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Note: Although this is an older model headset, I am posting my review on what you should consider when shopping for a mic/headset combo device (sometimes called a "gamer's headset"). These "shopping factors" have not really changed over time; and neither has Logitech. IMO it remains a great company putting out quality products for consumers.
Moreover, for the price point of these ($40 to $100 nowadays) they have not changed all that much over time. (To be sure, there's not much they can do to jazz up or "modernize" a keyboard, mouse, or headset, which including webcams, happen to be Logitech's claim to fame.
An added benefit of these older models, you can find them in like-new condition here or on auction sites (you know who I mean :) for as little as $20. (A few weeks back I bought a like new, used Logitech headset for $20 shipped, that sold a few years back for $150 retail.)
AND NOW MY HEADSET REVIEW AND BUYING GUIDE
You can't go wrong with Logitech microphone/headsets. The main things I am looking for in a headset, which Logitech always provides, including in this 350 Premium (in order of importance to moi):
- Microphone RECORDING quality
- Form factor quality
-- Microphone quality: This is a top priority for me because I mainly use these headset/mic devices with Dragon Naturally Speaking dictation software and to make Skype phone calls. (I have never used these for gaming, but I have read gamers like Logitech gaming headsets.)
Dragon dictation works more efficiently the better the microphone (The software picks up my words and makes fewer errors.) Matter of fact, the microphone/headset that came with Dragon Naturally Speaking was a POC compared to even this older Logitech 350. (That's fine. DNS is already expensive enough, they would have to tack on another $100 if they were to include a quality Logitech headset.) I digress, forgive me.
Skype: On phone calls listening and talking quality is paramount. I cannot sound "cheap" to people on the other end, nor do I want them to sound like they are talking into a tin can.
Talking on the Phone: With the 350 (and my other Logitech headsets) listeners have told me I sound good. This is because Logitech uses quality mics.
-- Form factor, quality: It is all a matter of opinion, so in my opinion Logitech headsets look high and feel high tech. You can tell the Company puts a lot of money into engineering and design on its products. In contrast, there's all kinds of low-priced, (barely) functional mic/headsets on the market. Those feel like they are priced, cheap.
I have always been pleased with Logitech's quality. Everything is well-engineered and the quality in the design and materials is evident.
(Warning: Apparently everyone else (including friends and relatives) can see and feel the Logitech quality. I have had friends "borrow" my Logitech headsets, never to be seen again (the headset, not the friends). And my brother-in-law loved my $90 Logitech lighted keyboard so much that he has failed to return it after just wanting to "try it out to see if he liked it." That was two years ago.
So keep an eye on your Logitech stuff.
-- Durability: Some headsets cost as little as $10. But as with wine in a milk carton, you get what you pay for. Those cheap headsets fall apart soon after purchase because they are not made to last, nor withstand the slightest abuse.
-- Connectivity: I always use USB headsets because the ones that connect via the mic and audio ports on a PC sometimes have connection issues, so I have to spend three hours trying to figure out why my mic won't connect to the software I am attempting to use. With USB I have never had a connection issue.
Bonus Tip: Does your old headset have 3.5mm plugs instead of USB? For less than $5 you can get a "3.5 mm to USB" connector/adapter that "converts" your headset 3.5mm plugs (audio - green color port; recording - red color port)into a single USB plug that you connect to a PC USB port.
-- Listening: Since I do NOT use these Logitech headsets for listening to music or watching movies "CD audio quality" on playback is NOT important for me. (For music and movies I use dedicated headphones or earphones; that connect to my PC or smartphone in the 3.5 mm port, on computers typically colored green.
But to the extent I like to actually hear voices of people I am calling on Skype (without feedback, hissing, or other tin can sound degradation), speaker quality does matter. On Logitech's mid-range and higher priced headsets I have never had a problem with sound quality. The 350 Premium did not disappoint in that regard. But this is me. If YOU want an all-in-one headset to serve all purposes (including listening to music)read other's reviews on music playback quality.
- Comfort: Most of these Logitech headsets are comfortable and can be worn for long stretches. However, if there's one con with the 350, I noticed the earpieces were heavier than others that I have, so after 30 minutes or so I found myself readjusting the headset and even taking them off to give myself a rest. The 350s are "beefier" and heavier than the other pair of Logitechs that I have (that look similar). The 350's weigh about 1.5 ounces more than the other set, so I guess that makes a difference in the comfort department.
