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Initial post: Nov 19, 2008 4:59:38 AM PST
David Vasile says:
I have been in construction for 32 years.I do not know everything but will try to help.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 19, 2008 8:39:10 PM PST
I have a flush mount ceiling fixture without a pin of any kind in the glass globe that hangs down. There are also no pins or screws in the ceiling mount to release the glass globe so I can change the lightbulbs. Do you know how to remove the globe?

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 20, 2008 3:03:52 AM PST
David Vasile says:
Globe may have threads of some sort try turning the globe.Hope this helps David

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 20, 2008 10:07:20 AM PST
Last edited by the author on Nov 20, 2008 10:15:44 AM PST
A. Redz says:
Great idea David!

Now for my question...I am having the basement finished in an almost 50 year old house. It currently has 1 bathroom, but I am adding another full bath in the basement. There is a drain for the toilet already built into the basement floor when the house was built, but it is going to be be redone, as it is somewhat rusted out. I have had many mixed opinions from various sources on how to go about doing the plumbing. One says to connect the shower, toilet and sink to the main sewer stack and run a vent out the side of the house and extend above the roof. The rest have said to connect to the main sewer stack without an additional vent because the main stack is already vented. They all agree to dig into the floor to hit the main. My father has a house that is about the same age as mine and he has 2.5 baths that are hooked up the second way I described. Which is correct?
Thanks for this great forum, hopefully others will catch on!

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 20, 2008 12:58:10 PM PST
David Vasile says:
Yes it can be hooked to main sewer stack without addtional venting.Also any sink can have a studer vent inside the cabinet.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 20, 2008 2:03:57 PM PST
A. Redz says:
Thanks a lot! You have saved my contractor from being fired....

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 20, 2008 3:05:29 PM PST
David Vasile says:
Your welcome!

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 20, 2008 4:31:02 PM PST
A. Redz says:
Quick question, I have heard of the studer vent. Does the sink HAVE TO have one or does it and the shower get its venting from the main stack like the toilet?

Thanks in advance! (I'll probably have more questions since I'm in the middle of this project.)

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 20, 2008 5:36:13 PM PST
David Vasile says:
You can hook it all to main vent.It was just an alternative.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 21, 2008 7:16:49 AM PST
Thanks David.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 21, 2008 1:53:44 PM PST
David Vasile says:
Your welcome!

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 23, 2008 1:51:41 AM PST
James Bond says:
I'm pretty sure this is not right. Each device needs its own vent connection. The trap arms on the sink, tub and toilet need to go into a santee and the vent will come out the top of the santee for each device. You may connect the three vents to the main stack vent (thus avoiding a new hole in the roof, provided you have adequate total vent area) but you still need a vent connection. You can't just dump the drains into the main stack as this would be an illegal wet vent (which is probably common but still wrong). You can wet vent if you upsize the vent like 1.5 sizes, but why bother, just do it right with the vent pipes. Just because someone else has done it a certain way doesn't make it right. Most stuff in construction is done wrong and that applies with the most force to the electrical and plumbering trades.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 23, 2008 8:32:43 AM PST
Sally Cooper says:
I would like to build a quick, temporary run-in shed for a horse. 10' wide, 10' deep, 9' high. It won't have a floor, I will use stall mats. The roof will need a pitch for snow. I want it to be economical until I can afford to build something permanent. Do you know where I could get some simple plans for this project? Perhaps seconds in tin for the sides and roof and frame it up in wood? Many thanks! Sally

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 23, 2008 9:43:20 AM PST
David Vasile says:
They have some simple plans at the home depot for $10 to $20.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 25, 2008 5:09:16 AM PST
the answer is you do not need additional venting for the house but you do need to tie into the vent stack with wet vents from each of the fixtures your adding. good luck....

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 25, 2008 7:06:22 AM PST
Jim says:
I have a detached garage/workshop and would like to use it in cold weather. It is a block building with wood truss and shingled roof. There is no ceiling inside, all exposed beams. I would like to add a radiant barrier at the 9 foot ceiling level and was wondering if I should use a perforated or non-perforated barrier. I have both eave vents and ridge vent for proper ventilation of the area above the ceiling which led me to believe a non-perforated type should be used.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 25, 2008 2:13:51 PM PST
David Vasile says:
Try this link it will answer your question. http://www.ornl.gov/sci/roofs+walls/radiant/index.html

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 27, 2008 7:25:20 AM PST
roverman says:
David,
You have a great idea here.
One suggestion. When replying back, can you include the person you are replying to? It will help to see what answers belong to what questions.

thanks.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 27, 2008 7:46:06 AM PST
David Vasile says:
Roverman,The reply post is already attached to the email sent me.But I will put the name of the person first as I reply to them.Thankyou for bringing that to my attention,what ever makes it easier I am for that.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 28, 2008 1:42:00 PM PST
Hi David,
Do you know much about pellet stoves? I was horriified by how much heat is lost through the flue/exhaust pipe. I remember as a kid a "Magic Heat" attached to the flue of our woodstove and a search here on Amazon resulted in successfully locating them.
My question is this: do you know if such a device can be safely used with a pellet stove? The description of the Magic Heat says for use with oil,coal,& gas--most likely because that is all that was available when they were in wide use.
Your experienced opinion, even if you're not positive, would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 28, 2008 4:37:32 PM PST
David Vasile says:
Hi Michele, No I don`t know much about a pellet stove.I have lived in Fla all my life we don`t have much use for heaters here.But I will ask a friend that lives in New York if you like.

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 28, 2008 7:43:15 PM PST
Thank you David, any leads would be appreciated, thanks for your time and effort!

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 1, 2008 6:42:11 PM PST
Last edited by the author on Dec 1, 2008 6:43:08 PM PST
Michele, Here is a link to an other site they maybe of help. I would ask them for there expert help.
Edwin

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/NTESearch?storeId=6970&N=0&Ntk=All&Ntt=Magic%20heat&Nty=1&D=Magic%20heat&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 1, 2008 10:49:23 PM PST
Last edited by the author on Dec 1, 2008 10:51:36 PM PST
Thank You so much Edwin, I will send them an inquiry right now!
Again I want to say, I appreciate you guys taking the time to respond and help me with this, I will come back and let you know how I make out.

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 2, 2008 7:57:23 AM PST
Hello David. A question: I have 2 sliding mirrored doors on my closet. (Stanley-steel frame) I want to add "pulls'. I have found some self-stick pulls for glass here at Amazon, but I wonder if they're strong enough to use on sliding closet doors, or are they strictly for a mirrored medicine cabinet, eg. (?)

TIA,
Barb
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Discussion in:  Home Improvement forum
Participants:  138
Total posts:  492
Initial post:  Nov 19, 2008
Latest post:  Apr 19, 2013

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