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Nikon D810 FX-format Digital SLR Camera Body
Nikon D810 FX-format Digital SLR Camera Body
Offered by Woodward Camera USA
Price: $3,296.95
8 used & new from $3,128.49

29 of 34 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Is D810 really worth the upgrade from D800?, July 28, 2014
I recently bought a D810 after reading the review and I still own a D800. I also own a D3S, D600 and D300S.

This review is about whether D810 is really that much better than D800 and whether it is worth it for us to spend the hard earn money for the upgrade.

A Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8 is used for the test. Location: outdoor where sunlight is plentiful. Time: 3.00 pm. Setting: f8; 1/250s; ISO: 100; EV: 0.

The first impression I have holding the D810 is that: it is almost identical to the D800. Well, almost. For a hardcore D800 user, the immediate difference is the bump that allow your thumb to hang on to when holding the camera. It is now more prominent and has better ergonomic. More comfortable to hold. Nikon obviously heard our complaint and fixed this problem.

I switched on the camera and pressed the shutter the first time, I noticed another difference from the D800 - the sound of the shutter click. The D810 is softer, similar to the D600/D610. I can feel that the mirror movement is less violent; logically, it should translate to less camera vibration.

Then I reviewed the image from the first test shot, the image from the LCD is noticeably sharper. D810 obviously has a newer and more advance Expeed 4 processor without AA filter. Also, the higher resolution of the LCD helped to reflect the sharpness.

Most of the buttons in the D810 are in the same location as the D800, except the following: -

i.) an "i" (information) button being added to the D810;
ii.) the metering button is now on the left hand side replacing the BKT (bracketing button); and
iii.) the BKT (bracketing button) is now on the side of the camera just below the flash and above the D810 logo.

Going through the setting by pressing the Menu button, again, most of the functions are at where the D800 are. D810 has some added functions, such as electronic first curtain shutter, auto focus grouping, small size Raw, just to name a few.

Other improvements: -

1.) D810 has faster frame rate per second than the D800. It is more well rounded. However, it is still not a fast camera. It won't replace the D3S or D4 for sport photography.
2.) D810 should have a better IQ due to a newer processor. However, other than being sharper, I cannot tell the image quality is really better than the D800. D810 has the same sensor as the D800.
3.) D810 should have a better white balance. However, Auto white balance produces a warmer image than D800. I cannot tell the white balance is better.
4.) D810 has a better and quicker autofocus. It locked quicker than D800 even when pointed at the darker area where D800/E would hunt.

The D810 definitely fixed most of the "problems" previously associated with the D800E. However, for people looking to upgrade from a D700 or Nikon's DX DSLRs, they do have the options of getting a cheaper (due to price drop) D800/E for almost identical level of IQ. In fact, D810 and D800/E share so many similarities, they are perhaps 90% identical (It uses the same battery as the D800/E; the RRS L-Plate that used by the D800 can also be used with the D810). However, D810 has made minor improvements in so many areas, it is a slightly better camera than the D800/E in almost every way.

This camera is still better suited for landscape and portrait photography. However, the improved frame rate per second means this is now a more rounded camera than the D800.

Nikon has done a great job this time by retaining all the great features of the D800/E and made improvements to the weaker areas. Nikon D800/E is already a really good camera, but D810 is a really really really good one, if not a great one.

PS: Last night, I used the D810 to shoot burst to test the frame rate with Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8G and Nikkor 50mm f1.4D.

I used a very high ISO (10000) to make sure I have sufficient shutter speed to prevent blur. I noticed that for every five frames, there are patches of tints and shades in frame 2 through to frame 5 and this patterm repeat again in frame 6 to 10, and so on and so forth. The problem is reduced when the ISO is lowered to 8000, and become unnoticeable at ISO 2500. However, when I used EV -1.0 with the ISO2500, the patches tints and shades reappeared again. The patches of tints and shades I refer to are simiar to the effect of using PL filter with a ultra wide angle lense.

