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I own the QSC k8 tote bag and QSC K8 Outdoor Cover, but end up almost only using the outdoor cover. The tote bag probably wasn't worth the cost to me since 9 out of 10 times I'm transporting with the outdoor cover. The stitching, pockets, thickness, and quality are perfect on both products.
The benefits of the tote versus outdoor cover:
-Slightly easier to carry in the tote, but not a factor carrying < 500 feet
-The bottom of the speaker is protected during transport
-Looks a bit more professional
Benefit of outdoor cover instead of tote:
-Always ready to keep tunes flowing if light rain is in the forecast
-Slightly smaller which may matter if packing k8's/sub/gear in a car trunk
I use this to stream while bicycling. It's a shame it only works with Apple products as my home computer is PC and after some fairly extensive searching I don't think the hacker community has come up with any way to use this as webcam with Windows.
The UStream account is free, but viewers will have to watch a 45 second commercial, or have AdBlock installed. Some of the Amazon reviewers saying you need a paid UStream account must have been from an old system. I don't pay a monthly fee to Ustream.
The iphone app is not 100% intuitive, when in doubt just always push the "ok" or "next" button. I can understand why one Amazon reviewer thought he/she had to use an unsecured wireless router connection. Just keeping pushing "next" and it will prompt for the wireless password eventually. After the wifi setup is done once, the camera remembers and auto-connects in the future. It's very fast to start and stop with the large button on the camera.
I use the "Personal Hotspot" feature on my iphone 5 to connect. It works well and when connected to LTE could stream at the "medium" quality setting without dropping frames (I use low quality to not burn through my monthly data quota). I tried streaming at 720p but there was too much frame dropping.
My only real complaint is that this thing is hard to mount. There is an oval shape below the camera so it can connect to a plastic stand that sits on a desk. There is no type of mounting for mobile streaming included or available, and the oval shape below the camera makes adding a custom mounting system surprisingly more difficult. I might be the wrong type of user for this camera, but I thought one of the appeals of a battery powered wifi cam would be remote streaming in situations like mine that need a mount. It took some trips to the hardware store to get something setup on my bike.
For those reading in 2014 and beyond with similar intentions as me, the GoPro cameras are supposed to be coming out with wifi streaming functions (and some in the hacker community have already gotten this to work). GoPro also had hard plastic around the camera, the Logitech Broadcaster feels like one high drop to cement could ruin it. Overall it's still a great cam, battery life is good, optical sensor is good (good dynamic color range, white balance), zoom feels like around 40mm which is standard or maybe a little on the wide side for a webcam, and 720p works great without frames dropping or compression artifacts if connected to a good internet connection. I'm subtracting 1 star for lack of mounting options and only average or thin quality casing.
As of this writing in July 2013, I've logged about 200 night miles with this light. I'm not a super rider that does 50 miles to work in the dark every every morning.
This light has three brightness settings, and so far I've found going all the way to full 700 Lumens output to be overkill. For context, a car headlight (in standard/low-beam mode) is typically 800 Lumens. I think there is a ceiling somewhere around 500 to 700 Lumens where ability to look left and right starts to suffer a little. I've only rode at the full 700 lumens once and it was when someone in our group had a light go out (he rode slightly in front & to the side of me). Having the full 700 lumens was worth it for that ride, but I've had it at the lowest setting every other time.
I like this light because the distribution is wide and even. I also have a 130 Lumen Cateye light, which leaves pretty dark shadows outside of the 8' radius oval of light in front of my bike (and at the 130 lumens, some small cracks are not visible within the 8' circle). With this Cygolite, I get a larger oval radius of light. In terms of safety, brightness in Lumens is important, but I think surface area covered by the light is equally important, and that's what makes the Cygolite so great.
If I was doing it over again, I'd consider the 300 Lumen Cygolite's to save money. Other Amazon reviews here have indicated these lights can break, and it makes me a bit nervous having such an expensive quick-release light (that is a hassle to take take with every time parking/locking). As stated above, I'd consider the 300 lumen version if doing it over, but you can always use this 700 lumen version on a lower brightness setting and know you could cover a friends path in a pinch! I'm really happy with this light.
I've had these a little over a year and they have held up well. Diesel has many of these sneaker/dress shoe hybrids, and this "Eagle Loop" version is one of the cheapest. As of April 2013 I've owned:
Diesel Men's Excurse Athlesure (bought in 2009, trashed in 2012)
Diesel Men's Eagle Loop (bought in 2011, still wear)
Diesel Men's Korbin II Sneaker (bought in 2012, still wear)
All three of these are good with jeans or business casual. The material used in the Excurse and Korbin II may be better quality, but in my opinion doesn't look any better.
The main downside to the Eagle Loop is that they are not as breathable. In the summer they can't be worn many days in a row without starting to smell (that's true with any shoe, but the Korbin's breathe better). The Eagle Loop's also had a squeak on every step that lasted for a couple months after I got them but it eventually went away.
Overall because the style is just as good as the versions that cost 2x or 3x the price, the Eagle Loop is probably better value.
