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Is my computer build any good?


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Showing 1-16 of 16 posts in this discussion
Initial post: Dec 9, 2012 7:55:44 PM PST
Ryan says:
After sending my AMD graphics card for a RMA (XFX HD 7970 Black Edition 3 GB) and having some "possible" problems with the RAM and graphics card I was wondering if my build was even as good as I thought it was to begin with. Here's the specs right now (minus the graphics card):

-Cooler Master HAF X Full Tower
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119225
(Came with the Front 230x30mm fan, top 200x30mm fan, rear 140x25mm fan, and a side 200x30mm fan).

-Corsair Gold 850-Watt Gold Certified
Corsair Professional Series  AX 850 Watt ATX/EPS Modular 80 PLUS Gold (AX850)

-ASUS Sabertooth Z77 LGA 1155 ATX
ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
(Using the two assist fans which are both 35mm).

-Intel i5 3570K 3.4 GHz
Intel Core i5-3570K Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 4 Core LGA 1155 - BX80637I53570K

-Noctua 6 NH-D14
Noctua 6 Dual Heatpipe with 140mm/130mm Dual SSO Bearing Fans CPU Cooler NH-D14 - Retail
(Using both fans that came with the cooler).

-Corsair 16 GB Dual Channel 1600mhz
Corsair Vengeance 16GB (4x4GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory (CML16GX3M4A1600C9)

- (The one I had before sending it back) XFX HD 7970 Black Edition 3GB 1000MHz
http://xfxforce.com/en-gb/Products/Graphics-Cards/AMD/AMD-Radeon-HD-7000/AMD-Radeon-HD-7970/FX-797A-TNBC.aspx

-Samsung Blu-Ray Combo SH-B123L/BSBP
Samsung Blu-Ray Combo Internal 12XReadable and DVD-Writable Drive with Lightscribe SH-B123L/BSBP

-Samsung 1 TB SATA 3.0 Gb-s 32 MB Cache 3.5-Inch
Samsung Desktop Class Spinpoint F3 1 TB SATA 3.0 Gb-s 32 MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare-OEM Drives, HD103SJ

Another question I had is that my RAM doesn't show up on the motherboard's QVL, which is this model: CML16GX3M4A1600C9. Is this RAM even supported by my motherboard? I only ask this since after updating my graphics card drivers I started noticing problems with it. My RAM at 1600MHz started to show artifacts and flickering on the screen, toning it down to 1333MHz made that go away. I also did a Memtest (Beta version since it seemed like the only version that supported Izy Bridge CPUs) with it on the default settings (1600MHz) and get errors after multiple passes, toning it down to 1333Mhz and leaving it overnight gives me no errors.

Posted on Dec 10, 2012 5:03:10 AM PST
kyle byrd says:
your ram is at 1600 Mhz which is pretty common in DDR 3 so i say your motherboard supports it have you tried doing bios updates for the mobo and maybe you have 1 faulty ram stick need any further help feel free to msge me

Posted on Dec 12, 2012 10:22:03 AM PST
Ryan says:
Well I've heard back from XFX support, they found nothing wrong with the card but decided to replace it anyway (which was nice). So I guess I'll go ahead and try updating the BIOS and other stuff, then test the RAM one stick at a time at default settings to see if that's the problem.

Posted on Dec 13, 2012 5:34:27 PM PST
Last edited by the author on Dec 13, 2012 5:42:50 PM PST
i own the same board, and while its great and all, now i wish i had this board instead. and no, its not $300+. people are stupid. its the same price as the sabertooth z77.

the fact that you can use liquid cooling AND a heatsink fan at the same time on the board is...interesting.

ASRock DDR3 2600 Intel LGA 1155 Motherboards Z77 OC FORMULA

and to be honest, i think the HAF series of cases are so overused. which is why i got something entirely different.

Posted on Dec 15, 2012 10:49:50 AM PST
Mom in AZ says:
If you RAM pass memtest at 1333 but not 1600 you may try to check the voltage. Depending on the motherboard, XMP reading is meant for dual chanels, aka 2 dims only, not 4. I would sugest then to increase the voltage to something like 1.55V (YMMV) in order to have them work at 1600. Otherwise your rig sounds good. I would do an OC to 4-4.2GHz on your CPU as you have a good cooler.