I heard that it could be due to wave length of the light, but mine is not about the change of white balance. it is uneven distribution of colour and funny colour.

Do you have the same problem?
Comment Comments (3) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Aug 1, 2014 1:10 AM PDT


Rado Hyperchrome XXL Automatic Chronograph Black Ceramic Mens Watch R32275152
Rado Hyperchrome XXL Automatic Chronograph Black Ceramic Mens Watch R32275152
Offered by Luxurywatchandclock
Price: $3,023.49
6 used & new from $3,023.49

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Irresistably beautiful - value for money, February 11, 2014
I have always been a fan of Rado timepiece. I also owned a few other Rado watches. My wife bought me this item as a gift.

Choosing a timepiece, like clothing, is something very personal. To me, the design of this watch is just irresistably beautiful, and the finish is flawless. It immediately attracts eyes of my friends and colleagues at work the first day I wore it. While it is not the cheapest timepiece around, it is "only" 1/6th of the Rolex Daytona Chronography that I was drooling.

The materials used in this watch (mostly high-tech ceremic and sapphire) is so hard that even after wearing it for a few months, it is still like new. Not a single scratch yet. I also have a similarly priced and equally beautiful Tag Heuer Carrera Carlibre 16 Automatic, which I wear it the same way (for work and during the weekend). It is not as scratch resistance as this one.

The material is also very skin-friendly. I am allergic to nickel-ricked stainless steel watches which cause rashes. This one if fine for me. It is an alternative to leather strap.

This watch is 45mm in diameter and is quite big and heavy. It is suitable for rugged use.

The display has a faint luminated effect. It grows in the dark and you can read the time even light is off.

It is an automatch watch, and it relies on our wrist movement to power the watch; otherwise, manually winding the watch is required to prevent from depleting the power reserve.

When it comes to time accuracy, I start it together with the Tag Heuer (which also uses movement from the Swatch group, same company as Rado) that I own and measured them my mobile phone. This Rado seems to be consistently a bit quicker after just a week (e.g., 30 seconds ahead of my mobile phone time and 10 seconds ahead of Tag). I was told that it is as accurate as a PP, VC, AP, ALS, Rolex, etc., which each is easily about 6 - 20 times the price of this watch.

The stopwatch function is as good as any other high-end chronography watches in the market. Nothing special. It is comparable to the Tag Heuer that i owned. Some people may said it makes the dial a bit too busy for easy reading of the time. It is a personal preference and a matter of getting use to.

Pros: -
1.) Beautiful design and finish;
2.) Afforadable/value for money;
3.) Friendly to skin (the back of this watch is sapphire crystal and the bracelet are made of ceremic) if you are allergic to stainless steel watches;
4.) Scratch resistance;
5.) It has a faint luminated effect on the dial and can tell time even in the dark;

Cons:
1.) Big and heavy (unlikely to be an issue for those who have a big wrist);
2.) It is an "automatic" and requires constant movement of wrist to power the movement (or you need to manually wind it regularly or get a watch winder);
3.) It is a chronography watch which the dial-display can be a bit too busy for some people to read;

Go down to a Rado shop and hold it in your hands. You will want to take it home.


Dramatic Black & White Photography Using Nik Silver Efex Pro 2 (The Lightweight Photographer Books)
Dramatic Black & White Photography Using Nik Silver Efex Pro 2 (The Lightweight Photographer Books)
Price: $3.99

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars Value for money, November 6, 2013
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
A value for money guidebook. I am an experienced B&W photographer using Nik Silver Efex Pro since a few years ago. Now using Pro 2. Even then I learned something new. Very worth it.


Nikon D800 36.3 MP CMOS FX-Format Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) (2012 Model)
Nikon D800 36.3 MP CMOS FX-Format Digital SLR Camera (Body Only) (2012 Model)
Price: $2,996.95
77 used & new from $1,749.95

48 of 57 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Have you used a DSLR with such a high MP before?, June 6, 2012
I am an owner of a Nikon D3S and D300S, both are 12MP and with fast frame rate. I have a range of fast/pro grade lenses. I focus mainly on landscape and [natural light]portrait. I also do quite a bit of street photography.