Also, I found the headband clamped the earpieces tighter on my ears. That headband's "springiness" being tighter resulted in my wearing the 350 a little tiring after 30 to 45 minutes.
- Price: You get what you pay for, so I did not mind forking out more money to get the Logitechs. For something like this I would not buy simply based on finding the cheapest set on the market.
- Features: There's a volume control on the 350, also functions as an on/off switch. That's a nice touch, but I did not consider that an important part of the decision when buying a headset,
Bottom Line: I would not gamble when making a headset buying decision. The safe bet is to go with Logitech. The company has been around a long time and they make quality products. (Support is great too.) Regardless of which headset you go with, if it is genuine Logitech you can't go wrong.
For example, I have a Logitech 250 model headset that we have used since 2004. It still looks and functions like new. That's a quality product.
Disclaimer: I also have used since day one Logitech's trackball mice (I must have about 30 of those, bought over time since 1993). And love Logitech keyboards (their lighted model being my current favorite). Guess I'm a Logitech fanboy.
I can't believe the flavor of the dark amber maple syrup. It is so delicious that once you try this stuff you won't ever go back to the imitation maple flavored garbage.
Note on price: While the price per bottle may seem expensive, it is not that high for what you get. And it is like many things, you get what you pay for.
Bonus Tip: If you really want to sin, here's my recipe:
1 can whip cream.
1 bottle Coombs Dark Amber Maple Syrup
1 large tablespoon
- Close curtains for privacy.
- Remove whip cream and maple syrup from fridge, place on kitchen counter.
- Hold spoon by handle.
- Fill half of spoon with syrup.
- Spray remainder of spoon with whip cream. (For extra pleasure add more whip cream.)
- Insert spoon into mouth. Savor.
I have been getting cases for all my phones over the years. Usually it means compromising size because no matter the case, it adds bulk to the phone.
On those cases that were advertised as "slim" or "form fitting," those have ended up too thin, cheaply made, and/or the tabs holding it to the device would wear out or break off, resulting in the case fitting loosely to the phone.
I bought an elago white case for my Samsung Note because I saw it on my friend's Note. I was impressed by the quality of construction, the iron fist way that it wrapped around the Note, and that it added little to no bulk to the Note's already slim form factor. Matter of fact, when I first looked at his Note I was NOT aware that he had an elago case on it (his was titanium gray, so I initially thought that was the Note battery cover, not an after-market case.
I was so impressed with this I have now bought five colors, so I can do a color change of my Note whenever I feel the urge. (I have solid white, solid gray, and the breathe case in dark green, titanium gray, and silver.)
An added bonus was the price. Here on Amazon the cases were $7.99 each, which is far less than what sellers were asking on flea bay (US $18 to $25!)
Bonus Tip: I have always attached lanyards to my devices, as a theft deterrent (thieves will pass on trying to grab my device when they see a lanyard holding it to my wrist), and as damage control (when walking about I have the device secured to my wrist).
Often times I end up melting holes into a plastic case so I can attach a camera lanyard. But with these elago cases I simply loop the thin lanyard cord through one of the various openings on the case, such as the openings for volume, the plastic divider between the camera lens and flash, or the slot of the power on/off switch.
I bought this when I was in one of my "just because" impulsive buying moods. It is definitely worth the money.
I have real guns, including some Colt ACP .45 Next to the real thing, from the distance you can't tell which one is real, which one is a toy.
There's good detail to this gun and for the price it is a hoot to shoot when confined indoors due to rain.
WARNING: Never shoot these at pets, never point this gun a people. Never display this gun in public (in some states and cities that is a crime).
When shooting indoors I am using a target box I made (large box filled with bubble wrap.) And I make sure no one is around when shooting.
Lastly, in regards to power, I don't think this would pop a balloon at more than ten feet, if that. If you want a target pistol that doubles
as a varmint shooter, this is definitely NOT the gun to buy.
I bought two of these because I needed a room dividing effect for the kitchen and on the opposite side the dining area, that I am using as a home office spot (L shaped desk, computers, etc.)