Posted on Dec 15, 2012 7:14:46 PM PST
Last edited by the author on Dec 15, 2012 7:19:30 PM PST
Eric Yeager says:
You're building a system without a Solid State Drive? I think that's one of the worst mistakes you can make.

Posted on Dec 15, 2012 8:07:51 PM PST
Ryan says:
"ASRock DDR3 2600 Intel LGA 1155 Motherboards Z77 OC FORMULA"

Interesting motherboard.

"Depending on the motherboard, XMP reading is meant for dual chanels, aka 2 dims only, not 4. I would sugest then to increase the voltage to something like 1.55V (YMMV) in order to have them work at 1600. Otherwise your rig sounds good. I would do an OC to 4-4.2GHz on your CPU as you have a good cooler."

Well I'll check if the voltage would do the trick.

"You're building a system without a Solid State Drive?"

It's already built. I was thinking about it but didn't go with it.

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 15, 2012 9:26:38 PM PST
So paying 100x more per GB for a few seconds of loading time per boot is the smart move?
1TB = $80
128GB = $100

Seems legit.

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 15, 2012 11:28:10 PM PST
Last edited by the author on Dec 15, 2012 11:40:47 PM PST
depends on speed of the 1TB drive. a sata 3.0gb/s is EXTREMELY slow compared to sata iii. if its a western digital caviar green or blue in 1tb form, its not really worth getting if your gaming in my opinion. installing the OS in a SSD drive and the rest on a HDD can save you much hassle if say your OS gets corrupted. my setup is a vertex 4 256gb for the OS, a 1TB caviar black 3.0gb/s that i'm slowly moving storage off of, and putting it towards the barracuda 3tb 6.0gb/s. i'll already be exceeding 800gb in Steam games once i finish downloading the rest. in my opinion, i don't REALLY care for seagate, and would much rather have another caviar black, but western digital has only released them up to 2TB [ and now 4TB for $330 <---- screw that!], and for the price at the time, the barracuda was cheaper.

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 16, 2012 1:10:44 PM PST
Finger says:
A bit off-topic but you may know the answer to this: I've been looking for a new 1TB HDD for my desktop but am a little confused. What is the difference between the WD Blue/Green/Black etc? I've been looking for either a WD or Seagate since those are the only two companies I have any experience with. All I know for certain is that I need 1TB, and want 7200 rpm. Is there a reason to avoid certain ones?

@ Ryan: Its great that xfx was willing to replace your GPU. I'm curious to know how things work out for you once you get it all slapped back together.

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 17, 2012 5:44:06 AM PST
Clivegshep says:
Green run at 5400 rpm, 3 year warranty.

Blue run at 7200 rpm, 3 year warranty.

Black run at 7200 rpm, 5 year warranty.

Cache sizes differ within models. 16MB / 32MB / 64MB.

Black = speed.
Blue = budget.
Green = storage.

Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB SATA III 7200 RPM 64 MB Cache Internal Desktop Hard Drive Bulk/OEM - WD1002FAEX

Posted on Dec 18, 2012 3:50:55 PM PST
Last edited by the author on Dec 18, 2012 10:21:35 PM PST
Ryan says:
Tried a few things as of right now, also got my replacement card not too long ago (a day or two ago). Updated the BIOS to the latest version (didn't really notice a difference in anything really). Tried different RAM configurations with Memtest86+ (V5.00b1), which were with X.M.P. enabled with 1.5 to 1.55 voltage with recommended 9-9-9-24 setting and X.M.P. not enabled with recommended 9-9-9-24 setting and 1.5 voltage. The thing I notice is that I don't get errors right away, I get one or three after a few passes (3-5 which takes a few hours) no matter what configuration I use. Do I run memtest for as long as I was doing (which was a few hours to overnight from the times I let it run) or are a few passes sufficient for determining stability? Looking up the answer I get no clear consensus on the whole thing...so I don't really know what to think. I'll go ahead and revert back to 1333Mhz since it didn't give me errors in Memtest, and probably get started on a fresh install with completely new drivers will do the trick.