D800 is long awaited and fit in nicely the criteria of FX sensor with the size of a D300S.

There are many positive reviews of how good this camera is, and I agree.

For this "review", I will not go through the pros and cons, the pluses and minuses of this camera. Rather, I want to share the experience of jumping from low [12] MP, fast frame rate DSLR to one with 3 times the resolution and much slower frame rate.

To manage camera blur, the rule of thumb that we were taught is to make sure the shutter speed is at about 1/focal length of the lens. If one uses a 50mm lens, the the shutter speed should be around 1/50 of a second. It could be slower if the lens has a VR.

This rule of thumb does not work well with D800 due to the very high MP. I didn't know that before.

The first day I had it, I shoot it in a public park. I used it with a Nikkor 50mm f1.4D. It was a cloudy day, I shoot with base ISO of 100, Aperture prior at F/2. and my shutter speed at that time was about 1/30s. The images at 100% was blurry.

I bumped up the ISO to 200 and increase the shutter speed to 1/60s. Still blurry but better.

I gradually bumped up the ISO until it reached 400 and shutter 1/125s. Only then the shutter speed is fast enough to stop the blur.

The next day, I used it indoor with a volunteer model. I used a SB-700 flashgun with a Nikkor 85mm f1.4G, aperture priority at F/4, and the camera selected a shutter speed of 1/60s. Most of the images at that shutter shutter speed were blurry. With the experience the day before, I bumped the ISO up and increase the shutter speed to 1/160s before the blur subsided.

I discussed this issues with a few friends who also own D3X, they confirmed that based on their experience, it will be difficult to handhold a high MP DSLR without the shutter speed at least twice the focal length of the lens (i.e., 1/[focal length * 2]). I did a few more testing afterward and learned that to be absolutely free of blur, the "new" rule of thumb for minimum shutter speed without causing a blur when using a D800 is 1/[focal length * 3]. In layman term, if you use a 50mm lens, your best bet of having a perfectly sharp image is to shoot with a shutter speed of 1/150s. Of course, with VR, it can be slower.

This camera is better suited for certain situations than others. For landscape photography where we tend to use a tripod,you will not have the blur problems as I mentioned. But for street photography where you tend to handhold, just need to watch out the shutter speed.
Comment Comments (12) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Nov 15, 2012 9:29 PM PST


Nikon D3S 12.1 MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD and 24fps 720p HD Video Capability (Body Only)
Nikon D3S 12.1 MP CMOS Digital SLR Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD and 24fps 720p HD Video Capability (Body Only)
25 used & new from $3,095.00

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars The best money can buy todate, August 30, 2011
Before buying the D3S, I use D300S (and D90, D5000, and D60 before that).

I normally do landscape photography and I do some portraiture as well. I don't normally need high ISO, and I have a collection of fast lenses including the Nikkor 85mm f1.4G and 50mm f1.4G and D for portrait. Hence, D300S was enough for my requirements for a couple of years.

Things have changed, however, when I have a newborn baby boy 11 months ago. I can take beautiful pictures of his during the daytime when there is plenty of natural light, but not so during the evening or night time when the light is much dimmer. I don't use flash when shooting my baby's picture for obvious reasons. Without the flash, the fastest lens I have is still not fast enough, unless I bump up the ISO.

The D300S allows me to take clean pictures up to ISO 800. Anything beyond that, however, give me noise which has affected the sharpness of the images. Since I already have fast lenses, I want to have a FX camera body capable of doing higher ISO and D700 seems to be the next logical choice. However, I wasn't sure I want to pay for something that may be replaced by a newer product the next day. While, I have been very patient in waiting for a D700 replacement, which it didn't come out (as many have speculated on 24 Aug 2011) my baby son is growing up fast everyday and having fun moments that I just don't want to miss anymore.

