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NES Portable System Black and Wireless Light Gun
NES Portable System Black and Wireless Light Gun
Offered by SethCo
Price: $48.95
8 used & new from $44.25

0 of 1 people found the following review helpful
2.0 out of 5 stars Controllers not usable, single player only, October 6, 2010
= Fun:5.0 out of 5 stars 
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I recently bought 2 black-colored systems from two different sellers and at different times. Both units had the same problems. Controller 1 loses connection with the main unit frequently and is slow to respond making it unusable for gaming. Controller 2 does not work with the main unit except that pressing the A/AA button causes the screen to invert colors. The light gun does not work at all with the main unit when I tested it with Duck Hunt. When I view the controllers using a digital camera, I can see the infrared LEDs blinking during operation, so it seems that the main unit is either slow to respond or not responding at all to the controller signals.

On the main unit, the direction buttons only respond one at a time, requiring a slightly different technique compared to using the original controllers. For example, in Super Mario Bros when you run and crouch to slide under a block, you must release the right/left button as you shift your thumb joint to the down button. If you attempt to press both right or left and down, your character will stop running and go into the crouching position, and won't slide under the block).

I contacted Hyperkin and they told me that I received faulty units and to return them to where I bought them from for exchange or refund. I am wondering if some of these reviews were written for earlier versions that had working controllers, for the white-colored versions, and/or if there's a significant number of these faulty units in inventory. It's a shame because, as another reviewer also wrote earlier, it's a great idea that is poorly executed.


American Red Cross Ultra Strong Metal Cabinet and Drawer Safety Latches, 4-Pack
American Red Cross Ultra Strong Metal Cabinet and Drawer Safety Latches, 4-Pack

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
2.0 out of 5 stars Probably best on less-used doors and drawers, March 12, 2010
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I installed a set of Tot Loks on several cabinet doors but discovered that they are impossible to install on our cabinet doors that have glass inserts and on our drawers. I bought this item based on the product photos alone, thinking that they appeared narrow enough to fit the door frames. I also chose this product due to the metal construction, and had planned to use them on several wall cabinets for earthquake safety.

I was able to install them on my cabinet doors that have glass panels. The frame portion of these doors are narrower than that of the standard wood-paneled doors, so I was able to mount the latch with some slight bending to fit. These cabinets hold infrequently-accessed display items. Although they are out of reach of children, I wanted something sturdy that would hold the door shut (and the heavy bowls and dishes inside) in case of an earthquake.

Next, I tried to install a latch on the utensil and cutlery drawer. It is the uppermost drawer in the base cabinet, and a standard-width countertop is installed above the cabinet. Unfortunately due to the overhang of the countertop, when opening the drawer there's only about a 3/4" gap for me to reach inside and unhook the latch. Both my wife and I have slender fingers and it's a really close and uncomfortable squeeze, not to mention inconvenient to use. Because I'm pressing near the bend in the latch, it is actually deforming the latch with every use. I found that after a few trials, the latch would no longer catch onto the screw and I had to rebend the latch to get it to work. If I bend it too much, the tip of the latch hits the face frame and prevents the drawer from closing, requiring you to press down on the latch. This is very unreliable and inconvenient. I removed the latch and will try to come up with another way to install the Tot Lok.

The other concern was that the catch is simply a screw that is driven into the side of the face frame. Although the frame on my cabinets are cherry hardwood, I am concerned that someone might not expect the latch in place or forget and pull hard enough to split the face frame or pull the latch out of the door. So the "ultra strong" latch might survive but the door or frame might be damaged beyond repair. I think a better design would be to make the latches longer and bend them so that they catch onto the back of the face frame. This would eliminate the need for a screw into the face frame, and also makes installation much easier.

I was hoping that the latch was stainless steel or a more-resilient spring steel, but it and the screws are simply chromed steel. On one door installation, the head of the catch screw twisted off even though I had predrilled holes. On closer examination, the screws seem to be of much poorer quality and finish than the latches.

I had planned to install several more latches on more-frequently-used wall cabinet doors for earthquake safety, but decided not to because they are too inconvenient to use, especially one-handed. Aside from bending or removing the latch or screw, there's no easy way to temporarily disable and re-enable the lock.