This is my 3rd "tall" thermal top purchase and is the first one that covers all the way down to my waist. I got a large-tall and it fits perfectly. I'm 6'4" 190lbs male with probably a bit more of my height in torso (wear 34" length pants). Ideally I'd like another 1/2" of length, but these still get the job done.
The fabric is identical to the off the shelf thermal's that are common at stores like wal-mart so nothing special there. It doesn't itch, but standard thermals have not felt itchy to me either. This is the only tall thermal I've found that fits well.
This ball is useful for dim courts, but this appears to be due to the neon green and reflective white... it doesn't really "glow" unless charged under very bright/direct light.
A moonlit volleyball game is likely impossible, although maybe with 2 or 3 of these balls that sat in some type of flashlight recharge chamber between points it could work. "Glow in the dark" technology has apparently not improved from the childhood toys I remember 20 years ago... it lasts 60 seconds at most.
I've played with two other types of balls:
Spalding 72-083 Official Volleyball of King of the Beach and USA Beach Tour
Wilson Official AVP Game Volleyball
The Spalding and Wilson are similar to each other but both cost 3x as the Misaka glow in the dark ball. Digging a hard spike (and absorbing the ball rather than swinging at it) would result in this ball shooting up 10 to 15 feet instead of 20 to 25 with the Spalding/Wilson. I disagree with reviewer "Tripwire" who said the ball is softer and may be better for players afraid of getting hurt. The Wilson is softer and Spalding is much softer(but again cost 3x as much). If you are in a competitive league, do not use this glow in the dark ball. A hard 50mph spike could jam a finger or cause a bloody nose.
The above said, I still use this ball for recreational play when it's a bit too dark for a regular ball.
unrelated - I like the Spalding slightly more than the Wilson because it doesn't hurt/sting as much (probably just because it's slightly smaller). One of the Spalding reviewers claims the Wilson gets blown around more by wind, but I think they are about the same. The main criticism of the Spalding is that it can get bent into an oval shape which I've noticed. This may mean the true cost of the Spalding is higher if they have to be replaced more often.
unrelated 2 - I've played outdoor for about 5 years at a place with 20x courts (and not quite enough 30' stadium lights, hence this glow in the dark ball). I play on a couple recreational teams with co-workers/friends and one competitive league (with mostly people that played competitive college). When playing recreational league on a court far from the stadium lights everyone is happy to use this glow in the dark ball, but I'd never use this ball in competitive.
I wish these were a little longer. I'm on the tall/skinny side, but these are still 1" to 2" above the top of knee and makes me feel like I'm in the 1970's. Fabric isn't thin so I don't think they will wear out after a year of use. I didn't realize they don't have pockets when I ordered....Read more
This pointer worked for about 2 weeks of light use for me. I never dropped it, but the beam started getting dim so I put fresh batteries in & pushed the button... but nothing happened. I opened it up & made sure batteries were right way and tried again, holding button down for about 10 seconds and then the base got really hot! I waited a moment then opened it up and the batteries were too hot to touch!? They are eneloop AAA's and went from 100% to about 85% according to my charger. (I did a full discharge & recharge with my charger and they are powering a flashlight fine now)
I might have received an unlucky 1 out of 100 faulty unit. It was a good pointer while it lasted, not noticably brighter or dimmer than other cheap pointers I've seen. The red dot was more of an oval than circle (not sure what else to say in a laser pointer review). Hope that helps!
For reference my rig was built around quiet components (especially while idle)- a single solid state drive, Asus gtx 670 DCII (under 25dBa idle), fanless powersupply, non-overclocked processor with after market passive cooling. All-in I spent about +$100 solely for noise reduction.
The Good: Airflow is okay and the pwm ramps up and down very smoothly using fan controlling software. It's capable of running at a very low RPM, unlike another pwm fan I had a long time ago that would shut off when reduced to about 40% power. The LED is the right brightness level IMO. Build quality is solid, was easy to screw in/out.
The Bad: This fan makes a very quiet clicking noise. I ordered two and originally had them at the top and back of my case, but moved them to the front and bottom for better noise insulation. They are quieter but still barely audible in the new positions (case is insulated fractal design mini). The clicking is quieter than access noise from a standard hard drive, but because the clicking is about 2x per second, it's more annoying if audible.
For anyone with a reference high end graphics card, or any fan above about 1500 rpm, or multiple standard platter hard drives, this clicking would likely be impossible to notice. Like mentioned above, it's slightly quieter than hard drive access noise.
(and FYI I'm probably going to keep using these fans, just not near exterior of case... if there is any music/noise at all, no chance at hearing them. Even with dead silent environment they are almost impossible to hear).
Maybe I've been spoiled with my Sennheiser HD 435's (about $100 in 2004 and still using them in 2012), but using these Thermaltake's are disappointing. Audio sounds high pitched and hollow.
I'm giving them 2 stars because the build quality is good. The double loop on top is very comfortable(most comfortable headphones I've tried for use above an hour), the cables are sleeved, there was a clip-on microphone included, and the paint job is at least as good as the picture implies. If only the manufacturer had used $10 speakers instead of 75 cent speakers...