So, I set aside the thought of the possible D700 replacement, and decided to get a D700 instead (since it has fantastic review too), except it was out of stock everywhere. D3S was available, so, I bit the bullet and bought one.

Even though jumping from D300S to D3S seems like a big step, D3S is not that much disimilar to a D300S from a handling perspective. Most of the functions in the D300S are also found in the D3S. The new functions in the D3S are incremental, which are not too difficult to figure out. With a full size body, it does have more fuctions that you can set using the designated button on the body, as opposed to going through the camera menu.

With battery, and a Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8 attached, the D3S weighs about 2.7kg (5.94 Ibs).

With the D3S, I can shoot images at ISO 3200 (the lowest ISO for that lighting condition), yet with noise less than the D300S at ISO 800. With a bit of post-pocessing, the images are actually very clean (close to images take at ISO 400 using the D300S).

This camera has everything that I want and need and I will have no regret even if it were to be replaced by a newer camera tomorrow. This camera is quite expensive, but it is worth it for me because the capture of playful moments of my baby son is priceless.


Nikon 85mm f/1.4G AF-S Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR
Nikon 85mm f/1.4G AF-S Nikkor Lens for Nikon Digital SLR
Price: $1,613.55
8 used & new from $1,450.00

22 of 26 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars The Best Portrait Lens todate, December 25, 2010
I shoot with a D300S (i.e., DX) and the lenses I used for portrait before this Nikkor 85mm f1.4G are: Nikkor 50mm f1.4D and f1.4G, Nikkor 60mm f2.8 macro, Tamron 90mm f2.8 macro, Nikkor 105mm f2.8 macro, Sigma 150mm f2.8 macro.

I bought this lens mainly to take picture of my two-month old son.

Since I have never owned a 85mm lens (either 1.4D or 1.8D), I can't provide a meaningful comparison; hence, my review is purely based on how image quality (sharpness, colour, bokeh), auto-focus speed, and build of this lens.

The parametre of the testing: I set the aperture to f1.4, ISO 400, using natural light. The main subject is a wine bottle with a basket next to it and a second wine bottle. Pictures are taken in door handheld. I have posted the picture for your reference.

1.) Image Quality. Pictures taken with this lens are extremely sharp. At the largest aperture, it gives you a very nice blurry background/bokeh and the subject in focus seems like just "popped" out from the picture. Bokeh is smooth and creamy, and the colour is rich and contrasty. I have also included two pictures of butterfly shoots for your reference.
2.) Auto-focus speed. It is fast, accurate and quiet under low light condition; however, I have better experience with Nikkor other lenses, such as the Nikkor 70-200mm II f2.8G, Nikkor 50mm f1.4G, as I feel more assured with them. It is until the AF is locked and you heard a "beep" that tell you your image is sharp.
3.) The size of this lens has grown from before (I compared it to the 85mm 1.4D and 1.8D) but still manageable. Well build but not too heavy. It should balance well with a D300, D300S, and lighter camera such as D90, D7000.

A couple of observations: -

1.) One the things I have experienced using it wide open (i.e., f1.4) with this lens is that the shallow depth of field can be very thin and any slight movements of the subject will cause the image to lose the sharpness. Hence, practicing how to use this lens properly is important.
2.) For indoor shoots during night time, even with all the light switch on and set the aperture at f1.4, I still need ISO of between 500-1000 to take decently sharp images with my DX format DLSR.

The copy that I bought has front focus issue (i.e., the area of sharpness is in front of the area you focused). Instead of making adjustment on my camera, I sent it (together with my camera) back to Nikon for re-calibration (I got the lens and camera back from Nikon within 24 hours, in case you want to know). It is now razor sharp. I raise this just in case this is a common problem for this lens.
Comment Comment (1) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Sep 6, 2013 9:08 PM PDT


Nikon 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S Nikkor Zoom Lens for Nikon Digital SLR
Nikon 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR AF-S Nikkor Zoom Lens for Nikon Digital SLR
Price: $1,046.95
39 used & new from $775.00

386 of 406 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars A good travel lens (but it has breather issue), September 19, 2010
I am a seasoned hobbyist, who is a frequent visitor to national parks. I have recently gotten myself a copy of this lens.