ETQ PG30P11 3000 Watt 7 HP 208cc 4-Cycle OHV Propane Powered Portable Generator (Discontinued by Manufacturer)
ETQ PG30P11 3000 Watt 7 HP 208cc 4-Cycle OHV Propane Powered Portable Generator (Discontinued by Manufacturer)

18 of 18 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Little generator that could, February 20, 2010
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
If you are also considering the ETQ TG32P12 gas generator, note that this unit lacks 240V, the wheel kit, and all components that allow it to run off gasoline (carb, fuel tank, fuel shutoff). The TG32P12 supports up to 14A on each 120V leg (and 14A of 240V), whereas the PG30P11 supports 25A of 120V through the L5-30 receptacle and 20A of 120V through the GFCI receptacle. More useful if you attach more devices to a single cord, versus running multiple cords. The windings and control panel wiring of the PG30P11 are different to support the higher amperage, and it also comes with an analog voltmeter. What looks like a fuel tank on top is actually a stamped panel with a propane regulator mounted underneath. In place of the carb is a simple throttle body and choke. This would be a more comparable value to the TG32P12 if ETQ included the wheel kit, which doesn't seem separately orderable.

As with the TG32P12, if you remove the 3 bolts holding the pull starter assembly, you can rotate the handle one or two positions counterclockwise to put it in a better position and reduce wear on the pull cord. The manual is vague about when to press the propane priming button, how long, and use of the choke. After trying them, the generator became impossible to start. I removed the air cleaner cover and let it sit for a short while, then pulled again and it started. To make sure it wasn't a fluke, I shut it down and restarted it with the same procedure. Unless you're using it in extreme weather, just open the choke fully and pull, and gradually close the choke as it warms up and the idle stabilizes.

The factory wiring of the control panel is less than ideal. Looking at the schematic in the manual, the 20A and 25A circuit protectors are wired in parallel, meaning that you can connect devices to both the L5-30 and GFCI receptacles and attempt to draw a combined 45A. You can correct this by wiring the generator hot/black to the 25A protector, and the L5-30 and 20A protector on the load side. Wire the GFCI hot/black to the load side of the 20A protector. If the L5-30 receptacle draws more than 25A, the 25A protector trips and both receptacles are shut off. If the GFCI receptacle draws more than 20A, the 20A protector trips shutting off the GFCI receptacle but the L5-30 receptacle is unaffected. You can wire the voltmeter to the two unused upper terminals of the GFCI receptacle. If either protector or the GFCI trips, the voltmeter goes to zero indicating a problem.

Nonetheless, a great little portable generator.


Stack-On GORTA-1250 Wall Cabinet with Full Length Doors Ready-to-Assemble
Stack-On GORTA-1250 Wall Cabinet with Full Length Doors Ready-to-Assemble
Offered by ToysOnline (cannot ship to APO/FPO/DPO, PO boxes, HI or AK)
Price: $149.66
5 used & new from $149.66

7 of 7 people found the following review helpful
3.0 out of 5 stars Looks good from a distance, but a light-duty cabinet, January 22, 2010
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
The cabinet arrived as unassembled steel panels in a 31.5 x 10.5 x 16.5-inch cardboard box, 46lbs as delivered by UPS. While the box seems well-padded on the sides with styrofoam panels and blocks which hold the panels in place, I was surprised to reach the bottom of the box to find one of the door panels lying face down with no padding between it and the bottom of the box. In the box for the second cabinet that I ordered, the door was placed facing up with 2 sheets of cardboard between the two door panels. In both boxes, the silver door finish was still slightly scuffed and discolored, but luckily no dents or scratches from something penetrating the bottom of the box. Likewise, the shelf panels are interlocked and placed on the top of the box with one shelf facing up, with one sheet of cardboard between it and the box top. One of the side panels was bent where it attaches to the bottom panel, but it's not noticeable after assembly. One bottom corner of a shelf was also bent, which I installed facing the back of the cabinet and again it isn't noticeable. Each product package was shipped inside an Amazon box.

The doors have a smooth satin silver painted finish, while the other panels have a textured gloss black painted finish. Along the inner corners, some areas were missed by paint and some exposed metal and surface rust is evident. While installing screws, I noted that the paint is thin and scratches easily revealing metal.

The panels are assembled with small sheet metal screws. Although four 1/4x2" lag screws are provided to hang the cabinet to the wall, this is definitely a light-duty cabinet and not something I'd fill with full gallon paint cans, for example. The cabinet would've been stronger had they designed the side panels to interlock with the top and bottom panels along the entire edge, instead of relying on a few small screws. Nuts, bolts, and washers instead of the sheet metal screws would be another improvement.

