Your Garage botysf16 Amazon Fashion Learn more nav_sap_plcc_ascpsc $5 Albums Fire TV Stick Sun Care Patriotic Picks Shop-by-Room Amazon Cash Back Offer WienerDog WienerDog WienerDog  Amazon Echo  Echo Dot  Amazon Tap  Echo Dot  Amazon Tap  Amazon Echo Introducing new colors All-New Kindle Oasis AutoRip in CDs & Vinyl Segway miniPro STEM

Your rating(Clear)Rate this item


There was a problem filtering reviews right now. Please try again later.

on June 10, 2014
There's a lot of confusion about what's in the box, and about what adaptors you might require. The terrible instructions add to this. So, I had a few interactions with the manufacturer, Anaheim, including with their Director of Operations, who settled these issues definitively. (You WILL have parts left over.)

You've got three hoses to worry about, only the first one is interesting:

1) The cold-water supply line to the faucet (the braided/blue hose) has a 3/8" male compression fitting. Let's look under YOUR sink:

IF YOU HAVE A 3/8" SUPPLY LINE installed (e.g. from a saddle valve or a T) you'll use no adapters or fittings: If the copper tubing has 3/8-inch outside diameter, it goes right onto the hose, using the nut & brass ferrule provided.

IF YOU HAVE A 1/4" SUPPLY LINE (MORE LIKELY!)then you need an adapter (not included). Anaheim Manufacturing (Waste King) recommends the Watts LFA-157, available here on Amazon.

IF YOU HAVE NO INSTANT-HOT SUPPLY LINE YET, I suggest you install a tee with a 3/8" compression fitting. The LASCO 06-9111 looks right, to me, if your kitchen faucet's supply line has a 3/8" female compression fitting (most do, these days). This tee goes between the faucet and its supply. Optionally add a stop valve, unless you want both your faucet and this hot-dispenser to share a shut-off. (This would be more robust than a saddle valve. I don't trust any such self-piercing things.) But read on...

NOTE: The water tank's supply hose has a MALE compression fitting, so it will accept that 3/8" O.D. copper tubing, but it's the opposite of the female fitting that's probably on your faucet hoses. So if you have a shutoff valve or a tee (like the Lasco 06-911) with a 3/8" (male) compression thread, you'll need a short braided supply hose with 3/8" female compression fittings on each end to resolve those two males. That's the USUAL faucet supply line, so it's easy to find. For example the LASCO 10-2512 here on Amazon.

2) The braided/red hose, from the faucet to the tank's corner, has a 1/4" compression fitting. This can go DIRECTLY onto the 1/4" stud on the tank, using the nut and ferrule provided. You ignore that white quick-connect fitting, here.

3) The neoprene hose, from the faucet to the tank's center, attaches directly to the tank, with a clamp. Again, no added hardware is needed; just the two clamps provided.

ELECTRICAL NEEDS:
Of course you'll need an electrical receptacle. It should be a GFCI, for current code, sure, but also for safety. Bear in mind that this tank draws 11 amps when it's heating. If it's on a 15-amp circuit, it shouldn't share that circuit with anything: your dishwasher or your disposal will overload your wiring. If you share a 20-amp circuit with both your dishwasher and your disposal, you are very likely to trip your circuit breaker if you use your disposal while the dishwasher is running, and if you're unlucky enough to have this hot-water tank kick in at the same time.

If you can install a dedicated outlet, that would be best. But you should not hardwire this unit (despite some comments elsewhere); cutting off the plug to do so would violate warranty and electrical code, and would be discourteous to anyone wishing to service or replace this heater.

Anaheim Manufacturing knows they've got a problem with their instructions, and with added confusion caused by their including fittings that you probably don't need. They are working on this. And on training their support staff.

PS: I'll edit this further, in response to any corrections or comments from you-all. After all the time I spent figuring this out, I'd like to contribute a useful answer!