1.) Basis of this lens review

I use Nikon D300S and D90 so my review will be based on DX format of Nikon's camera.

I do not intend to provide review on the technical aspect of this lens as I am not a professional reviewer. I am sure you will get plenty of technical reviews from many other websites.

This review will be based on my day-to-day photography experience.

2.) Compare it to: -

Nikkor 70-300mm VR and Nikkor 18-200mm VRII, both of which I also own.

I acknowledge that the 28-300mm is not directly comparable to 70-300mm and 18-200mm, but due to the overlaps of the focal range, many people will try to draw a comparison among them and decide whether they should keep the existing ones they have or sell them to get this one, instead.

2.1 Size and build

The 28-300mm is relatively compact considered the focal range it covers. It is shorter than the 70-300mm when "folded". They are about the same length when fully extended. The 28-300mm is a bit heavier. The 28-300mm uses a 77mm filter size, which is common for most pro-grade lenses. It is about the same size as the 18-200mm but heavier.

2.2 Image quality

I tested the 28-300mm against the 70-300mm and 18-200mm at three different focal lengths: 70mm, 200mm, and 300mm. I set my ISO to 200, aperture at f8 and f11, all on a tripod with VR turned off. Some of my subjects were 15 m/50 ft or more from where I stand, some were 5 m/16.7 ft, some were 1.5 - 3 m/5 - 10ft, and some were as close of 0.5 m/1.67 ft.

Based on these settings and conditions, I found the image quality (especially, the sharpness) of 28-300mm and 70-300mm being indistinguishable. Hence, from my perspective, the IQ of this lens is at least as good as the 70-300mm, if not slightly better. It is definitely better than the 18-200mm. The 28-300mm, however, produces better colour and contrast then the other two.

2.3 Lens breathing

In my side by side comparison with the other two lenses, I did experience "lens breathing" issue. The 28-300mm is a heavier "breather" than the 70-300mm, even the 18-200mm.

At a closer distant (e.g., 1.5 - 3 m/5 - 10 ft), and focal length set at 70mm, 200mm, and 300mm, images from 28-300mm are much "smaller" than those of 70-300mm, and 18-200mm.

Based on my test, at 15m/50 ft, 300mm in a 28-300mm is equivalent to 260mm in a 70-300mm. At 1.5m/5 ft, 300mm in a 28-300mm is equivalent to about 170mm in a 70-300mm. However, unlike the 70-300mm, the 28-300mm shouldn't be used with a TC. Hence, it does have limitation to extend the focal length beyond the 300mm.

People who also own a copy of 70-300 may not be too happy with this especially when you can draw a side-by-side comparison of the images produced by these two lenses.

2.4 Bokeh

Tested it against subjects (flowers and birds) placed in front of trees/plants with their leaves reflected with sunlight (the subjects are normally 1 - 3 m/3.33 - 10 ft in front of me, and 5 - 10m/16.7 - 33.33 ft in front of the trees/plants). While, his lens is capable of creating nice bokeh but nothing outstanding. Compare it to the 70-300mm, I like the effect of the 70-300mm better, but then, this is the subjective part and you may have a different preference/taste.

3.) Who is this lens for

This lens is perfect for people: -

- Who needs a large focal range to shoot a wide variety of subjects;
- Who wants to travel light;

This lens is in particular useful for people who frequently use a focal range of below 70mm and more than 200mm.

As a frequent visitor to national parks, I often ditch the heavier Nikkor 17-55mm and 70-200mm combo, and brought the 70-300mm and 18-200mm with me instead. Even then, I often found myself in a situation where I need to shoot a wider angle for certain landscape shots, but suddenly, certain wildlife/birds appeared and I need to zoom all the way in to take close up shots of those subjects. I often missed crucial wildlife shots while changing lenses. I solved that problem by carrying two cameras with me!

