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machine embroidery


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Showing 1-14 of 14 posts in this discussion
Initial post: Sep 16, 2011 5:20:16 AM PDT
Pat J says:
If you are a machine embroiderer, the best way to clean up your embroidery designs and just keep your preferred format is the Embroidery Deduper Software, now available on Amazon!

In reply to an earlier post on Sep 25, 2011 9:33:37 PM PDT
I am new to sewing and just bought a Singer machine. It has drop feed capability to allow free motion sewing. I was hoping to do some free hand embroidery with the machine. Do I need to purchase a hoop for this? Which type of stabilizer would work best?

Posted on Sep 30, 2011 9:38:22 AM PDT
S. Carlson says:
You do not have to purchase a hoop, but you must keep the fabric taut. Two hands can work just fine. Gardening gloves with little rubber nibs in the palm and fingers help hold the fabric, and are easy to find year round at hardware stores or home supply stores.

There are some good hoops available for free-motion work; some have an opening to access the machine's needle, and only one hoop rather than the traditional two. These have "gripper" material on the bottom to help hold the fabric, and do not sandwich the fabric. These hoops are not expensive. I use both. There are some excellent books available, too. These usually have pictures of various hoop styles.

Stabilizers depend upon the end result desired. I usually use a paper-like, water soluable stabilizer. I am lazy and especially like to use a lightly sticky, water-soluable, medium weight stabilizer, because I want it to eventually wash away, and not add to the stiffness or bulk of the end-result.

When attempting to achieve a specific design element, I use 'Glad Press and Seal' as my 'topper'. I draw on the film with a Sharpie marker, stick the film to the fabric, and stitch. It pulls away easily, and any TINY bits of remaining plastic easily dissolve under the heat of an iron.

Posted on Oct 2, 2011 10:40:49 PM PDT
S. Wenskay says:
I want an embroidery machine to make the business lables for my line of handbags, What type of machine will do this primarily?

In reply to an earlier post on May 11, 2012 7:07:39 AM PDT
Helen L says:
Glad Press and Seal. What a great idea. Do you think this would be suitable as a topper for towels?

In reply to an earlier post on May 11, 2012 11:18:26 PM PDT
Sally Said says:
Serveral models and brands are capable of doing great looking labels, you just want to make sure it has the capability to do the very small (1/2" & under) letterings very, very tightly and smooth. I put labels in all of my custom items I sell, often I will include specialty notes to the person on the label along with my logo.

If the machine does not have the capability to adjust the density, size, etc.---you often get something that just looks like an outline stitch. The largest alpha I work with for labels is generally 1/2" to start ( and then size down from there) It is very important that you select a very clear easy to read lettering; add your frills after you have the letters easily readable, and aligned as you wish.

I use a Babylock Ellisimo Gold which does a fabulous job......but again that us just personal preference. A GOOD Software program capable of manipulating lettering as well as merging with designs is a MUST!!! Labels are really lots of fun to do and actually quite easy as long as you can manipulate the letters, designs, density, size..........thats mostly what I look for........good luck.

They do really add something when they are not just the standard ones that you order, although I have seen some really good sites that will let you customize ones for a very reasonable price!!!

Best of luck, and mostly ....have fun!

In reply to an earlier post on May 12, 2012 2:10:36 PM PDT
S. Carlson says:
Press and Seal is good, but pick off as much as you can, especially on towels. The heat of the iron, while disintegrating the P&S, will melt it into the loops of the towel, making it stiff. Tiny bits do disintegrate, and the larger pieces under the filled area of a monogram are not seen, and therefore not a problem. For towels, I like wash-away. Do not use a sticky tear-away. It will pull out the loops in the terry when removed. My very first set of towels were ruined by tear-away.

Posted on May 16, 2012 8:13:08 PM PDT
modus says:
the adhesive from press and seal can cling to the needle and get up into your machine.... actually not a really good idea.... you might check sites such as threadstop.com or sewforum.com for additional machine embroidery info...

In reply to an earlier post on May 26, 2012 6:42:10 AM PDT
What Emb. software do you prefer?
thanks
Ronda

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 13, 2012 10:30:24 PM PDT
[Deleted by the author on Jun 13, 2012 10:30:54 PM PDT]

In reply to an earlier post on Oct 21, 2012 9:27:32 PM PDT
C. Williams says:
I was told you can use Viva paper towels for stabilizer. What is your take on this?

In reply to an earlier post on Oct 21, 2012 11:11:42 PM PDT
That is a new one to me, but what the heck, try it and see! My only concern is being able to secure it well in the hoop and does the textured pattern stretch when you are trying to hoop it. Let me know how it works out!!

Posted on Oct 22, 2012 7:12:20 AM PDT
@C.Williams. One must remember the purpose of stabilizer and that is to stabilize your fabric: making it so it will not give, stretch. It is best to go over-board with it then to not use enough, although I doubt anyone does that. If embroidering something with pile you will want to use a wash-away stabilizer on top as well so the stitching will float instead of sinking to the bottom. You can play with, see what works best. Just make sure you are doing your experimenting on materials other then your projects. Picking out embroidery stitching as for the birds - makes you wonder why on earth you ever bought this machine!

In reply to an earlier post on Oct 22, 2012 10:07:22 AM PDT
S. Carlson says:
In the early days of machine embriodery, paper towels, and especially coffee filters were used. These days there are many very good and affordable stabilizers for every type of job. I use Sulkey brand stabilizers mostly, but have done this craft long enough that I also buy in quantity from the bolt. Floriani stabilizers are good too. I can't imagine using paper towels. Let us know how it works for you, if you try it. I'd be afraid of paper-lint in my machine, ultimately blocking the sensors and costing excess repair money. For that reason, I'd not recommend it. Good stabilizers, good needles changed every 6 hours of stitching time, and quality thread provide good results, and fewer hours of a machine in the shop.
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Discussion in:  Sewing forum
Participants:  12
Total posts:  14
Initial post:  Sep 16, 2011
Latest post:  Oct 22, 2012

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