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Just got the drill (DDS181-102L set), and started playing with it. The set comes with a 2.0A slim battery - a nice surprise to get a higher-capacity battery than promised 1.5A one. The box is spacious and sturdy, and light at the same time. The drill looks and feels close to what other reviewers got to say about it. I always wanted a Bosch drill.
I am concerned about the chuck outside sleeve wobble. It noticeably wobbles to a point of slight drill vibrations at high speed. The drill bit seems straight despite of this. I need to look around to find if it is a normal behavior, or I need to return the drill for replacement.
First - some good words about the device. One of the best features of the device is that it has a power/sleep button that places it in sleep and wakes it up almost instantly. This is a great power saving feature. Looks like in the sleep state the device can spend several weeks until the battery discharges. So when I want to use it, it spends just several seconds to re-lock on the satellites. My other older GPS took several minutes to achieve the same as it had to perform a cold boot.
Life map updating software works great, it updates the device firmware at the same time (if a new version is available). Note that internal memory capacity is not enough for the latest maps of America, I had to buy a 4GB micro SD card for the external SD slot. Otherwise you need to make a decision which part of the map to flash on the device.
Now is my biggest complaint about the device - the way it enters search address. It is so radically different than other ways proven by millions of GPS users.
So it asks you to enter a house number first, then a street, and then it spends some time searching for a list of cities with this street address. Now imaging you need an address something like 110 Main Street. How many fits it will find? What if you need a city far away, in a different state? Of course you can keep entering the search city (and state), but time is already spent.
The most irritating about this entry way is that device no longer helps you to find matches. It does give a list of suggestions as you type a street name, but often you spend more time browsing through the list then just typing the whole name. If I need a Main Avenue, it would list something like "Main", so when I press on it it no longer asks if it street or avenue, so I have to get back to the street entry and add this info.
My 5 year-old car navigation system (not Garmin) gives an amazingly simple entry way - you pre-select state and enter city, street, number. Once the device knows your destination state/city, it grays out the letters that are not used, so typing becomes very simple, and is very quick to give you a list of possible city and street names (as it has a much smaller database list to select from). Extremely simple and useful!
As Nuvi 2455LMT allows user to update its firmware - Garmin, please change your address entry method!!! Or at least give us an option to revert to the search entry way I described above. Once this happens, I will change my rate from 3 starts to 5.
Update: I decided to downgrade my rating to a one star - it keeps to be EXTREMELY irritating to enter address to this unit - it offers no usable help during entry, as it has no idea what you are looking for (using just a number of a house in the beginning). If I knew that it operates this way - I would NEVER have bought it. It is a pity - the hardware itself is very decent.
Got those speakers for my 2012 Ford Focus SEL 5 door, because I really liked components JBL GTO608C 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System that I installed in the front doors. I use a stock head unit - non-Sony with Sync, driving 6 speakers. Overall, installation in the rear doors was very easy, as I used the OEM speaker baffles. High sensitivity of the speakers is evident - I can hear increased sound level at the same volume settings. So far the speakers seems like a nice addition to their "cousins" in the front doors - they (GTO628) add low and mid frequencies nicely to the overall sound. Highs from GTP628 are not as evident because there is no line of sight to the rear door mounting location when I am in the driver seat.
But I noticed one very important discrepancy in the speaker installation instruction - its picture for the wire polarity swaps "+" and "-" wires. It is very important, as swapping them may lead to drastic decrease in the low frequency response from all speakers as perceived by the car occupants (see below why this is). May be this explains why some people report something like "no bass response from the speakers" after they replaced their car OEM speakers, all because they followed the installation instruction wire polarity.
The installation instruction (you can get it from the JBL website when you search for GTO628 product page there) shows a particular "+" and "-" wire connection to the speaker. It seems that it draws the speaker from the magnet side. I believe that the correct wire connection would be when the same picture draws the speaker from the front (membrane) side.
Here is my evidence:
1. When I examine the speaker tabs, the small white board (where all wires solder to) has a "+" sign engraved on it, and it does not coincide with the instruction-suggested location;
2. I used a 1.5V battery to test the speaker polarity - the speaker membrane should move up if the battery "+" terminal touches the "+" lead of the speaker. Result - the speaker "+" engraving pointed to the correct positive terminal.
3. GTO608 woofers have a particular "+" and "-" tab arrangement (you can get GTO608 instruction from JBL website) that agrees with the GTO628 engraving, but contradicts to the GTO628 installation instruction picture.
