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best deck treatment/sealer for Pressure Treated wood - Tennessee

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Posted on Jun 21, 2012 7:37:15 PM PDT
graphics gal says:
I have a pt wood deck that was about 5
years old when I bought the house, 8 years
ago. I clean and treat with thompsons every
other year. I live on the wet Oregon coast and
have been told that the key to longevity is
good ventilation. I agree.

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 22, 2012 6:08:56 AM PDT
i use mineral turps and linseed oil 8 parts turps to i part linseed oil apply every other day until deck stays sticky with the oil [should take about 4 applications ]use a mop oe similar to apply ,repeat when deck starts to absorb water ,usualy twice a year

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 22, 2012 6:17:04 AM PDT
correction on original post ,when first applying the oil repeat every other day until the deck stays sticky overnight ,you then have saturated the timber and it is sealed and protected ,unlike surface coatings which will fade or peel overtime and need sanding before recoating,when the deck looks dry just recoat with the oil and turps,if you want you can add stain to the oil and turps

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 22, 2012 1:46:38 PM PDT
OldAmazonian says:
Presumably you mean "boiled" linseed oil. If not, then it might take a tad bit longer than one day to get sticky.

Posted on Jun 24, 2012 7:34:11 PM PDT
P. Shea says:
[Customers don't think this post adds to the discussion. Show post anyway. Show all unhelpful posts.]

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 24, 2012 8:32:51 PM PDT
susieq says:
Hi Allan, I like the sound of using the boiled linseed oil and turpentine! You said I can add a stain to it, can I do this from the beginning? add it all together ? and mop it on? How long should I let the PT wood dry out? we built the deck 3 weeks ago. Thanks again for all the good advice.

Posted on Jun 26, 2012 7:58:15 PM PDT
George says:
good post by Guy Huber, sikkens or cabot in my opinion.

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 26, 2012 10:08:48 PM PDT
susieq says:
How long does it last? and did you use it on PT wood?

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 27, 2012 11:16:43 AM PDT
Right on. Penofin Oil bassed stain by ABR Products. Long Long time company. My experiance is darker the color the longer it lasts. Going on 8 years with Taupe.

X-100 Natural Seal - Wood Preservative, 1 Gallon, Cedar Tone Gold

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 27, 2012 11:18:57 AM PDT
Problem is sikkens is a film former - eventually will peel. Cabots is good. Anything with Penofin Oil and lots of fungicides is my pick. (easy to recoat)

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 27, 2012 12:52:24 PM PDT
B. Closson says:
good choice

Posted on Jul 1, 2012 2:21:07 PM PDT
Dooooweee says:
All this and barely a mention about Thompsons water seal! Just goes to show ya - advertising - sure name recognitions, but sucks is sucks. As in Red Sucks. Boston, that is

In reply to an earlier post on Sep 24, 2012 2:23:14 PM PDT
Do you know any sealent/lauqer for partical board? I've painted a 15 x 20 foot Christmas mural in 3 parts for outdoors which will be facing west in the morn. Please.....

In reply to an earlier post on Oct 4, 2012 1:57:49 PM PDT
Dr Jon says:
We bought the Behr semi transparent stain for our deck because it was highly rated by Consumer Reports. So far, I have been very disappointed. Instead of Cedar, it looks more like pumpkin and its sticky. We used deck cleaner and allowed the surface to dry for about a week. I'm looking for a better selection for our very large deck in the back.

In reply to an earlier post on Oct 4, 2012 3:13:33 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Oct 4, 2012 3:25:12 PM PDT
MJ28 says:
Dr Jon,

Check this site. They helped me a lot when I cleaned and stained my deck.

I learned one thing from this whole more solid stain .Oil stain/TimberOil thats it

Preparation is the key if you want the stain to last

read tip number 60 .lol

In reply to an earlier post on Oct 4, 2012 7:20:20 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Oct 4, 2012 7:21:42 PM PDT
C. Magill says:
In response to P. SHea, about his composite answer, OK, that sounds great and all but the assumption you get when you pay 4 times more for some composite is that it won't have black splotches all throughout the wood that there is no way to remove if you don't do as you state every year. No where did the manufacturer warn the buyer of this. I have some kids toys made of plastic that have been outside forever, in shade in sun, etc., but never see black mold spores growing on them, I have a car in the driveway that is made of carbon steel and I don't see mold on it, I hardly wash the truck, so even GOLD will mold up, naw I don't believe you. Ah, he probably lives in the Arizona desert or something anyhow where there is no water or mold.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 24, 2012 10:09:50 AM PST
S. Yawn says:
I used CWF-UV on our cedar siding when we built our house in 07. It has held up great up here in WA state. This year we will be recoating but 5 years is not bad. It may not last as long in a very sunny environment. I am happy with the product and will probably use it when we recoat this summer.

Posted on Nov 29, 2012 4:06:51 AM PST
Home Depot now stocks a renewal system for aging decks, which is a hard shell. It fills in cracks.

I did not use it, wanting a less abrasive system. You add your color. Find the product at Ace Hardware in Kennesaw Georgia. They now stock a revised product, after the original inventor reformulated it when his first product was sold to a national company. Two applications yeilds 10 years service per guarantee. It made a big difference in a deck which was cracking badly, and has been on two years now, with some small cracks appearing that need the second application. Looks good if you wish to use a stain, and is maintenance free.

Posted on Nov 29, 2012 6:36:06 AM PST
MJ28 says:
good luck trying to remove this "hard shell"

best thing is oil

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 29, 2012 10:42:42 PM PST
susieq says:
You say you only use the Oil stain/Timber Oil, but what about Linseed oil and the turpentine??? I have heard good things about this combo .

Posted on Dec 4, 2012 12:01:45 AM PST
Donald Day says:
Use VAL-OIL -- you won't have to treat the wood again for at least a decade.

Posted on Dec 4, 2012 12:08:07 AM PST
Donald Day says:
Use VAL-OIL -- you won't have to treat the wood again for at least a decade.

Posted on Dec 4, 2012 9:45:24 AM PST
susieq says:
Val-oil?, where do I find this?,, A decade??,!!!! Wow ...loving the sound of that word! TY.

Posted on Dec 16, 2012 8:22:40 PM PST
bilyo says:
I just did a quick web search for Val-Oil and found a comment by someone who contacted Valspar about the product. Valspar apparently told them that the product was discontinued. I think Valspar has been taken over by Rustoleum or they have merged.
I've had similar problems with stain on PT decking. My first application of Olympic Maximum only lasted a bit over a year. I've recently cleaned and recoated what was left of it and it looks good for now. We'll see.
I have read over the years that peeling paint is commonly caused by moisture getting under the paint. I've wondered if this could be a contributing factor in stain not holding up on decks. Has anyone coated the underside, including beams and joists, with a sealer. If so, did it help?

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 17, 2012 6:33:06 AM PST
MJ28 says:
my advice to .guys helped me a lot when I cleaned my deck

moisture need to be less than 15% before you paint or stain
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Discussion in:  Home Improvement forum
Participants:  58
Total posts:  105
Initial post:  Jun 21, 2011
Latest post:  Oct 20, 2014

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