EDITED: To add detail & clarity about the supply-line's fitting, now that I've done the install. Also more regarding the electric loading.
2222 comments|88 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on October 15, 2012
Wow. I've purchase 2 Insinkerator hot water dispensers in the past (installed them myself), and the quality of the Waste King appears to be (from the outside) much, much better than the Insinkerator. The last Insinkerator I had was a stainless steel tank, but the connections that come out of the tank are all plastic, and eventually leaked. It isn't even that they eventually leaked that made me angry, it was that these plastic connection pieces were custom made for the Insinkerator tank, are not universal connectors, and can't be replaced because they are specialized. I think Insinkerator does this on purpose, because when I called them about the fittings, they said they couldn't give me the parts, and that I would need to buy the whole tank. Also, the Insinkerator is practically double the price of the Waste King. The faucet that comes with the Insinkerator is all chrome-looking plastic, where as the faucet that comes with the Waste King IS ALL METAL, and the hoses that come out of the Waste King faucet are BRAIDED metal lines with metal compression fittings. Both ports that come out of the Waste King are metal too, not plastic like the Insinkerator, and one is copper tubing and the other looks like stainless steel.

There is one thing that is not right about the faucet that comes with the Waste King, and that is the compression fitting on the water source tube is a three eighths inch compression fitting, yet the quick connects that Waste King provides with the tank accept only one quarter inch tubing. I was afraid to use the plastic quick connect fittings anyway for fear of leaking (even though Watts makes and sells the same kind of quick connect fittings at H0me Dep0t). The directions that come with the Waste King even say to connect the water source tube (three eighths inch) on the faucet to a one quarter inch tubing. I bought metal fittings and a three eighths inch tube at HD, connected it all, and on the first attempt, there were no water leaks. I hope I'm not disappointed.
22 comments|200 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on February 2, 2013
Replaces an ISE that we had had forever. (~15 years - before they got cheap) The last set of installation hacks with the granite counter tops and stripped custom plastic connectors resulted in plastic tubing and c-clamps - when those gave way it was time to replace.

This installation was VERY easy! The quick connectors were so easy and so quick I was thinking to myself, "Really, is that all there is to it?" But really that is all there is to it, and no leaks. Fits in a standard sink-top / counter-top hole, attached to the 3" granite counter no problem.

The Satin Nickel goes very well with our stainless steel Delta faucet: Delta 19922-SSSD-DST Ashton Single Handle Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet with Soap Dispenser, Stainless

Someone made a comment about the base getting hot at the faucet, if that is happening to you, then you have sourced off the hot water supply and not the cold water supply. Swap your connections and the hot faucet base goes away.

Some things that you will need:
1) 1/4" copper tubing to connect to your cold water supply
2) 1/4" valve that connects your plumbing, typically 3/8" compression fitting. Recommend ball valves, they don't leak.
3) Save yourself a trip to the big box and get some extra 1/4" ferrules for the compression fitting, in case you decide to move it
4) HIGHLY recommended, a faucet wrench. I had one from the Delta faucet listed above and it's a lifesaver. Slide that wrench up the hose to the mounting nut and tighten away. Delta RP60924 Wrench
5) copper tube cutter: Wolverine PST006 Large Diameter Mini Tube Cutter
6) pipe thread tape
7) wrenches 1/2" (for 1/4" compression fittings), 5/8' (for 3/8 compression fittings) crescent for the 1/2" supply side and a set of water pump pliers are handy on the valves to keep them from spinning.
8) one of those foam knee savers, you wedge it at the front edge of the base cabinet and it saves your back :)
9) Towels to sop up leaks, drips out of disconnected pipes, that sort of thing.
10) a small shim, to place under the faucet mounting bracket if one end of the bracket ends up catching your sink lip, use the shim on the other side so that it snugs perpendicular to the underside of your counter.

So even if you have none of this stuff, and have to buy it all new, you will still save a mint over an ISE installation.

People keep talking about the lag between flipping the lever and water out of the faucet - it is hardly noticeable. Really, much to do about nothing. The volume of water coming out is a lot higher than the old system as well. The spout swivels out of the way and the water comes out at a slight angle toward the middle of the sink which is good because that means you don't have to balance your coffee mugs at the curved edge of the sink.

Let me just say this again, because this has never happened to me installing the competitive brand, and I've done several: Zero leaks from the unit connections. None. Not a drip. Super Easy.

