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D7000 vs. K-5 vs. 7D vs. 60D


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Showing 1-8 of 8 posts in this discussion
Initial post: Feb 18, 2011 3:08:04 PM PST
R. Jennings says:
I am interesting in taking portrait off-camera flash photography as well as some landscape photography as a hobby using my family and friends. Since I have to purchase new glass no matter which I choose, I at the cross roads as far as choice. I have read reviews of all four cameras, and I am more confused now than ever. It seems that the D7000 seems to be an overwhelming choice for novice(not beginners), but the pendelum can swing in any direction depending on who you ask. If you had $1600 to spend on a new DSLR, which would you buy?

Posted on Feb 18, 2011 4:16:08 PM PST
[Deleted by the author on Feb 19, 2011 6:28:46 AM PST]

In reply to an earlier post on Feb 19, 2011 12:09:59 AM PST
Last edited by the author on Feb 19, 2011 12:33:13 AM PST
® says:
You will be happy photographer, all those cameras you picked will do you well. Now it is just person preferences. I sure Canon and Pentax are good cameras, but I can't really talk about those except for specs. Since I don't have them, but I do the Nikon D7000 (I am the D7000 troll here :)). The body only is $1200, the kit is 1500. So the the 18-105vr lens is basically $300, which is a good starter/first lens. 18mm is wide enough for most landscape and 85-105mm is good for portrait. You can get closer, but people have a comfort zone with a camera in their face. F3.5-5.6 18-105 lens won't give you a bokeh or speed of a f1.8 lens but that is for later. The D7000 does pair up nicely with the Nikon SB-600 Speedlight Flash (cost 225 instore, these are ripoff price here) or the Nikon SB-700 AF Speedlight (true price here), which will give you the wireless remote flash. 3rd party flashes might not do wireless on camera, but you can buy a wireless transmitter for over a $100. I have the SB-700 I put it 10' away from my camera and the pop-up flash on the D7000 will trigger it, so you got two light sources. You can turn off the popup flash source also (but it will do a preflash to trigger the SB700). Landscape at night you need a tripod.

I would say the D7000 has a nice magnesium alloy body, and is the cheapest of the models you pick with one. The 60d is almost the same cmos and all, but without the magnesium alloy body of the 7D. The K-5 is also Alloy. The D700 has the newest cmos from Sony (they won't say it but sony makes them). Pentax uses Sony (as Sony A55) too, so you get the same cmos sensor. The processor chip in each is different though. The new cmos excel at low lighting and higher usable ISO. The D7000 is one of the few(maybe only) with a dual card slots. You can combine them both for more memory space or use the 2nd on as a backup or like raid1 in computer term. Nikon D7000 has some advantage in movie mode with continuous autofocuing and it does 20min of video instead of 12min for Canon (that is what I read). Canon concentrates it external buttons on the right head more. Nikon spread it out a little more so your left hand can do some work. I really don't know much about/ play with Pentax to say.

All three brands has a good selection of lenses (maybe Pentax a little less), plus 3rd parties support from Tamron, sigma, and tokina if you want to save some money. Of course Nikon lenses are better then Sigma, but per cost ratio, no. Professional usually buy the exclusive nikon lenses, consumer shop around more. Sigma has fail on me, they are the only one that reverse engineer, rather then get licensing from the body makers like tamron and tokina do. You will be on the waiting list for the D7000. It just came out so it is very popular and seem to be sold out by Amazon all the time. That is the basic information since you are starting out.

In reply to an earlier post on Feb 19, 2011 1:51:28 AM PST
The Canon 7D is designed for experienced shooters. It doesn't have automatic scene modes like "sports", etc. found on other cameras. It is highly customizable making it very efficient and a great choice for photographers who know exactly what they want.

The other three cameras - 60D, D7000 and K-5 - are semi-pro/enthusiast cameras designed for intermediate photographers who want to step up a level and semi-pros. They all offer great performance and features. You might also take a look at the lenses available for each camera and see what like. After all, you're not just buying a camera, you're buying into a system.

In reply to an earlier post on Feb 19, 2011 9:35:14 AM PST
EdM says:
I would get a D7000, but then I already have a lot of Nikon gear that works perfectly on it. Most people continue with whatever brand they buy first for this reason, but some change for various reasons.

All of those cameras have good points, but they do not all have the same good points. One factor is how the camera feels in your hands. They each have different designs and are somewhat lighter or heavier, larger or smaller, and the bodies are proportioned differently. We all have different hands, longer or shorter fingers, petite or large palms, etc. So, go to a store and check this out for yourself by holding the cameras in your hands. Also, operate the controls and look through the viewfinder. Viewfinders are easier or harder to use/see through, and this also varies if you wear glasses or not.