Two 16-inch-spaced holes are provided on each back edge of the top and bottom panels for a total of four holes. I'm using fender washers with lag screws to mount the cabinet to the wall. The hang rail also has two 16-inch-on-center holes. The lip of the rail catches onto the lip of the upper back panel, which seems somewhat weak since this edge is fastened to the top panel by only two of the sheet metal screws near the corners (see below where I added screws to the back panel at the center of each seam), and two screws into each side panel. I used the rail to hang the empty cabinet level, and then installed lag screws into the top and bottom panels of the cabinet. Note that the distance from the hole to the side of the cabinet is only 5.25 inches, so if you are hanging two cabinets side-by-side you might need to drill mounting holes to line up with the wall studs. Also leave some space between cabinets so that the doors can function without interfering with each other. Although undocumented, there are 4 additional holes on the rolled back edge of each side panel which could also be used for added support. I installed a plywood backer to install the cabinets onto and I'm glad I did.

When assembling the cabinet, tighten the screws until they are nearly fully seated. This allows you to properly align the panels and gives room to insert the back panels. After all panels are in place, seat the screws, but not too tight because the metal is thin. I drilled a few extra holes and used the extra sheet metal screws to fasten the two back panels to each other, and to the centers of the top and bottom panels. The steel used to construct this cabinet is 22 gauge. It feels thin and bends fairly easily. The side panels seem to feel the most rigid due to the complete rolling and welding of the edges where the shelf adjustment slots are located. The edges of each shelf, top, and bottom panels should have been constructed the same way. Time will tell how these panels will hold up. I plan to add hardboard shelf liners to prevent scratching and denting.

The doors have a plastic upper pivot pin and a removeable metal lower pivot pin. All pins sit in nylon bushings. The right side door is held closed by a set of magnets on the top and bottom edge. The left door has a flange that the right door closes over, so the left door cannot be opened without first opening the right door. When opening the door using the pull, the door panel flexes significantly as it tries to pull away from the top magnet. The most impressive and unexpected feature of this cabinet is the hefty solid stainless door handles. Due to the strength of the door magnets, I was afraid that pulling on the handles would cause the thin door panels to stretch outward around the door handle holes. Since I used different lag screws and fender washers to hang the cabinet, I used the included washers for the lag screws on the handle screws to prevent pull-out. There are no provisions in the door for installing locks, other than some sort of padlock or child lock across the pull handles.

These cabinets look good from a distance, but are definitely light duty (as expected at this price). The panels have almost a "cookie tin" feel, or how a cheap office file cabinet feels. It's not worth the cost and effort to reinforce these units over getting higher-end, heavier-duty cabinets. I will probably put less-frequently-used items in them and look for a set of more rugged and sturdy metal cabinets for heavier tools and items.


Yakima Steelhead Fork Mount Rooftop Bicycle Carrier
Yakima Steelhead Fork Mount Rooftop Bicycle Carrier

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Nice carrier when it's not broken, July 15, 2009
I had Steelheads many years ago and when I needed a rack for my new car I decided to get another set. I leave the rack on my car for extended periods and need the extra security that this mount offers. Unfortunately, I discovered that Yakima does not sell replacement parts for the clamping head. Over time, exposure to the sun has caused the red plastic levers to crumble to pieces, and Yakima Customer Service told me that I would have to buy an entire replacement head which is about half the cost of a new mount. How eco-friendly is that? Luckily, it can be fixed with a stainless worm screw hose clamp threaded through the slot and around the head to keep the halves together. It doesn't look as nice but it's probably stronger than the original design. It would get 5 stars if Yakima provided service parts for the heads.


Toro 51585 Power Sweep 7 Amp 2-Speed Electric Blower
Toro 51585 Power Sweep 7 Amp 2-Speed Electric Blower
Price: $34.97
30 used & new from $29.51

331 of 344 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Not bad, December 1, 2008
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
We recently acquired an property with a lot of leafy trees and this is my first blower. When the shipment arrived, I thought that Amazon shipped the wrong item because it came in a tiny box. Snap the tube on, connect the cord and it's ready to use.

The power switch is somewhat touchy. When trying to select low speed, it is easy to accidentally bump it into high speed. I accidentally blasted away a bunch of bark and made a crater. Oops. During low speed use, it's also easy to accidentally bump the power switch to off.