Some basics behind speaker polarity: if even one woofer speaker in a car is connected backwards, its membrane moves in the opposite direction than those of the rest of the speakers. At low frequencies, this leads to "canceling out" the sound wave as, for example, it tries to "pull" the sound wave at the same time as the other speakers try to "push" it.
I am very puzzled as to why manufacturer made such an error, and hope that JBL reps browse our reviews so they can correct the instruction. Otherwise more and more people will complain about "lack of bass response" in their review - all because of the incorrect speaker connection.
Edit on 05/28/13 - forgot to mention - remember to remove sticky transparent film from the magnet back - otherwise when the speaker is exposed to hot summer temperature, the film will curl up and fall inside the door, potentially blocking one of the door drain holes.
Edit on 05/29/13 - I agree with a reviewer who noticed decreased low-frequency response after replacing the stock speakers. I just got a rental Camry and was amazed by the car stock audio system bass intensity, even at moderate EQ bass settings. My body has shaken. Especially when this bass comes from a small speaker with paper cone and a tiny magnet (I could see 2 of them from inside the trunk). It seems to me that stock speaker designers tune the speaker impedance to the factory head unit (more on the speaker impedance is below). This would lead to very powerful bass, but makes mid-frequency response quite distorted. In general, speakers with smaller magnets (like stock speakers) may have a better low-frequency response (reason for this is quite complex).
Each speaker has a very complex effective impedance curve, usually it peaks at low frequency (around 80-100 Hertz it can be as high as 20-100 Ohm for a large-magnet speaker with a 4 Ohm nominal impedance). This relates to the speaker membrane and driver design. Modern solid-state amplifiers present a 0 Ohm load to the speaker, meaning that speaker no longer can freely move around this peak, or resonant, frequency. This is so called "damping effect of a solid-state amplifier". Speakers with smaller magnets generally less prone to the damping effect at the peak frequency, so they can be moved by amplifier much easier in the usable bass range(50-80Hz). This is an oversimplified explanation of course.
So GTO628 speakers may easily feel greater damping effect at low frequency than the stock speakers do. Result - decreased bass response (it is still there, it is just attenuated). Solution - to use an external amplifier that can deliver proper (higher) gain at low frequency (some amplifiers allow boosting curve right at the speaker resonant frequency). Or to use a dedicated subwoofer. I personally like neither of the options, so I just enjoy very clear mid-highs (with some hints of bass) from the GTO speakers driven by the factory head unit.
I bought this camera for my 2008 Rav 4. It turns out that the camera holder is not designed properly for this car. To start, the key hole for the license plate light socket is not cut right - I had to cut grooves for the socket myself - can't imagine that many people want to do this. Second, the holder accepts the socket in vertical position - Rav.4 does not have enough space to accommodate the socket in this position (the original holder keeps the socket at 45 degree angle). I had to cut excess from the socket to fit it inside the rear door (dangerously close to the wires). Third, the holder is not cut right for the rear door - it is seemed to be held there by friction, not by properly shaped extension tabs and locks as the default holder is kept.
So it took me about an hour to install the camera, but after all this trouble the camera shows a good image with good coverage. I like that it is shifted toward the spare tire - it makes it easier to assess the object locations behind the car. It is sensitive enough to show low-noise COLOR image at night using just the car backup lights. It also has color lines (green, yellow, red) to visually guide you to keep proper distance to rear objects.
So in conclusion - a good camera with mediocre enclosure. It is possible to fit it inside Rav. 4, but be prepared to do some cutting and fitting. If the manufacturer re-designs the enclosure, it will be a terrific product.
I got this product for my new car, as it was the only backup sensor I could find that does not require the car body modification.
I was pleased to find that the packaging includes 2 wire splicers that I was going to purchase separately, as well as a rubber gasket in case you do need to drill a hole in the trunk to pass the power wire though.
Installation was easy - I passed the power wire through the license plate light fixture without any drilling. License plate fits the frame nice and tight. The included long screws were handy to attach the license plate due to increased distance because of the sensor frame. Please notice that some cars use different screws for the plate mount - you may need to buy matching longer screws.
The sensor is quite sensitive - I back into a shrub area, and the sensor picks up reflection from the shrub branches - very impressive. The buzzer has two settings for the volume - one is adequate for a minivan or SUV installation inside the cabin, and the second is loud enough if you install it inside a sedan trunk - in fact, it is loud enough for people outside to hear it as an extra indication that a car backs up. The two sensors can be tilted independently up and down (no tilting horizontally) - allowing for a custom sense area tailoring.
Since the installation there were several heavy rain storms, and the sensor works as before (all the electronics is inside the frame) - so it has an adequate weather protection. After my purchase of the sensor two of my friends got the same product, and so far they are happy with it as well.