These were perfect because it creates a hallway effect. When I walk down the small path, with the kitchen on the left, the "home office" on the right, with these decorative panels it feels like one is walking down a hallway instead of it being one large area.
For those of you who have open areas like a kitchen, or if you live in a studio apartment, these things are great to create the impression of separate rooms.
You can go with these or the way more expensive room dividers. (The nice room dividers cost $200 to $400.)
Lastly, these obviously must fit your decor. These are considered modern, artistic, space age, mod or what have you. But if you are reading this review you must have determined these fit into your apartment's look.
Bonus Tip: In terms of install, the biggest hassle is screwing in the foundation board (on which you attach the panels)into the ceiling. Use a power screwdriver for that. The panels attach to each other with small black ball (beaded) chains, similar to those beaded ball key rings hardware stores sell. If there's one flaw to this product, it is that the chains are very delicate. Any bumping into this divider, the chains might snap (aka break). So make sure that where you hang this is not going to suffer people, animals, or objects bumping into it. The whole thing may come tumbling down.
Bonus Comment: At this price, as you may suspect, the panels are textured, painted, pressed fiber board. If you want the real thing, such as walnut veneer, I'm sure those products are out there, but be prepared to spend $600 to $1000 for a set like this.
Guess I'll go in order of what was important to me when buying my first portable A/C unit.
Cooling: My residence has two large picture windows facing east and I'm on the top floor of the building. It gets blazing hot about 30 days a year here in San Francisco, so my place gets like an oven. So good cooling was critical. (If you are curious, without A/C on the hot days it would get a stifling 80 to 85 degrees in my rooms! Alas, that's the price I pay for having an otherwise full water view of the San Francisco bay, Bay Bridge and east bay foothills. The 15' x 10' windows provide a great view, but they act like magnifying glasses (even with blinds that block the heat, and a fully insulated ceiling). The only benefit of the heat in my place, as the old saying goes, "it is a dry heat." I am thankful for that because I HATE humidity.
I have always used window A/C units, about 5000 to 8000 BTU each, one in the living room, one in the bedroom. (My latest units were small 7000 BTU Panasonics. They work great and I simply figured it was time to replace them, being that they are about 2004 units.) Wanting to update I decided to get a portable unit, first for the bedroom, to see how it would perform.
This Haier unit gets the bedroom ice cold and if I leave the BR door open it cools the next room somewhat. How cool is that? Very. (Note: the BR is about 200 SF.)
Dependability: My Haier unit has been left on 24 hours, without incident. And I have had it for 18 months. I last used it about 8 months ago. When it got hot here a couple days ago I plugged it in, it fired right up and again ran 18 hours without incident. I was the coolest cat in town, literally and figuratively.
Set It and Forget It: I like the controls. I set it to the desired temp, the thermostat works perfect, cycling the cooling on and off according to the temp setting.
Features: While mainly concerned about cooling performance, I did want a unit with a remote, temp settings, thermostat (rather than a high, med, low switch), digital display, and fan speeds. This Haier comes with all these features.
Noise: While I did not want a unit that was super noisy, noise emission was not a critical factor. But I was pleasantly surprised that this Haier unit can operate quiet. Yeah, when the fan is set to full blast it is noisy, but hey, it is an A/C unit. If it is making lots of noise, that's because you are running it full blast. As an indication of noise level, if I have it running full blast and I'm in the next room, I don't notice it. I have to walk into the BR to see if it is on.
Keep in mind, however, an added benefit of the noise is that it acts as a white noise machine. You get used to the sound and it pleasantly drowns out City noise, which here in San Francisco there's a lot of. So when you set it on at night, it is like taking an Ambien. It lulls you to sleep. (It is kind of the same effect as falling asleep when on a jet, or on a train. The noise emissions of those travel modes can put you to sleep, so much so that my noise making machine has "train mode" where it sounds like you are in a train sleeping car., with the hum of the engines and clacking of the wheels on the rails.)
Value: I bought my unit on sale for about $270. What a great deal. I wish I had bought two of these units. Oh well, but I will buy another Haier unit because the Company has proven itself.