The power receptacle is mounted on a short cable tail on the back end. I have several other lawn tools that have the receptacle integrated into the shell with a hook to retain the cord and I prefer that arrangement. When you reach the end of the extension cord, it disconnects easily and cuts power. There's also no strain relief so I think that eventually I will be repairing this short section of cord.

Although it looks and feels like a toy, it seems to work well on flat surfaces and bark, but struggles a little with leaves in wet grass. It just takes longer but still gets it done. I also used it to clear the gutters of leaves and it worked well. I removed the tube making it even smaller and lighter. There were a few times when the thrust nearly knocked me off the ladder.

Noise level is excellent, especially on low. Think giant hairdryer. It is much lighter, quieter and not smelly compared to the big gas blowers.

I was originally considering the Toro Ultra, but I was unsure how much vacuuming and mulching I would do and wanted something lighter, less expensive, and less cumbersome.
Comment Comments (4) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Jun 23, 2014 11:13 PM EDT


Shoulder Dolly 2-Person Lifting and Moving System
Shoulder Dolly 2-Person Lifting and Moving System
Price: $40.35
22 used & new from $25.75

10 of 11 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Shoulder Dolly tips, December 1, 2008
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
My wife and I recently completed three moves in three days (3-bedroom and 4-bedroom houses and a 2-bedroom upstairs apartment). In the past, we hired professional movers at great expense because of the large, heavy items, but we decided to buy the Shoulder Dolly and try moving ourselves. We moved sofas, mattresses, recliners, dressers, bookcases, tables, and appliances. Nothing was dropped or damaged. The Shoulder Dolly worked flawlessly. We were still tired and sore from moving heavy boxes, but we would've been much worse without the Shoulder Dolly.

Some things that we learned:

- Buy it early and practice lifting with your moving partner. We chose a small but heavy, metal-framed recliner and lifted it off the floor. This was a huge confidence booster and we quickly determined whether we could complete the move ourselves.

- Be sure to route the strap properly through the buckle. When you lift, the weight of the item should pull on the bar causing it to clamp tighter against the strap. If your strap is slipping and pulling through, it is not routed properly through the buckle, pulling at the wrong angle (adjust length).

- Wear a shirt with a collar. Flip the collar over the shoulder straps to prevent them from cutting into your neck. Otherwise, just make sure that the straps are properly spaced on your shoulders before you lift.

- When moving fine furniture, the metal buckles can scratch and dig into the wood finish. If possible, wrap the piece in a moving blanket. If a blanket is not available and there's excess strap, wrap the excess strap around the buckle to act as padding. It would be nice if the buckles were dipped in vinyl or covered in rubber.

- When moving items up/down stairs, have the person on the lower end take up more slack to raise the item higher. The person's face will likely be against the item, but it's a small sacrifice for an easier move. The person on the higher end needs to raise the item high enough to clear the top step. You might want to place a moving blanket on the steps in case you need to set the item down and readjust the straps, but be careful not to trip on it.

- Place moving blankets at the stair landings in case you need to set the item down, reorient the item, and/or readjust the straps. Get plenty of moving blankets if you have lots of fine furniture.

When we had our new appliances delivered, we noticed that the delivery people used the Forearm Forklift and it seemed to work well. It seemed a little quicker to set up because they didn't need to untwist the harnesses and figure out how to put it on.

With puffy sofas and odd-shaped recliners, we would choose the Shoulder Dolly again over the Forearm Forklift. There were many times that we had to pivot items to clear doorways and handrails. Our arms and hands were free to guide the items and to hold onto the stair handrails if needed.


Milwaukee 49-54-1035 Router Edge Guide with Micro-Fine Adjustment
Milwaukee 49-54-1035 Router Edge Guide with Micro-Fine Adjustment

9 of 9 people found the following review helpful
2.0 out of 5 stars Good grief, September 22, 2008
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I bought this Milwaukee edge guide from Amazon and it came in factory-sealed packaging. There is so much slop in the design that I doubt that a 1/128-inch adjustment is repeatable. Better yet, the fine adjustment knob on my guide had damaged threads and would not turn at all. The person who assembled it forced it into place. The knob is steel and the sliding part that it goes into is aluminum. The threads in the aluminum part were chewed up as a result. Both guide rods were also severely corroded at the ends and one rod was starting to corrode along its length.
Milwaukee seems to have really terrible quality control (if at all) in their router division. I'm crossing my fingers that the replacement unit will be in much better shape than this one.