However, with the introduction of this lens, the day of me having to carry two cameras should be behind me now.

I think the zoom range of this lens is wide enough for certain landscape shots and is long enough to zoom in to birds on the tree or deer in the forest. If you can bring only one lens to any national parks and that it could cover most of the ground, I think this is the one.

I have posted a few birds photos for your reference.

Although this is a very made consumer grade lens, it is not meant to be compared to professional grade lenses, such as the Nikkor 17-35mm f2.8; 24-70mm f2.8; Nikkor 70-200mm f2.8, just to name a few. If you need that level of sharpness, weather seal, then this lens is not for you.

4.) Others

The autofocus is accurate and quiet. VRII works smoothly as any other VRII lenses I own (e.g., Nikkor 18-200mm VRII, Nikkor 70-200mm VRII). I didn't encounter strange noise as reported.

This lens is capable of taking very close up images. Even at 300mm, the shutter can trigger at about 0.5m/1.65ft. However, you will have the breather issue as mentioned above.

Below is the change of aperture relative to the focal length (it's on an approximately basis): -

- 28mm f3.5
- 40mm f4
- 50mm f4.5
- 70mm f5
- 105mm f5.3
- 106mm and above f5.6

5.) Conclusion

This is a very well made consumer grade lens. If you need a good travel lens (e.g., if you are a frequent visitor of national parks), then this lens should be on top of your list, as long as you bear in mind of its limitation: if you need to either shoot wider than 28mm or longer than 300mm. For the former, you still need to pair it with a wide angle lens; for the latter, this lens won't replace the 70-300mm, as it is not suitable to pair up with a TC.
Comment Comments (16) | Permalink | Most recent comment: May 2, 2014 7:01 AM PDT


Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II AF-S Nikkor Zoom Lens For Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II AF-S Nikkor Zoom Lens For Nikon Digital SLR Cameras
Price: $2,396.95
38 used & new from $2,055.00

9 of 11 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars A fantastic but heavy lens, August 15, 2010
I wonder whether there is anything about this lens that has not been said before.

I jumped into the bandwagon a couple of weeks ago and got one myself. I used it over the last two weekends in some parks.

Majority of the people have very positive experience with this lens, and a handful of the people, not so.

I belong to the majority group, and have very positive experience with this lens. This lens is that good. It is extremely sharp, it is fast, and capable of producing some of the most beautiful images I have ever seen. It also works well with teleconverter. I have a Kenko 1.4x. The combo gives me a 280mm focal length (420mm in a DX) and I lost only 1 stop of light. I have posted two images, one with the use of a TC, one without.

I bought this lens in a store. I didn't bring my own camera that day as I didn't expect to buy a lens. I went there to get other items, and saw the store owner took one out for display. Out of curiosity, I check that out. The owner of the store has a D3, and he lets me played with the lens. I was so impressed, and on the spot, I just have to have it.

I want to share a bit of experience on the portability of this lens. People talk quite a bit about the weight of this lens, which is about 1.5kg (3.3 Ibs). So, I know it is heavy, but I didn't realise that it is THAT heavy until I hold it in my hands.

Some people talk about not wanting to walk around with this lens due to the weight (it will give you a sore neck or tired arms). I have different type of problem: when attached to my camera, which is a D300S, I have a feeling that the sheer weight of this lens might rip the aluminium mount off my camera, if I don't hold it.

Hence, I have difficulty in setting my camera (EV, WB, aperture size, from A-priority to S-priority, frame speed, etc.) without resting my camera/lens on a solid platform (e.g., my wife's shoulder, or a monopod/tripod), as I need to free up the hand that hold the lens to hold down certain buttons in order to access those functions. May be I just need to learn how to hold a camera attached with lens of this size.

On a separate issue, the "breather", I don't think it is going to bother people too much if they don't own a previous version of this lens (the VR I) and compare them side-by-side. I don't have the previous version of this lens.