Portability: The unit is on wheels and actually quite easy to move around. While the footprint is somewhat large, hey, it is an air conditioner not a stereo. I was not expecting this to be the size of a microwave. In any event, it does roll around with little effort, although once you have this placed where you want (and where the tubing can vent hot air outside through a window) you are not going to be moving it much.
Bonus Tip: I am going to experiment with another one of these and run the exhaust hose up the stove hood. That's because I have a computer area next to the kitchen and there's no window nearby, so when trying to figure out a solution I looked at the kitchen hood. I can remove the fan and run the A/C exhaust tube into the circular fan opening that runs to the roof of the building. Yeah it won't look pretty, but I'd rather feel cool than look it.
Instructions: This was easy to unpack and all I made sure to do was remove all the tape and foam around the unit. So I did have to read the instructions to make sure I did not miss anything. Otherwise, you plug it in and turn it on. It is that simple. Matter of fact I turned it on without the exhaust tube connected to a window. The exhaust air was broiling hot. Kind of silly, one end was blowing ice cold air, the other end blowing air hot enough to cook with. But I wanted to try it out because that's what guys do.
Bragging Rights: I enjoyed calling my friends who were suffering in the heat, saying "Wow is it cold today or what. Hold on, I have to put on a coat. Oh wait, that's my A/C unit, never mind." (I then heard the phone click. How rude for them to hang up on me. Was it something I said?)
Bonus Tip: If your place is going to get hot later in the day, turn on your A/C BEFORE it gets hot. These A/C units work a lot better if they don't have to cool down an 80 degree room. I'm a lot more comfortable if I don't wait to turn on the Haier until AFTER it feels like an Easy Bake oven in my place.
Bonus Tip: To give this A/C unit a little extra circulation (to where it blows air into the next room, not a lot, but some) I place a little portable fan on the table next to this unit. I then run the fan on high. This adds about 1/3 more power to blow and circulate the cool air around.
I originally considered accusing the Company of selling a defective product, until I realized that this toaster was accurately named and advertised.
Back in the 1940s and 50s toasters were notorious
- Burning bread;
- Uneven toasting;
- Nothing toasted, on the first try.
- Bread getting stuck inside the toasting mechanism;
- Inaccurate controls (the dials being better named "Press Here for Mystery Toast");
- Confirming the maxim "where there's smoke there's fire." In fact, with this toaster the slogan on the box should declare "With This Toaster When There's Smoke, There Will Be Fire."
So you see, the manufacturer (some Chinese peasant working for $10 a month) has correctly advertised this toaster. It is truly a retro toaster. With it you can travel back to the 1950s and experience exactly what people put up with back then. (See above.)
Bonus Tip: For the maximum retro experience disconnect your smoke detector. Back then they did not have smoke detectors. You will ruin your "retro ride on the Nostalgia Electrics train to the 1950s and all stops in-between" if your smoke alarm starts wailing like a speared Medusa's head.
I researched the heck out of these Hannspree HDTVs before I took the plunge. (Up until these I had my 42" NEC plasma monitor, that I paid $6,000 for in 1999. I also had 19" LCD TVs too. So now I was ready to buy a few large screen TVs since the prices were $500 for a name brand medium grade HDTV. (42"+ high end units going for $1200 to $1800.)
What caught my eye was these being on sale at CostCo in 2011-12 at $239 for the 28" model, $179.00 for the 25" unit. Those were great prices and the specs were impressive for a true 1080p HDTV.I determined that the specs were sufficient for these to be used as computer monitors too. So I then set about researching HannSpree because until the CostCo ad I had never heard of them.
It took some research but I finally found out that Hannspree was going to break into the U.S. market under its own name, so they were saturating the market with HDTVs and monitors at dirt cheap prices. Prior to this, I found out, Hannspree has been supplying HDTVs to major manufacturers (Sony, Panasonic level companies). Those companies would slap their name and logo on to these Hannspree units and sell them for $700 to $1000.
Review: On reviewing TVs or electronics, I don't look at things in terms that I don't understand. I figure if I don't know which pixel types burn brighter than others, then you won't be interested in that information.