Now there is one suggestion that I have for the product. It would be nice if they flared the top plate so that the mounting bracket could be used on the SIDES as well as the back. It would have made my particular installation easier, and given the size of the tank, and the trend to rear drain sinks (verses center drain) being able to mount it on the side of the cabinet means that you are clear of the drainpipes.
11 comment|76 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on February 2, 2013
This is a nice looking faucet and feels very solid. The tank heats up water quietly and rapidly. However, be warned that this product is a bit of a frankenstein. The tank portion and the faucet appear to have been pulled from different suppliers and dumped into a box, with two sets of instructions. That wouldn't be so bad if the people who paired these together actually took the time to install one of these from start to finish. If they had, they would realize the instructions don't match the products, and neither does the hardware. There are three hoses coming from the faucet, two are standard 3/8 braided plumbing hoses. One attaches to the tank with no problem. The second one is male threaded, but when attaching to the cold water inlet you need female threaded (for most standard set-ups). Then there is a 1/4 inch plastic hose, which is supposed to attach to a 3/8 outlet on the top of the tank. This is not a flexible rubber hose, it is stiff plastic and will NOT fit over the wider pipe on the tank. So, be prepared to stare at the instructions for a couple hours while you sort things out and for at least two trips to the hardware. The people who packaged and sold this should start over from scratch.
1111 comments|113 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on November 20, 2012
This item comes with most of what you need, but not everything. The faucet this comes with is excellent. You will need a few tools, like a drill to mount it, tape measure, wood screws, two standard wrenches, a basin wrench, plus whatever you need to hook into your current cold water to a 3/8 pipe inlet connector on this dispenser. I did call support to ask some questions and they were very helpful and knowledgeable. I ended up splitting off my R.O. water system (pH filter required). Although this unit has a stainless tank, the heater coil is made of copper, (to help heat up quickly). Straight installation of the unit not including all the prep or hook into the cold water line if you aren't already set up takes about 30 minutes. If you are like me and have a very small space and a HUGE garbage disposal you have to take out and want to hook into your water filtration system, this will take much more time. Keep in mind that the faucet will need to be mounted properly because you will have some water run-off from the lever during use. When mine does go out, I WILL be buying another one just like it.

If you don't run your tap water through several layers of filtration, you will be required to clean it more often to prevent it from going out. If yours lasted 11 months, then I'd clean it every 6 months. The actual measurements are: Depth 8" Width 7" Height 12"(including inlets).

Update: 06/18/2015 This item is still running like a champ! No issues at all with it and we use it multiple times every day.
44 comments|56 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on October 17, 2012
The Insinkerator unit that came with my new home 3 1/2 years ago started leaking from the side of the tank where the heating unit is mounted due to a gasket failure. The Waste King unit is not only less expensive but far better built with braided water lines and copper and stainless connections. I've had an older Waste King unit in my other house for about 7 years so I had no hesitation buying it again this time. As another reviewer mentioned, the connection of the faucet to the cold water line requires a 3/8" compression fitting and is not compatible with the supplied 1/4" push on connector. A quick trip to Home Depot solved that problem. What you will need is a 3/8" female compression fitting to whatever you are connecting to. Everything went together as expected and there were no connection leaks.
22 comments|40 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
VINE VOICEon December 23, 2013
This is my fourth hot water dispenser over the last 30 years. One Kenmore, 2 Insinkerators, and now this Waste King. The instructions need serious work, but you'll figure it out. It's worth it, the quality of the faucet and hoses are so much better than the overpriced Insinkerators.

If you're not comfortable with plumbing projects, you might want to skip this one.

You will need two mounting screws, plus plastic anchors if you're going into drywall. You'll need a 3/8" to 1/4" straight tubing connector either plastic push on or copper with inserts and ferrules. You'll need a short piece of 3/8: OD hard plastic or copper tubing to connect the 3/8" Waste King cold water supply line to your straight tubing adapter. You won't need either the adapter or the tubing if your supply line is 3/8" but most are 1/4".

You'll need a basin wrench and it is still difficult to tighten the faucet nut; the nut is very close the tubing, very little clearance.

The instructions don't show the fitting that goes on top of the tank on the center pipe that converts it so the supplied tubing from the faucet will fit. It's a compression fitting with a make end that matches the end on the faucet and sort of has the shape of a Russian Orthodox spire. The instructions don't mention it either. If you lose it unpacking, you have a problem that will require a creative solution. At least a couple of reviewers clearly did not understand that as indicated by their frustration trying to get the 1/4" hose over the 3/8" center pipe. There are no instructions for how the ferrules work; they're standard but if you don't know, you'll have to figure out which way the taper goes.

I'm done, I'm happy, if it's still working in 5 years I'll be even happier.
review image review image
0Comment|18 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on April 9, 2013
This is actually my second one of these. I had one in the old house for a few years, then bought the exact same one off Amazon as soon as we moved into the new house. It's a great convenience, and we use it every day. I've never had a problem with this one or the old one that was a few years old.

I really wanted to give it 5-stars, but my experience with the installation annoyed me so much I had to knock a star off. Other than the install - it's a 5-star product.