IQ is more important to me than the weight and so breather issue, and I am glad that I decided to get this lens - it is the best I owned to date. For people who plan to get one, I suggest you go to a store and hold it yourself/mount it to the camera that you own. If weight (and assuming the price too) is not an issue, you should definitely consider getting yourself one.
Comment Comments (2) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Aug 19, 2010 10:03 PM PDT


No Title Available

33 of 33 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Great improvement and a worthy purchase, August 15, 2010
I also owned a Manfrotto 322 Joystick head, and my review will be based on the comparison between the two.

1.) Function/weight. If you are already familiar with the 322, the 324 works exactly the same way as the 322, only is much lighter. It will fit better with a lighter weight tripod (e.g., a Manfrotto 190 models/Benro Travel Angel/Gitzo, etc).

2.) Quality. The 322 is made up solid steel which can take the roughest handling. The 324 seems quite solid in its own right, but it is definitely not made of solid steel, and I have my doubt whether it could be used as the same way as the 322.

3.) Ergonomic. The handle in 322 is quite flat; while the 324 has a much better ergonomic. The holding of the 324 feels better than the 322. Having said that, however, the 322 has it advantage of being "flat". Both side of the 322 have holes to allow you to change the "plate holder" by unscrewing it and screwed it on the other side; hence, allowing you to have the option to navigate the joystick head with either you right (default) or left hand (if you decided to change it). The 324, however, takes away that option. With the 324m, you are now limited to only squeezing the "trigger" with you right hand.

4.) Weight capacity. The 322 can take much heavier weight and thus heavier lenses. The 324 is for smaller lenses. Nonetheless, it handles the combo of Nikon D300S and the Nikkor 70-200mm VR II (the heaviest pair that I own) with a combined weight of more than 2kgs (4.4 Ibs) without problem at all. I don't know how would it performs with camera/lenses heavier than the Nikon D300S/Nikkor 70-200mm VR II combo, but I don't think it wouldn't have much problem with up to a 3kg load. Anything heavier than that you will want to use either 327, or stick with the 322.

To me, it is a worthy purchase and it makes the reason a lightweight tripod more justifiable - what's the point of buying a tripod that weight less than 1kg (2.2 Ibs) but paired it with a joystick head, such as the 322, which weight almost the same weight as the tripod?
Comment Comment (1) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Aug 10, 2011 12:41 AM PDT


Nikon Coolpix S8000 14.2MP Digital Camera with 10x Optical Vibration Reduction (VR) Zoom and 3.0-Inch LCD (Black)
Nikon Coolpix S8000 14.2MP Digital Camera with 10x Optical Vibration Reduction (VR) Zoom and 3.0-Inch LCD (Black)
24 used & new from $64.95

9 of 12 people found the following review helpful
4.0 out of 5 stars A compact alternative, March 22, 2010
Verified Purchase(What's this?)
I own two DSLRs and was looking for a compact digital camera to take with me when taking a DSLR is not convenience.

I compared a couple of brands (Panasonic and FujiFilm) before finally decided on this camera. The first impression of this product is that it has a relatively fast shutter lag, and fast start up compared to other compact. The crystal clear 920,000 dots LCD, 10X zoom and VR lenses are the added bonus and impressive for a camera of such size.

The image quality is very good; even on all auto mode, the IQ performs very well. It is also performing relative well under low light situation. This camera has good ISO performance of up to 800 and suitable for situation where there is enough light (e.g., indoor or museum). In a setting where light is dimmed, e.g., a church, you might need to crank the ISO to 1600. At that level, you will see quite a bit of noise.

I was also impressed by how well this camera is capable of taking macro pictures. I can take a shot only a couple of inches from the object. This camera is quite easy to use with various fancy and fun setting options.

In conclusion, it performs quite well in a low light situation but will struggle in a dimmed light environment unless you increase the ISO. Nonetheless, whether you buy this as a main camera, or as a "take-around" camera when you don't want to bring a DSLR everywhere, this camera is a pretty good choice.
Comment Comments (2) | Permalink | Most recent comment: Mar 27, 2010 8:17 AM PDT


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