One feature of the product - it has a slight delay registering an obstacle - this means that car needs to back up relatively slow to allow the sensor to react.
I tried researching this product prior to the installation, and concluded that it works only if it is applied to the metal surface - for vibration dampening. It does not work as a sound barrier like other thicker sound damning materials do. So it seems to me that some recommendations to apply this product to the car doors look misleading - they show the product being installed in place of the door vapor barrier. The inside panel of the door has lots of openings and crevices, and the mat is not going to block the noise when it just covers a large opening. The best place to apply the product to a car door - is the inside of the outside sheet of metal the door is made of.
I tried to cover as much of the door surface is I could, using every leftover piece in the hard-to-reach places. I also applied some of the product around the speaker grills, and on the plastic grill spacers to kill the sound resonance.
I installed this product to my RAV4 car in steps:
- Front doors. It decreased the front tire noise considerably, but the noise shifted to the back. It was very uncomfortable, it felt like increased noise pressure right behind me.
- Rear wheel wells (inside of the car compartment). I noticed that the car had almost no soundproofing in those areas, so the tire noise leaked inside. Result - the overall noise pressure decreased somewhat, but now I could hear very directional road noise coming from the rear doors. The doors edges facing the rear wheel wells allow the noise to leak through.
- I applied the product to the rear doors, paying special attention to cover the door edge (covered both surfaces inside of the door) opposite of the hinge side. Result - the directional noise decreased a lot, so there is just uniform muffled road noise inside of the car, quite comfortable for my ear.
Of course the wind noise is now much more pronounced - side effect of the road noise decrease. My next plan - to cover the hood under the stock hood liner (the metal there sounds like an empty can) to decrease the engine noise, and add more lining inside of the tailgate to decrease the road noise even further.
The more I use the mouse the more I admire the product ergonomics. It feels just right for a netbook mouse - small, responsive,very comfortable in my hand, with a great tactile feel of the buttons and the scroll wheel, and the right weight - not too light and not too heavy. The side rubber finish has just a correct level of traction for my fingers.
It does work reliably on fabric and carpet - this is my usual environment when I work on my couch. The scroll wheel has a very smooth rotation, something I find very pleasing to work with. The side button (BACK function by default) is exactly where it should be for my hand.
The only thing I would change in the design - increase width of the scroll wheel. My finger tip becomes too sensitive after a day of working with the mouse because the wheel is too narrow - too much pressure on the finger tip.
I also got a rechargeable battery for the mouse, as the regular battery discharges in several month.
I got this weather station today and quite satisfied with it so far. Some update on the station features that are outlined wrong in the unit description:
1.This unit supports just manual time entry, not Atomic time auto sync as advertised;
2. The remote sensor sends just temperature data, not humidity as it can be interpreted from the description (it displays just the inside humidity level);
3. The remote sensor runs on AA batteries,not AAA batteries as described (just a minor discrepancy);
Although I am a bit disappointed that those features are not present (and hope that Amazon adjusts the item description accordingly), I still like the station look and the feature set. I also ordered temperature/humidity remote sensor La Crosse Technology TX28U-IT. Although it will not display outside humidity on the WS-9730U-IT unit, it will show it on the built-in LCD display, so I can at least get the data once I need it.
The router now sits in the corner, and I almost forgot about it. The reason - it just works with no issues so far.
It was easy to set up, it automatically found all the right settings to connect to my cable modem (once I figured out that I needed to power cycle the modem after I connected the router to it). I manually changed all the WLAN security settings to use an advanced encryption. Similar to the previous reviewer, I did not use the installation CD.
Now the router pairs nicely with a laptop (WLAN N) and a desktop (using another great TP-LINK product - 150Mbps USB adapter TL-WN722N). Desktop reports 150Mbps link all the time (about 30 feet distance), and so far I experienced no dropped connection, despite having many active WLAN routers around my apartment. During installation, I looked for the least used WLAN channel and set the router to use it.
I did an extensive research to find the best moderately priced 300bps WLAN N router before choosing this product, and so far I am very happy with my choice.
I got this set of brake pads for my 2008 Toyota Rav4. I noticed that the car brakes feel "soft", despite the brake system being inspected and flushed. When the front brake pads needed replacement, I installed a set of Napa brake rotors and pads, but noticed no improvement in the braking feel. So I decided to replace the rear OEM brake pads, despite that they were just 1/3 worn.
After the replacement with these Monroe brake pads, I almost immediately noticed a difference, the braking feel improved considerably, with a good initial grip. No squeaking so far.
I got these brake pads with a rebate, and the final price gave me a really high ratio of quality/price for the item.