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Showing 151-175 of 492 posts in this discussion
In reply to an earlier post on Mar 10, 2009 1:51:17 PM PDT
David Vasile says:
Sunny Fla, I to live in fla (palm beach county) here is the link

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 10, 2009 2:17:31 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Mar 10, 2009 2:18:02 PM PDT
Thanks - we are in Escambia County.

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 10, 2009 2:19:56 PM PDT
David Vasile says:
Sunny Fla, I am in Tallahassee right now at my other house.Dave

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 10, 2009 3:33:14 PM PDT
Dfd Dfd says:
The pad is going to be for a shed, does it still need to slope? Thanks Reed!

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 10, 2009 4:32:17 PM PDT
Michelle says:
Where can I find an offset 48 inch cultured marble bathroom countertop? Or a centered one with a 16.5 inch sink?

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 10, 2009 4:43:17 PM PDT
David Vasile says:
M.Jackson,Lowes or

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 10, 2009 7:50:02 PM PDT
DfD- If it's for a building -no. However you will want to dig the outer edges of the new slab area deeper than the rest. The weight of the roof and wall will be concentrated at the edges and it helps to have the concrete thicker at those areas. It's called a monolithic slab. Also you'll be drilling at the edge of the slab for anchors to hold the walls down. The extra concrete will help keep the slab from cracking when you drill. You are welcome!

Posted on Mar 12, 2009 12:03:32 PM PDT
R. Gruenhaus says:
David, I had two bathroom countertops made by Lowes with a laminate surface and I did not have the sinks at the time, so I did not have them cut the holes. What would be the easiest method to cut the holes for the sinks. I have a RotoZip tool, but I don't see a bit that cuts the particle board and the laminate. Any ideas? Thanks Rob

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 12, 2009 1:07:53 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Mar 12, 2009 9:59:56 PM PDT
R. - Look for a RotoZip bit number SC5. Not expensive and listed for both wood composites and laminates.

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 12, 2009 5:12:20 PM PDT
R. Gruenhaus says:
Thank you Reed. I saw that on the package for that bit, but I have not seen any cautions in using it. I don't like breaking these bits when pushing too hard or ripping up the laminate or chipping it. Although the sink will be above the opening and there is a sidewall piece to cover the edge. I'll give it a try.

Posted on Mar 12, 2009 6:15:15 PM PDT
sam a says:
hello mr. Turney this is sam a again w/the gas generator, since i wont be using the four prong twist lock 240v20a plug is there some kind of a reducer to125v and were do i get it ,thanks again.

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 12, 2009 10:14:44 PM PDT
Sam, I'm sure you could find some sort of adapter at a local electrical supply house. But, basically, all it will do is to use only one hot 'leg' and neutral from the 240vac and isolate the other leg. Are you handy, Sam? You could also modify the area that now is occupied by the twistlok socket into two side-by-side 120vac duplex outlets. Then you can run one of the hot legs from the 240vac to one of the 120vac outlets and the other to the second 120vac outlet. It basically just takes some time with a Dremel tool. Think about it.

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 13, 2009 4:50:35 AM PDT
Last edited by the author on Mar 13, 2009 12:09:44 PM PDT
sam a says:
thank you Mr Turney, how come you know everythink, were did you learn all this stuff? yes im handy 31 yrs into install and service of high speed elevators.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009 6:59:32 AM PDT
B Feder says:
I have recently bought a house and in the foyer there is carpeting that has been installed over ceramic tile. Since the height of this combination doesn't allow a mat to wipe your feet on when coming in from outside, I'm thinking of cutting back the carpet and exposing the ceramic tile underneath. In doing this, I have 2 questions: 1 - how do I remove the tack strips that were glued to the ceramic tile without damaging the tile and 2 - what is the best way to reattach the cut edge of the carpet to the ceramic tile (it will be in the middle of a hall)?

Thanks for your help!

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 13, 2009 11:07:50 AM PDT
B. - Another, much easier choice would be an automatic door sweep or bottom. It attaches to the bottom outside of the door. When the door is closed, the sweep is in the down position, sealing against the threshold. When you open the door, a spring system retracts the sweep up into its housing, thus clearing the carpeting. They are sold at many locations if you know what you are looking for. For a good description, go to and check it out. Much easier to do than what you are contemplating. You don't know what you will find when you lift the carpet. Maybe the tile is damaged. Wait until you replace the carpet or figure on removing the carpet and the old tile and replacing the tile.