What I do is before buying I research the Net to see what other consumers and actual home users think of a product. Over time I have learned that for use as a computer monitor it was important to consider response times (in milliseconds), max resolution (how small you can make the fonts, and large without a pixelated look), refresh rate it can handle, and brightness.
For use as a TV or disc player it was important to look at contrast, aspect ratio, and the number/variety of outputs. Most critical, I knew to look for the phrase "true 1080p HD." I was aware that some manufacturers "hack" or "uptick" through "trickery" that a 720p TV is 1080p. How to tell this false claim is to see if the box advertises "TRUE" 1080p. k
So when I initially saw the Hannspree had all the specs to look for and it had an el cheapo price, I was skeptical. The old saying came to mind... "if something sounds too good to be true, then it isn't (true)." But everything I saw about the Hannspree, including why these deals were available, indicated these were a must have, must buy.
Initially, I bought one 28" unit, intending to put it through its paces, both as an HDTV, BluRay player, and computer monitor.
As a TV
This has been FANTASTIC. Now I am not one to be able to compare brightness, lumens, how TVs are back-lit, if they are, nor even audio in terms of surround sound effect or whatever.
I base the quality of a screen from having watched all levels of TVs, from Goldstar TVs of old, to top-of-the-line Sony Wega units. The picture on this TV is amazing, especially for the price point. (Keep in mind I am not one to compare the Hannspree pic with that of a $1800 Samsung unit. My eyes are not that discriminating. All I know is what I see. The HannSpree HDTV signal (from ComCast HD TV cable, via the HDMI output to the TV) is bright, crisp, sharp, detailed, and the contrast is deep and rich. If I want I can do the aspect ratio that gives me the "widescreen movie theater look, what some of you know as "letterbox.")
The audio is sufficient, again considering the price point. (Nowadays I think most manufacturers assume people connect their TVs to surround sound systems.)
I have a mid-range graphics card, that is connected to this HDTV via an HDMI cable. These have been great for use as a computer monitor. And I use two of these as a dual monitor setup. These make great computer monitors. And at this price point it is insane. (Back in 1999 I recall paying $1200 for a 15" LCD Viewsonic monitor.)
Perhaps the best testament to how impressed I was with these HDTV/monitors: Not only did I tell everyone I knew about this deal, I mentioned in in a magazine article published on setting up a dual monitor system on one's office, but I put my money where my mouth is. I bought five of these units! I have one on the bedroom wall, two as a dual monitor setup, one as a HDTV / video player next to my computer monitors and gave one to my neighbor as a gift.
Enough said :)
I bought the Bosch Tassimo T-Disc single cup coffee and beverage maker (chocolate, teas, etc.) I am so pleased with this system. And I LOVE the Tassimo Gevalia Latte pods (T-Discs).
What I like best:
-- There's two discs used for each cup of coffee (latte), one is the REAL MILK creamer, the other espresso.
-- This gives you the option of having an espresso ONLY, should you choose. Simply don't use the included creamer disc.
-- The strength of the espresso or milk is separately adjustable. Simply hold the big, shiny button when the green light is flashing (flashes after the initial brew) and the unit adds more steamed water to the espresso and/or the milk.
-- The milk in this latte pack is real milk, not powdered crud like other machines use! IMO it imparts a better, more genuine coffee house flavor to the latte.(Bonus Tip: The milk has been pasteurized at extremely high temperature. That gives it a longer shelf life, but still only about six to 10 months - do NOT refrigerate or freeze. So if you buy these off of eBay or here, ask the seller the date code on the side of ANY package containing dairy (hot chocolate, creamer discs, etc.) since you do not want to get a package close to the shelf life expiration or worse, with expired dates.
-- If you want a latte quick, you can be sipping a just-right (not too hot, not lukewarm) in about two minutes from adding the first disc. To avoid fisticuffs on who goes first in the morning or in the break room, there is a dual coffee maker that brews two cups, side by side.
-- Unlike other machines, the Bosch Tassimo machine(formerly made by Braun) has a bar code reader that reads the bar code on the label on each disc. The machine reads the bar code and knows what it is supposed to do in terms of how much water to add, how long to heat, etc. How cool is that! Very! For example, if you insert a 12 oz. coffee T-disc, the machine automatically knows to add 12 ounces of hot water to the brewed coffee. If you insert an espresso disc (which comes in this latte package) the machine adds just the right amount of water to make an espresso like you would find in an Italian cafe (about three tablespoons of water). If you need to wake up in the morning have an espresso, you will be gritting your teeth, driving 80 mph in the car to work).