Next, there is an assumption underlying all such questions as yours, that the "best" camera means that you will get the best photos, as if the skill of the photographer had nothing to do with it. Nothing could be further from the truth. There are courses for photography instruction, books to read, and online learning resources. If you study and practice, you can become a better photographer, regardless of the gear you use.

Generally, Nikon and Canon have a larger variety of gear, lenses, flashes and such than the others, but unless you go to advanced lenses like tilt and shift [as sometimes used for landscape and more used for architectural photography], this may not matter much. All of these are fine cameras. Try them out to see what appeals to _you_. There are places which will rent a camera for a weekend or other period of time, so you could do that to "try one on for size."

Note that portrait photography can involve flash. The Nikon D7000 and Canon 7D seem to do off-camera flash control somewhat better than the other two, although this is an advanced technique that not many casual photographers use. If you get very serious about portraits, this may be important, and some like Nikon's CLS Flash system. OTOH, serious portrait photography may well involve studio strobes and such, but there are books about using small flash for serious photography. Maybe in a library near you?
The Hot Shoe Diaries: Big Light from Small Flashes
or
Bill Hurter's Small Flash Photography: Techniques for Professional Digital Photographers
or
Minimalist Lighting: Professional Techniques for Studio Photography
or
Minimalist Lighting: Professional Techniques for Location Photography

Look at the descriptions of these books and consider the user reviews for info on what may be more appealing to you and your plans.

Posted on Feb 19, 2011 10:32:06 AM PST
I was looking at the 60D but with the release of the Canon T3i I am thinking I will go with that and with the money I save I can get the additional lenses and other gear I need/want.

In reply to an earlier post on Feb 19, 2011 12:43:56 PM PST
Last edited by the author on Feb 19, 2011 12:57:49 PM PST
Have you checked what you'd be giving up with the T3i? 60D vs T3i

5200x3462 <> 5184x3456 (in the noise)

Full/Medium/Small RAW <> Full RAW (probably irrelevant, if one is shooting RAW, why use medium/small)

RAW + JPEG [if like the 50D, that is any size of RAW matched to any size of JPEG] <> RAW + large-only JPEG (I tend to shoot RAW + medium JPEG on both my 20D and 50D; the lower resolution JPEGs are all that is needed for direct printing on dedicated 4x6" photo printers [I could go small JPEG, actually, and have enough data])

PentaPRISM 96% coverage 0.95X apparent magnification <> PentaMIRROR 95% coverage 0.85X apparent magnification (T3i viewfinder images look smaller, and will be dimmer if you do low-light work that could matter)

Interchangeable focusing screen [if you get into special applications for manual focus] <> just the built-in screen

Center focus point is dual-cross for fast lenses <> center focus point is vertical-only for fast lenses [f2.8 or faster]

Partial/Spot metering: 6.5%/2.8% <> 9%/4%

Metering range: EV 0 to EV 20 <> EV 1 to EV 20 (60D can meter in one-stop lower lighting; though confusion as later in the page both show 0-20 -- maybe only when in live-view)

Max shutter: 1/8000s <> 1/4000s
X-Sync: 1/250s <> 1/200s
Flash Exposure Comp: +/-3 stops <> +/-2 stops

Burst mode: 5.3 fps (h)/ 3 fps (l) <> 3.7 fps
Burst length (large JPEG/RAW/RAW+large JPEG): 58/16/7 <> 34/6/3

Live view: evaluative metering <> evaluative linked to detected faces, otherwise center weighted average

Rebel models do not have a top-mounted information LCD panel, rear control dial, nor do they have the dedicated top buttons for making setting adjustments; most settings require using the color LCD and menu system. The "features" page implies the 60D has in-camera conversion of RAW into JPEGs (if you need a JPEG and didn't capture one). And if it means anything, the 60D comes with a /stereo/ A/V cable; T3i is just a mono A/V cable.

Are any of those significant factors? (NOTE: these are taken from the specification pages on Canon's web site; I did not download the PDF manuals to see what they list).

Posted on Feb 19, 2011 7:03:17 PM PST
7D for me. But any will do just fine. Go to your local electronics store and just pick up these cameras and hold them in your hand. Which ever feels the best go with that one. (I personally prefer the feel and layout of canon cameras over anything else.)
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Discussion in:  Digital SLR forum
Participants:  8
Total posts:  8
Initial post:  Feb 18, 2011
Latest post:  Feb 19, 2011

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