UPDATE 6/09: Amazon could not send me a replacement and refunded my purchase. After additional research, I ordered a Bosch RA1054 edge guide. The Bosch rods are larger diameter and spaced farther apart and will not fit the Milwaukee router. I had a pair of 1/4-in stainless rods which will fit the inboard guide holes of the edge guide. The Milwaukee base takes a 5/16-in rod, but will take the 1/4-in rods. The fit isn't perfect, but I've used this setup on a number of projects already and it worked well for me. This is the design that Milwaukee should have used.


Milwaukee 5616-24 2-1/4 Max-Horsepower EVS Multi-Base Router Kit Includes Plunge Base and BodyGrip Fixed Base
Milwaukee 5616-24 2-1/4 Max-Horsepower EVS Multi-Base Router Kit Includes Plunge Base and BodyGrip Fixed Base
Offered by Toolup
Price: $253.53
6 used & new from $253.53

24 of 25 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Beware of lemons, September 17, 2008
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
After purchasing a Milwaukee Sawzall from Amazon and being very pleased with it, I was in the market for a router and was impressed with the Milwaukee height-adjustment design. My first purchase was a reconditioned 5615-81 1-3/4HP router. Although it was supposedly tested and inspected at the factory, there was a 3/4-inch long piece of metal rattling around inside the motor housing. It looks like part of a motor armature. Luckily, I discovered it before I plugged it in. It was fairly easy to remove, but Milwaukee quality control should have caught this.
Next, I decided to purchase this 5616-24 kit from Amazon. No rattle, but upon plugging it in and turning it on, there was a noticeable recurring vibration in the motor that increased with the speed adjustment. At the slowest speed, it pulsed about every half second and was strong enough that it would have disturbed cutting. The motor was also much louder than that of the 5615. I contacted Milwaukee Tech Support and they simply said that this was a variable speed unit with soft start, and deferred me to the local service center. Terrible.
Fortunately, Amazon customer service took the old one back and sent a replacement. The new kit arrived today and is smooth and buzz-free. Again, Milwaukee quality control should've caught the problem before shipping it out.
As for the rest of the kit, this and the 1-3/4HP kit are the best deal if you need both the plunge and BodyGrip bases and the clear sub-bases. The height-adjustment wrench and dust collector are of limited use to me. I still need to reach under the table to loosen the clamp before adjusting the height. The dust collector looks and feels really cheap. It is held in place by a U-shaped piece of metal which clamps to the edge guide holes. When using the edge guide, the U-shaped piece is removed and the collector is held in place by the edge guide rods. Speaking of edge guide, they should've included one, although the Milwaukee guide looks cheaply made. The gargantuan case will probably go into storage. The smaller case that came with my reconditioned router is much more handy.
The 1-3/4 and 2-1/4HP motors, bases, and accessories can be used interchangeably. If you look at the parts diagrams on the Milwaukee Web site, you'll see that the added height of the red cap is to accomodate the electronic module. The motor housings are the same, just a different armature and field. The soft start feature is more like a delayed start. After flipping the switch, just as you start thinking that the unit is defective, the motor comes on. There is still quite a bit of starting torque transferred through the grips.
The plunge base is excellent. Plunge is smooth and controls are well placed, and it comes with the 1-3/16 clear sub-base installed. My only gripe is the cheesy stop rod and stop screw. It looks like it was made in the same factory as the other router accessories.
Comment Comment (1) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Nov 8, 2014 5:36 PM EST


Milwaukee 49-54-1040 6-Inch Diameter,1-3/16-Inch Center Hole Sub-Base
Milwaukee 49-54-1040 6-Inch Diameter,1-3/16-Inch Center Hole Sub-Base

6 of 6 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Clear sub-bases, September 6, 2008
Milwaukee also makes clear 6-inch sub-bases for the 5615/5616 routers:

- Part number 49-54-1027 has a 1-3/16-inch center hole.

- Part number 49-54-1028 has a 2-1/2-inch center hole.

These clear sub-bases are supplied with their plunge/fixed kits but seem difficult to find individually from retailers.

You can also use other 6-inch or larger sub-bases that have the industry-standard hole pattern, but they might not have the cutouts for the above-table adjustment and the two rod clamp screws (used for the edge guide and dust shield/extractor). Holes can be drilled using the supplied sub-base as a template.
Comment Comment (1) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Dec 4, 2011 11:03 PM EST


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