Edit: Well got a few errors in Memtest when on 1333. I think I'll go ahead and do a RMA on the RAM. I didn't think I would get into these kind of problems with a custom build.

Posted on Dec 27, 2012 11:13:45 AM PST
Paul. says:
Yes your system is good.
In fact, you may have gone overkill on that motherboard.
But good for you if you had the money.

Posted on Dec 28, 2012 11:20:46 AM PST
Last edited by the author on Dec 28, 2012 11:20:59 AM PST
Ryan says:
Well, time for an update. I got some new RAM (because I'm pretty sure the ones I have is bad and I'll go ahead and finally do a RMA on them) which is the following:

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory F3-1600C9D-16GXM

Right now I'm doing a Memtest with XMP configured (Profile #1) with no other edits to the BIOS settings to see what happens.

Posted on Jan 1, 2013 8:25:37 AM PST
Last edited by the author on Jan 1, 2013 12:13:17 PM PST
Cos says:
I have the same Motherboard as you in my build, and while the ASRock looks like an solid board, I have only built PC's with ASUS or Gigabyte Motherboards and can attest to the fact that they have always been problem free and support has been good, specifically with ASUS when I have had issues in the past.

On the memory, I don't do use photoshop or do much video editing, so for me, more than 8GB is a waste of money. I went with RAM with faster core latency and timing:

Mushkin Enhanced Redline 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model 997000 (7-8-7-24) 7 core latency
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226203

As far as the case, the HAF X is a proven comondity, I am a huge supporter Cooler Master Cases, and after buying a new case with every build, I have used the same one for the past three builds. Cooler master doesn't make it anymore
www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2870
(Ball Bearings on the Motherboard tray is so nice!)

I think the only weak spot is the HDD I would have opted for a SATA 6.0 SSD Drive.

I do want to point out that with standard Hard Drives, the performance SATA 3 is NOT extremely slower than SATA 6, as they will never exceed the 300/Gb sec limits. This has been proven on tomshardware.com and other sites
With SSD however, the SATA 6 Drive is preferred because they are exceeding SATA 3 limits.
http://www.gtaforums.com/index.php?showtopic=467100

The great thing is that you can always add a SSD drive later and make that your boot drive.

My system is very similar to yours and should make a solid gaming rig.

My System:
-Cooler Master ATCS 840
-Ultra 1050w Modular Power Supply
-Intel Core I7 3770K
-Corsair A70 CPU Cooler
-Asus Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard
-Mushkin Enhanced Redline 8GB 7-8-7 24 Memory
-EVGA GTX 680 EVGA GeForce GTX 680 SC Signature+ w/Backplate 02G-P4-2685-KR
-Sound Blaster Recon3D Fatal1ty Champion
-LG Model GGC-H20L 6xBlu-Ray/HD-DVD/16xDVD+-RW Drive (yes I bought the Xbox 360 HD DRIVE so have a few HD DVD movies) :)
-LG Black 14X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 5X DVD-RAM 12X BD-ROM 4MB Cache SATA BDXL Blu-Ray Burner
-Corsair Force Series 3 SATA 6.0 240GB SSD (Boot Drive)
-2xVelciRaptor 600GB SATA 6.0 Drives
-Western Digital WD Black WD2002FAEX 2TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5
-Logitech Z906 5.1 Speakers
-Dell U2713H 27" 2560x1440 IPS Monitor

Posted on Jan 5, 2013 7:57:15 PM PST
Ryan says:
Thanks for the advice everyone. I got my problems taken care of for the most part (contacted support of G.Skill and gotten the RAM to work without errors in Memtest).

That you for the advice on the recommendations, Cos. I'll take note of what you've said when doing a future build (and possibly try Nvidia on the next build).
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Discussion in:  PC Game forum
Participants:  10
Total posts:  16
Initial post:  Dec 9, 2012
Latest post:  Jan 5, 2013

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