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Customer Discussions > Photography forum


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Showing 1-7 of 7 posts in this discussion
Initial post: Dec 20, 2012 10:28:08 AM PST
Wow, I am lost here and would really appreciate some help.

I need a camera that is easy to use to photgraph jewelry. I need a good maco lens, some of my items are pretty small.

Cost is a big consideration, unfortunately.

I mount my camera on a stand that allows it to shoot directly down on my pieces, so I'm thinking weight might also be a consideration.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Posted on Dec 20, 2012 12:05:15 PM PST
JCUKNZ says:
The important thing about your project is lighting rather than the camera and any camera can shoot tight framed shots with the aid of close-up lenses and long zoom ... often better than the camera which can focus close and so interfere with the lighting of the subject.
The lack of a viewfinder is less important since for this sort of work using the LCD makes it enjoyable ... so I suggest you get the lighting first and then a moderately long zoomed camera along with a 2 or 4 dioptre Close-up lens .... that suggests to me a secondhand Panasonic FZ50 or the smaller type of FZ should meet your needs. It is what I use with a 2 dioptre CU lens which fills the sensor with a 1.5 inch subject. from a distance of about 12 inches. That is a good working separation for good lighting.

The key here is that you do not always need to come in close for a tight framing and in fact it can be a dissadvantage when working with light, artificial or ambient. One uses the zoom to achieve the tight framing one is after. The Close-up lens enables the full zoom to focus closer than what the camera maker provides. A lot of the claims for close focusing are misleading as OK you get close but only at wide angle which doesn't give a tight framing.

So organise your lighting first :-)

Posted on Dec 20, 2012 12:17:45 PM PST
JCUKNZ says:
I suggest you google Jewelry Photography for sites explaining the lighting needs but I also say you can probably organise your own set-up without buying the 'expensive' light boxes etc as I always have using muslin material to spread and soften the light.

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 20, 2012 1:13:55 PM PST
what is your budget?

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 20, 2012 1:36:56 PM PST
Thanks for your replies.

I agree, lighting is everything.

I make and sell jewelry. A lot of it! Almost 1500 orders this month and my pictures are ok. But it's time to get a little more professional because my photos are all I have to convince someone to buy my pieces.

I should have waited for some replies but I went ahead and purchased the canon t3 deal. $400. and they throw in the digital card and case. I also got one of the telephotos because they were offering $150.00 off deal. Now I will need to save for a good macro lens.

I think I'm going to be ok. All my pictures to date have been with a little pink pocket Sony. This has got to be an improvement.

In reply to an earlier post on Dec 20, 2012 9:11:40 PM PST
I need a camera that is easy to use to photgraph jewelry. I need a good maco lens, some of my items are pretty small.

Presuming this is for web pages, or a print catalog with images less than 4x6", practically any camera will do -- no macro lens required (and, in a way, unwanted*).

A full HDTV image (1920x1080) or a 4x6" print (1200x1800, at 300 pixels per inch) is only using around 2MP of image data. That means 1/4 of the frame of an 8MP camera, and much less for a 16MP.

What that means is that you don't have to fill the frame with the subject (only to have to resample the image later to make it small enough for use)... You can /crop/ the full image to keep just the part with the subject.

As mentioned; crucial are controlled lighting, a tripod, and (maybe) long-exposure capability (if the lights are rather week -- CFL and household incandescent lighting is WEAK... Heck, 600W quartz photolamps are WEAK -- exposures of 1/20s at f4 with a 600W light only five feet away from the subject)

* You've no doubt seen those shots of dogs with noses and heads larger than their bodies? That's what happens when you get close to a three-dimensional object (and even affects photographing flat pages). The further you are from the subject, the less the distortion becomes.

Posted on Dec 21, 2012 1:11:34 AM PST
JCUKNZ says:
While you save for that macro lens I suggest you organise a magnifying glass over the front of the telephoto you have bought. It will enable you to come closer than normal with the telephoto. You will find you have a limited range of working distances but you will most likely get a tight framing. As an example of what I mean is my telephoto [ end of zoom] will not focus closer than six feet. but with the 2 dioptre CU lens I can focus between 20 inches and 13 inches.
A macro lens is a modern convienience tool and nice if you can afford it but make sure it will give you a 1:1 image on the sensor. Not all macros are real macros.

Dennis is right about the geting of a tight framing is not really neccessary if the results are going to be used for the web as relatively small images ... you can crop to get the tight framing. Images I organise for projection are usually less than 0.5Mp which is considerable downsizing from the 16Mp I shoot with.
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Discussion in:  Photography forum
Participants:  4
Total posts:  7
Initial post:  Dec 20, 2012
Latest post:  Dec 21, 2012

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