Here's my beef with the install: (Keep in mind I installed the same one a few years ago, so I'm getting frustrated despite the fact that I've had practice!)

1. The inlet line from the cold water supply is a 3/8" compression fitting, meant to hook up to a 3/8" copper pipe.

2. In the package, they give you a 1/4" quick-connector with a nice little screen filter, and tell you install it on the supply line, and they tell you to go buy some 1/4" copper and some sort of fitting to hook it up to your existing sink's water supply.

3. A 1/4" pipe does not fit into the 3/8" connector that goes into the valve on the faucet!!! The instructions make no mention of this, so there's one wasted trip to home depot buying the wrong parts...

4. The line FROM the faucet valve that goes to the tank actually is 1/4" and fits the quick-connects they give you, so at least you can use one of them - BUT, after you figure out the first part, this means you have to buy 2 different sizes of piping to make all the connections! I tried to connect the 1/4" compression fitting off the faucet directly to the copper filler tube on the tank but couldn't get it tight - I don't recommend this because you have to get 2 wrenches in the tight spot under the sink and try to tighten it down without twisting the braided line all up. I ended up using a 3" piece of 1/4" tubing and a quick-connector.

I'm hoping by writing this I can save people some frustration and maybe cut it down to one home-depot trip. Here is the list of stuff I used:

1. Watt's 3/8" adapt-a-valve (LFPBAV-666) (my existing sink line is 3/8, I think that is pretty standard). This thing is great because you don't have to mess with anything upstream of the existing shutoff valve in your house. I'm not a fan of saddle valves, and it's nice to be able to shut it all off under the sink if there is a problem without shutting the whole house off.
http://www.amazon.com/Watts-LFPBAV-666-Adapt---Valve-Compression/dp/B004VT4ZI4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1365525450&sr=8-2&keywords=watts+adapt-a-valve

2. A braided stainless faucet/dishwasher connector with the same 3/8" OD female connections on both sides. I used a 20" long one from Home Depot, model #7223-20-38-6. Connect one end to the supply line Adapt-A-Valve 3/8" male threads, and the other end to the cold water input that goes to the water heater's faucet (3/8" male threads on the braided stainless line attached to the faucet).

3. Watts 1/4" brass insert and delrin sleeve (2pcs per pack). This is a little brass tube that goes inside the 1/4" poly tube and lets you use the compression fittings that are meant for copper. Use the delrin sleeves that come with this instead of the brass sleeves that come with the other fittings, because the brass can cut the tubing or the tubing can slide right out of the Brass. This is for the 1/4" poly tube that connects the filler line coming out of the Faucet (use compression here) to the tank (use the supplied quick-connector).

4. Watts 1/4" poly tubing to connect the filler hose from the valve to the tank. Three bucks at home-depot, I don't see it on amazon. I used about 4" of this was all.
33 comments|18 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on March 31, 2015
UPDATE April 2015
After several instances of people getting splashed with hot water I decided to install the aerator the manufacturer ought to have installed. For that I bought an aerator repair kit METAL MESH. I unscrewed the tip of the faucet, removed its white plastic tubular insert (it has a black O-ring facing the faucet's tube), and then I cut the mesh using the white plastic insert as a round cutting guide. I placed the mesh in the end of the faucet's tip, replaced the plastic insert in the tip, and screwed the tip on the faucet's tube. There is little or no splashing now.

ORIGINAL REVIEW
This unit, manufactured in December 2014, was bought on March 2015 to replace the second InSinkErator dispenser to become corroded in less than 2 years of use. It arrived well packaged and had all the manufacturer's components; both the Coronado faucet and the tank are nice looking, and the flexible hoses are clearly tagged. Given that under the sink we already had attached to the cold water pipe a T-connector with safety valve for 1/4" tubing (as well as a GFCI receptacle for an electric line capable of supporting the operation of both the dishwasher and this 11W dispenser), my first impression was that it would be a very quick job. I was mistaken.

One long look at the enclosed manual (Revision J [English] -- the PDF file from the Amazon webpage link to the user manual is Revision G) was enough to bring a feeling of impending doom. It was not that it had been written in Taiwan's Cantonese and then poorly translated to English with a web engine; actually, the printed text is often well written, with plenty of figures and highlighted text boxes. The problem was that the instructions did not seem to match the hardware.