-- COFFEE FLAVOR IS EXTREMELY SUBJECTIVE. One man's elixir of the Gods is to another Satan's poison. So these coffees are like romantic relationships. Only you know what you see in someone and you are not going to base a relationship on what friends, family or co-workers think of your significant other. Same goes for coffee. Why on earth would you buy coffee, or not, based on what a total stranger (that's me) thinks tastes good. You need to make up your own mind on what tastes good to you.
So what I recommend is that you buy a sampler and find out what you like. After that, then buy packs containing 8 to 14 cups of brew. (Because I like a lot of Half/Half in my way-too-strong coffee shop coffee, I ended up loving these Gevalia Latte T-Discs (but I also happen to like Gevalia coffee). You may like the Maxwell House coffee or the Gevalia Morning Roast blend (I find the Gevalia Morning Roast way too strong for my tastes. I found that with the 12 oz T-Disc I was cutting the 12 oz brewed coffee in half and adding 4 ounces of Half & Half like I had been doing at Starbucks, for example. So that coffee is NOT for me.)
-- These individual coffee machines are the rage for making coffee. It is great in the office break room, or for couples who want fresh cups of coffee each morning but not a full or partial pot (making a partial pot is a hassle). I predict that all other coffee makers, except for making big pots for four to ten people, will fall by the wayside. Even with large groups I predict most people are going to want a coffee made to order.
-- It is also a fantastic way to save money. Each cup of coffee costs less than a dollar, on average. That's far less than paying $3 to $5 at Starbucks.
-- The package indicates the product is made by Kraft Foods. IMO that's a name you can trust and it will back up the product.
-- Do NOT refrigerate, do NOT freeze (the creamer disc will explode rendering them unusable).
-- The date code (expiration date) for the creamers (that are a real dairy product, not powered MRE cr#p) is clearly displayed on the side of the package. On mine just bought on 12/02/11 the date code is Aug 05, 2012.
-- You can also lose weight with these machines? How is that? Well I don't know about you, but when I used to get my morning and afternoon cup of coffee at Starbucks I would also cave and get a sweet roll of some type. So by not going to the cafe I cut out the temptation (and eventual desire) to get a lemon bar or carrot cake. Cutting out two sweets a day, that has to result in significant weight loss.
-- These are cheaper online than, for example, at my local supermarket. For an Eight Latte pack (8 espresso, 8 creamers) I paid $12.99 at my local Safeway. Of course at Safeway I had the latte pack in hand immediately, no waiting for shipping. So for me in an emergency Safeway will do albeit that significantly increases the PPCOC.
Sidenote: These machines are a win win. The coffee machine manufacturers and producers make a lot more money because these discs give us far less coffee (per pound if you want to use that measure). But we win because of convenience, weight loss, and also saving money by not spending $10 daily at the cafe (coffee and a sweet). Even a coffee by itself cost about $3 to $5 here in San Francisco, so cutting that expense is significant.
Office managers, this is a reason to get one of these types of machines. And arguably productivity will go up since employees won't be leaving the office to get a coffee. And making a coffee with one of these machines is fun. So it might even boost morale (the first few months will be trying because you will have to determine which T-Discs people want. There might be fights if two employees argue over who gets the last latte in the pack.
Just a caution for you all, if you intend to use these chips for camcorders or cell phone video recording, make sure the chips are a minimum Class 4, or ideally Class 6 or 10. For file storage or file transfers Class 2 chips are fine, but I would not use Class 2 cards on newer devices that require a faster SD or microSD card.
Bottom line first: I have some of these cards (bought because of the price and even I can't resist a good deal on cheap storage), but also Class 4, 6, and 10 chips. (In fact, my review of this chip is based on owning about 300 chips (or cards if you prefer and using chips back in the days when 2 MB chips were $90, yes, I said "megabyte" :)
The caution you have to take is that if you are getting these chips as a primary or principal card, keep in mind that its speed rating may be insufficient for use on SOME of your devices. (E.g., some cell phone camcorders record video fine, others require a faster chip, such as Class 4 or 6).
