminum rear window louvers everyone put on 70-81 f-bodies?(camaros and firebirds)used to be everywhere, now all gone. Along with elephant bells, puka shells, and the brady perm hairdo.

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 19, 2012 10:05:26 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Jun 19, 2012 10:07:09 PM PDT
Jerry Jones says:
John A. Lucier Thanks for the idea . I just recently bought two corvettes one 84 and one 85 and now plan on buying anoter set of jack stands and inspecting every bolt on them. Once again thanks for the advice.

Posted on Jun 19, 2012 11:25:04 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Jun 19, 2012 11:26:52 PM PDT
sorry no
Fourth generation (1978-1985)

B2000, B2200

Also called

Ford Courier
Mazda Proceed




Japan: Hiroshima, Japan
Colombia: Bogota (CCA),
Iran: tehran (Bahman)

Body style

2-door compact in standard and long bed


FR layout


2.0 L F/MA I4
2.0 L FE I4
2.2 L S2 diesel I4


5-speed manual
3-speed automatic


Ford Courier

Introduced in 1978, In the U.S. in 1980, the B2000 used a 2.0 liter F/MA engine, replacing the B1800. The diesel 2.2 L B2200 joined this truck in 1982. The US B-Series continued through 1985, one year past the international version, though the 2.0 L engine was updated that year.

The B2000 was also available in a long bed version which was given the model name Sundowner - a reference to nomadic Australian herders who would make camp wherever they were at sundown.

In Australia and New Zealand, the Courier was a compact pick-up built for Ford by Mazda in Japan.[6] It was first offered on the Australian market in 1979.[7]

1980-1984 - 2.0 L (1,970 cc) F/MA I4, 72 hp
1985 - 2.0 L (1,998 cc) FE I4
1982-1985 - diesel 2.2 L (2,209 cc) S2 I4, 59 hp (US)

[edit] Ford Courier

1979 Ford Courier
In 1977 the Courier was redesigned, and a host of new options was available. The truck was available with front disc brakes, as well as a Ford built 2.3 liter engine option (which was the same as that of the Ford Pinto and Mustang II). The key identifying feature of the Courier from Mazda's B-Series was still the singular headlights, although with park and indicator lights placed inset starting in '78 ('77s still had the turn signal lights in the bumper).[8]

In 1979 the base model engine was increased in size to 2.0 liters (120.1 CID). The optional Ford 2.3 L (140 cu in) engine was produced in Brazil.[8]

The Courier was never available with a diesel engine in the US. However, the 1980 Mazda B2200 was available with the S2, a Perkins-built 4.135 (4 cylinder, 135 CID) 2.2 liter diesel engine, producing 66 hp (49 kW) at 2,100 rpm. This same diesel engine was available in the 1983 and 1984 Ford Ranger, however it was replaced by the Mitsubishi 4D55T 2.3 liter Turbo Diesel (also used in Mitsubishi's own Mighty Max and the Dodge Ram 50) for the 1985 to 1987 Ford Rangers.[8]

External images

1984 Ford Courier (facelift, Australia)

The Courier continued to be sold in North America until the model year 1982, in which year power steering was added. For 1983, Ford of North America introduced its own Ford Ranger to fill its compact truck segment, which replaced the Courier in the U.S. and Canadian markets.[8]

However, in other markets (such as Australia), this generation of Courier continued on until the 1985 calendar year when the next generation was introduced. Australian models received a facelift around 1982/1983.

Electric variants

Between 1979 and 1982 a number of electric Ford Couriers were produced - Jet Industries purchased "vehicle gliders" (Ford Courier bodies minus their engines), and put in a series DC motor and lead acid batteries, to produce the Jet Industries ElectraVan 750. These were sold mainly for service trucks, general to local government departments. They had a top speed around 70 mph (113 km/h), and would go 50 to 60 miles (97 km) on a full charge. A number of these vehicles still exist, usually with upgraded motor control systems and higher voltage battery packs.[8]

[edit] Fifth generation (1985-1998)

B2000, B2200, B2600

Also called

Ford Courier (pickup)
Ford Raider (wagon)
Ford Marathon
Mazda Bravo
Mazda Fighter
Mazda Magnum




Hiroshima, Japan
Bogotá, Colombia
Willowvale, Zimbabwe (WMMI)
Pretoria, South Africa

Body style

2-door pickup
4-door pickup
4-door wagon


Front engine, rear-wheel drive / four-wheel drive


2.0 L FE I4
2.2 L F2 I4
2.6 L G54B I4
2.6 L G6 I4
2.5 L WL-T turbodiesel I4


5-speed manual
4-speed automatic


108.7 in (2,761 mm)
117.5 in (2,985 mm)
109.3 in (2,776 mm)
118.1 in (3,000 mm)


182.7 in (4,641 mm)
198.8 in (5,050 mm)


65.7 in (1,669 mm)
67.1 in (1,704 mm)


61.8 in (1,570 mm)
61.6 in (1,565 mm)
66.1 in (1,679 mm)
65.9 in (1,674 mm)


Mazda Proceed Marvie

A new Proceed/B-Series was introduced in 1985 and was produced until 1998. A 4-speed automatic transmission was the primary choice, with a 5-speed manual transmission through 1989. Part-time four wheel drive was another option. The 2.6 L Mitsubishi-powered B2600 was introduced in 1986. 1987 saw the Mazda I4 enlarged to 2.2 L in the B2200, with the smaller engine phased out after that year. The Mitsubishi engine was gone for 1988, replaced by a new family of Mazda powerplants. A SUV/RV version of this generation was made as the Proceed Marvie starting in 1991, which was sold as the Ford Raider in Australia and New Zealand. A similar version was developed in Thailand, where it was simply sold as a version of the Mazda B-series.

In North America, Mazda spent more than 100 million USD to design and develop the fifth-generation B-Series pickups to specifically meet the needs of the market. In the 1994 model year, to save costs related to the chicken tax, Mazda introduced a badge engineered version of the Ford Ranger, adopting Ford's vehicle design and engines. Due to declining sales and a lack of significant updates to its parent platform, the Ford-built B-Series was discontinued in the United States in 2009 and in Canada in 2010. The North American Ranger was discontinued at the end of 2011.[9]

In South Africa, SAMCOR (South African Motor Corporation - now Ford SA) fitted the B-Series with the Ford Essex V6 as a range topping engine option. First in 3.0L capacity, and then later on in 3.4L capacity. The Essex engine was produced at their Struandale engine plant in Port Elizabeth.

Engine options:
B2000 1985-1987 - 2.0 L (1,998 cc) FE I4

B2200 1987-1993 - 2.2 L (2,184 cc) F2 I4, 85 hp (63 kW)

B2600 1986-1988 - 2.6 L (2,555 cc) G54B I4, 102 hp (76 kW)
1988-1991 - 2.6 L (2,606 cc) G6 I4, 121 hp (90 kW)

B3000 1993-1997 - 3.0 L (2,993 cc) Essex V6 V6 (89 kW)

B3400 1997-2000 - 3.4 L (3,376 cc) Essex V6 V6 (108 kW)

[edit] Ford Courier / Raider

Posted on Jun 20, 2012 10:36:25 AM PDT
A. Realist says:

Posted on Jun 20, 2012 11:47:03 AM PDT
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Discussion in:  Automotive forum
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Total posts:  28
Initial post:  May 22, 2012
Latest post:  Jun 20, 2012

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