After some deliberation and checking reviews, particularly the images uploaded by reviewers, it was clear the manufacturer did not include all the necessary pieces for an easy installation, and that a trip to a local hardware store was needed. The INPUT to the tank first has a 3/8" braided hose but the water must first go through a 1/4" quick-connect fitting with a coarse filter, so one needs pieces of both 3/8" and 1/4" pipe. The hose connects to the tilt valve of the faucet; from there the water goes through the second braided hose, which has a 1/4" compression fitting, and then the second quick-connect fitting (without a filter inside) to reach the tank.

Given what was available at the store I came up with the following system for the input, shown in Fig. A : [1] a short 1/4" copper pipe (attached on one end to the T-connector's valve) connects to [2] the 1/4" quick-connect fitting filter; this connects to [3] another short piece of 1/4" pipe that attaches to [4] a 1/4"-to-3/8" compression adapter that connects to [5] a short piece of 3/8" pipe whose other end connects to [6] the braided, 3/8" hose via a compression fitting; the hose connects to the the faucet's valve. (Note: a 1/4 to 3/8 inch adapter was not available in the store; it was built by combining pieces from different adapter parts.) Figure B shows that : [1] the other braided hose, which comes from the faucet's valve, attaches to [2] a short piece of 1/4" copper pipe via a compression fitting; the pipe connects to [3] the second quick-connect fitting, which connects to [4] the 1/4" tank inlet pipe extruding from one of the corners on top of the tank.

The OUTPUT of the tank, also shown in Fig. B, needs no additional parts : the [5] 3/8" metal tube extruding from the center of the tank's top is attached to a metal hose connector whose nipple receives one end of [6] the neoprene tube; its other end attaches to the nipple at the end of a threaded tube of the faucet (which serves to mount the faucet on sink). Soaking the neoprene tube in warm water facilitates its mounting on the metal nipples.

The tools I used, shown in Fig. C, were : [1] an adjustable wrench; [2] a (bent) bike cone wrench; [3] a pipe cutter for [4] 1/4" and 3/8" copper pipe; and [5] a knock-out punch. The cone wrench, which fitted the provided mounting nut, was used to mount the faucet on the sink, instead of a more expensive faucet wrench; it was bent to fit in the tight space at the mounting point. The punch was used to enlarge an existing 1" mounting hole to a three-leaf shamrock format matching the tubing arrangement at the bottom of the faucet. Only small pieces of additional tubing are needed, so I bought the shortest pieces on sale of 3/8" and 1/4" copper pipe. I have taken one star because obtaining and then putting together the additional parts for the water input took a considerable amount of time. Once all tank connections were made the faucet mounted, there were no leaks whatsoever.

The tank MUST be filled with water before power is applied to the unit; else, the self-resetting thermal fuse of the heater will interrupt the circuit for about 30 minutes. The thermostat control dial on the tank makes it very easy to adjust water temperature. A negative aspect of the unit is that the position of the faucet's spout can be changed too easily, even by lightly bumping into it. This is a problem since the hand could be burned if the spout were directed at the handle lever. Also, unless water pressure is reduced, the water is dispensed with force (sometimes in three divergent jets, instead of a single jet) and one may get splashed with hot drops. I have taken another star because of this potential risk.

The manufacturer should carefully revise the installation instructions (which are not only confusing but often also too busy), add an aerator to reduce the force of the water jet and avoid divergent multiple jets, and include a few short pieces of 1/4"and 3/8" tubing and an adapter to facilitate installation.
review image review image review image
0Comment|12 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse
on January 17, 2013
You better be handy and live close to a plumbing suppy house. Instructions don't indicate whether or not they are for braided line or copper line. Quick connect fittings are supplied but aren't used on braided line. Why not specify that in the instructions? Also, braided supply line is a 3/8" male fitting; it should be a female fitting in order to attach to a 3/8" supply. Saddle valve (if used) should be specified as 3/8". If you already have a 1/4" saddle valve or purchase one by mistake, you'll have to replace it with a 3/8" valve. Bottom line is that they shouldn't even include the instruction manual. It only confuses the installation and you'll have to figure it all out on your own anyway.

This is my first review of any product on Amazon. I hope it helps somebody.
0Comment|16 people found this helpful. Was this review helpful to you?YesNoReport abuse

Questions? Get fast answers from reviewers

Please make sure that you've entered a valid question. You can edit your question or post anyway.
Please enter a question.
See all 136 answered questions


Send us feedback

How can we make Amazon Customer Reviews better for you?
Let us know here.