An SDHC's "Class" rating is its performance based on how fast the chip can transfer digital information on or off the chip. Why is this important?
In layman's terms some Class 2 chips are too slow, on some devices. Basically, Class 2 SDHC chips (even brands brand name cards) cannot record/transfer modern-day HD video digital information fast enough. Your video will record with lag and play with lag ("lag" means delay or choppiness).
Transfer rates (sometimes called "speed ratings") for the current chips are:
Class 2 = 2 MB per second file or digital information transfer speed.
Class 4 = 4 MB per second.
Class 6 = 6 MB per second.
Class 10 = 10 MB per second.
Interesting: Until recently most chips have had the Class rating imprinted on the label. It's the letter "C" with a number 2, 4, 6, 10 inside the C loop. Also until recently it was only chips from questionable manufacturers who did not identify the chips speed rating on the label (because those chips were typically low speed Class 2 chips). That's why it's not cool for SanDisk to be doing this, hiding the fact that a chip is Class 2. (Of course SanDisk is simply doing what its customers want, providing a high capacity chip at the lowest possible price.)
Sidenote: Some device manuals will warn about the minimum Class (speed) a chip/card should be, some manufacturers do not clearly disclose chip speed requirement for video recording/playback.
Pricing: Generally the faster the chip the more expensive it will be. If a card is 16GB for $20, that's usually a hint that it is a Class 2 or 4. As you may have correctly assumed, brand name cards with high capacity (32 GB), Class 6 and 10, from a reputable seller are going to be way more expensive than chips with one or all of these factors missing. That old saying applies here: "you get what you pay for."
And no offense to people, but if you think that because a chip is 32 GB and says "SanDisk" on it, that the card must be good, well, that makes as much sense as thinking $100 digital camera must be good because it has "12 Mega Pixels" emblazoned on the front.
Bonus Tip: On eBay there's thousands of sellers in China selling counterfeit chips (estimates are that 90% of eBay chips are counterfeit. Chips that are labeled SanDisk when they are not, Class 6 when really Class 2, etc.)
So I would buy chips from an established seller on Amazon, someone who sells only chips and has been doing so for a long time, and who has great reviews, or buy from your local retailer. More expensive, for sure, but that's better than the 90% chance you will be getting a fake chip on eBay.
If you do buy on eBay, NEVER buy chips from Hong Kong sellers, including the ones who post a fake U.S. address. A hint that something is amiss is to ask yourself how a Hong Kong seller can list on eBay cards for 1/10th the price that U.S. online sellers require to purchase the supposed same chip. (And remember that the Chinese sellers are very good at making the fake product look like the real thing.)
Bonus Tip: The "HC" in "SDHC" has nothing to do with speed. The "HC" designation came out when chips went over 2GB. It stands for "high capacity."
Bonus Tip: Class 2 chips will in fact record video. On older devices a 2GB chip was state of the art at the time, so in 2009, for example, a phone or camcorder will record quite well using Class 2 chips. But in these days of 720p and 1080p true HD recording, even on cell phones, a Class 2 chip may not do. (Note: some manufacturers include a warning on the device, including in the video troubleshooting section, that a chip may be too slow for some recording settings).
The way you will find out that you needed a Class 4, 6, or 10 MB/s chip is when you play the video. It will be choppy (and some videos won't even play).
If you get poor playback, the culprit is usually the Class 2 chip. (Also, poor playback can happen if you are playing the video on your PC directly from the chip, that is, rather than transferring the file to your PC then playing it from there. If the chip is too slow, simply transfer the file to your PC then play the video.)
Bonus Tip: Ideally always buy Class 4 or greater chips. More expensive, yes, but the performance can range from better to outstanding. Plus while any chip can transfer files from the chip on to the computer, the higher speed chips transfer files a lot faster. That's a huge benefit when transferring HD video, that can get up to 4GB in size.
Note: Ever wonder why some devices limit the length of your video, say to 10 minutes? That's because the device cannot handle large files and/or the chip may be too slow to work with files 2GB or larger. Easiest workaround for device manufacturers, limit the length of your video.