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 13, 2009 12:53:14 PM PDT
B Feder says:
Thanks Reed for the quick response. There actually isn't any room between the door and the carpet for a door sweep - they actually cut the door sweep off went they installed the carpet. My problem is that there is no room between the carpet and a door to add a mat either. So when people come in and need to wipe their feet, they have no option except to wipe it on the carpet. The carpet was relatively new when I moved in so I'm not planning on replacing it any time soon and it looks horrible now.

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 13, 2009 2:31:48 PM PDT
B. Feder- Well, the type door sweep I'm talking about would clear the carpet but would not solve the problem with a lack of a mat. You are left with more difficult solutions. Number one (not in any order) would be to raise the threshold by placing a piece of non-degrading material ( 3/4 inch Trex ) under it and then cut the door bottom to fit. Unless the entry is used for disability access, this would be the easiest ( but not particularly easy!). Number two would be to pull back the carpet and see how they attached the carpet. It would not be easy to nail concrete nails into floor tile; it is a very hard material. I'd be pretty sure that the existing tile would be damaged. So you would have to remove the existing tile back to the size of the entry you wanted. Then you could put down new tack strip on the wood floor- depending on the thickness of the new tile, you may have to add a filler strip under the tack strip to bring it up to height. Then it's a new tile or laminate floor for the entry with plenty of room for a mat. I can't think of a simple way to solve the problem. DAVE- any ideas on this one?

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 13, 2009 4:18:15 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Mar 13, 2009 4:21:00 PM PDT
David Vasile says:
Reed, If they have used tapcons and drilled through the grout lines to install the tack strips,if so then that`s all he would have to do is address the carpet stop (gold or silver) at a home store or carpet outlet.I would try installing the stop with tapcons in concrete floor or wood screws if there is a wood sub floor.Sounds like a tough job.It would be better if we could see a picture of the said project and pull back the carpet. Dave

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 13, 2009 5:54:14 PM PDT
Dave and B. - I hadn't thought of tapcons- actually I've seen too many carpet jobs where 'if you can't see it then it's not there' is a rule. I wish we could do pictures or drawings on this site; it would certainly be easier if we could 'see' the situation. Next step on the road is to pull back the carpeting. Thanks Dave.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009 6:38:26 AM PDT
B Feder says:
Reed and Dave - thanks again for your replies. I've actually pulled back the carpet and the tiles seem to be in good shape. There is actually tile on the whole first floor - they installed the carpet to try to make the house sell better, thus the reason for installing it over the tile (or that's what a neighbor says). It looks like they glued the tack strips to the tile, I don't see nails of any sort there. I'm not anticipating removing the rest of the tile or the carpet until I install wood flooring (which is several years down the road), so I'm just trying to figure out how to make the best of the situation in the meantime. Once I cut back the carpet, the new edge would still need to be attached to the tile (since it is on the whole floor), probably using one of those strips from the home store.

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 14, 2009 7:55:28 AM PDT
R. MacNally says:
I use bricks for my curbs.

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 14, 2009 1:39:47 PM PDT
B. - Sounds like you have it figured out. Go back to Dave's post about the tapcons; you will want to use them if you have a concrete slab. The edge strip you will want to use is a strange J shape viewing from the end. It has one flange to nail, or screw, to the floor and another with barbs on the inside to hammer down with a rubber hammer over the carpet . If you can get hold of a knee kicker or a carpet stretcher it makes the job look much better.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009 3:40:34 PM PDT
R. Q. Davis says:
I am drilling holes into a foundation to add an extra footing and start a new wall. How much bigger do I make the holes than the 1/2 inch rebar and the 5/8 anchor bolts assuming I use epoxy cement glue?

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 26, 2009 3:53:38 PM PDT
David Vasile says:
RE:R.Q.Davis (1/2 #4 rebar use 5/8 bit) (5/8 #5 rebar use 3/4 bit.) Drill 6" into concrete blow out dust then use two part epoxy for concrete.

Posted on Mar 26, 2009 9:08:53 PM PDT
Last edited by the author on Mar 26, 2009 9:10:45 PM PDT
My house siding (steel) was put on 2 years ago by a reputable contractor. We had 2 bad rainstorms, and now I have water on my master bedroom carpeting along the outside wall. Somehow rain got under the siding and wicked into the house. I believe it was improperly flashed. What, if anything can I expect from the contractor that put on that siding originally? I called him 3x, and he said he would look at it today but never showed up.
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Discussion in:  Home Improvement forum
Participants:  138
Total posts:  492
Initial post:  Nov 19, 2008
Latest post:  Apr 19, 2013

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