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Customer Discussions > Photography forum

Canon T3i body vs. Kit


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Showing 26-34 of 34 posts in this discussion
In reply to an earlier post on Mar 26, 2012 4:18:40 AM PDT
Neo Lee says:
@Eric Dahlin

You're pathetic. Stop spamming about the book you authored. It's not even related. Geez...

Posted on Mar 26, 2012 4:10:58 PM PDT
DSLR Novice says:
Since my last input, I have taken a lot of pictures. On further thought, I believe the 18-55mm kit lens is not adequate. For my general use, I find I can use the 55-250mm for more things. I am still talking kit lenses. After reading the many suggestions here, I would probably try to get the 18-135mm lens. It would be more useful in more places.
With that said, and realizing I am a novice, I still think the kits are fine for someone not having a lot to spend and wanting to get some good experience. Everyone, including the photography group I am in, feels that the pictures are pretty good. They may not be the quality of a professional (although with the T3i, they really look good to me) but I am not a professional.

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 26, 2012 7:36:37 PM PDT
T. Campbell says:
There are so very many attributes of lenses... in what way do you find it to be inadequate? Are you just looking at the ability to make distant subject appear closer (shoot at longer focal lengths)?

The 18-135 is more versatile as a "walk around" lens because it offers a wide angle through reasonable decent telephoto focal length.

There are some lenses that collect more light. There are lenses that offer better contrast and resolution, control flare, control chromatic aberration (aka "fringing"), etc. etc.

You'll find that there is no "best" lens and that they're all trade-offs (although there are some lenses that compromise less... but they usually cost quite a bit more). As such... the notion that you *can* swap lenses turns out to be a big advantage. You don't have to settle for the qualities of just one lens.

Posted on Mar 27, 2012 12:31:17 PM PDT
k. sandmann says:
I found my 18-135 lenses were always sharper than my 55-250 so much so that the difference in length (mm) made little difference. The 18-135 photos I found were much sharper thus they could be cropped or printed at a sized that usually surpassed that of the 55-250. Since that was the case with my copies I had no reason to use the 50-250 but perhaps my 50-250 copy was substandard....

My 70-300 usm IS is just as sharp <<<<<< in bright daylight >>>>>>>> as my 18-135 but in heavy overcast skies or the first hint of evening forget about it - long tripod mounted exposures are fine but hand held I must crank the ISO way to high. In the same weakening light the 18-135 still delivers viable photos.

Of course my 17-50 2.8 loves twilight and stays sharp.

Well that's how some of my glass performs.
Hope it helps.
:-)

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 27, 2012 5:33:30 PM PDT
"""
My 70-300 usm IS is just as sharp <<<<<< in bright daylight >>>>>>>> as my 18-135 but in heavy overcast skies or the first hint of evening forget about it - long tripod mounted exposures are fine but hand held I must crank the ISO way to high. In the same weakening light the 18-135 still delivers viable photos.
"""

I suspect you're encountering the second old (35mm/full-frame) rule-of-thumb.

To hand-hold a lens requires the shutter speed to be 1/focal_length. With APS-C, that becomes 1/effective_focal_length (marked focal length * Field-of-View factor: 1.5 for Nikon/Sonly, 1.6 for Canon)... I don't trust the purported claims for image stabilization -- I'd maybe chance half the claimed stabilization range (if the lens claims a 4 stop stabilization I'd limit myself to two stops slower than 1/efl). At the 300mm end, 1/efl [rounding to nearest common number) is 1/500. Two stops slower is 1/125 -- which just happens to be the Sunny-16 guideline for ISO 125. Light haze would be f11, overcast no firm shadows would be f8, approaching stormy would be f5.6...

In reply to an earlier post on Aug 26, 2012 11:17:05 PM PDT
A. Berry says:
Thank you so much for posting such an intelligent response. This really helps me because I'm a beginning film student. So, please keep posting good answers for others like me Lol!

In reply to an earlier post on Aug 26, 2012 11:21:43 PM PDT
A. Berry says:
"What do you like to photograph? That'll dictate what focal lengths you should consider.

Maybe you could help me out even further...Like I said, I mainly shoot video. But I love taking concert photos in dark venues and there's normally some kind of stage lighting (reds, blues, greens). A like getting really close shots of the musicians, but I can't just walk on the stage, so what lens would you recommend?

I shoot with a Canon T3i

Posted on Aug 27, 2012 12:24:21 AM PDT
k. sandmann says:
Concerts can be challenging. 2.8 70-200 i.s. or fast primes. The 70-200 is expensive but its a great workhorse.

Posted on Aug 27, 2012 12:53:32 AM PDT
k. sandmann says:
Oh and you may find help full JaredPolin YouTube stuff he does a lot of concerts.
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Discussion in:  Photography forum
Participants:  16
Total posts:  34
Initial post:  Mar 21, 2012
Latest post:  Aug 27, 2012

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