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Installation: Here's EXACTLY what you need, and what to expect.
on June 10, 2014
There's a lot of confusion about what's in the box, and about what adaptors you might require. The terrible instructions add to this. So, I had a few interactions with the manufacturer, Anaheim, including with their Director of Operations, who settled these issues definitively. (You WILL have parts left over.)
You've got three hoses to worry about, only the first one is interesting:
1) The cold-water supply line to the faucet (the braided/blue hose) has a 3/8" male compression fitting. Let's look under YOUR sink:
IF YOU HAVE A 3/8" SUPPLY LINE installed (e.g. from a saddle valve or a T) you'll use no adapters or fittings: If the copper tubing has 3/8-inch outside diameter, it goes right onto the hose, using the nut & brass ferrule provided.
IF YOU HAVE A 1/4" SUPPLY LINE (MORE LIKELY!)then you need an adapter (not included). Anaheim Manufacturing (Waste King) recommends the Watts LFA-157, available here on Amazon.
IF YOU HAVE NO INSTANT-HOT SUPPLY LINE YET, I suggest you install a tee with a 3/8" compression fitting. The LASCO 06-9111 looks right, to me, if your kitchen faucet's supply line has a 3/8" female compression fitting (most do, these days). This tee goes between the faucet and its supply. Optionally add a stop valve, unless you want both your faucet and this hot-dispenser to share a shut-off. (This would be more robust than a saddle valve. I don't trust any such self-piercing things.) But read on...
NOTE: The water tank's supply hose has a MALE compression fitting, so it will accept that 3/8" O.D. copper tubing, but it's the opposite of the female fitting that's probably on your faucet hoses. So if you have a shutoff valve or a tee (like the Lasco 06-911) with a 3/8" (male) compression thread, you'll need a short braided supply hose with 3/8" female compression fittings on each end to resolve those two males. That's the USUAL faucet supply line, so it's easy to find. For example the LASCO 10-2512 here on Amazon.
2) The braided/red hose, from the faucet to the tank's corner, has a 1/4" compression fitting. This can go DIRECTLY onto the 1/4" stud on the tank, using the nut and ferrule provided. You ignore that white quick-connect fitting, here.
3) The neoprene hose, from the faucet to the tank's center, attaches directly to the tank, with a clamp. Again, no added hardware is needed; just the two clamps provided.
Of course you'll need an electrical receptacle. It should be a GFCI, for current code, sure, but also for safety. Bear in mind that this tank draws 11 amps when it's heating. If it's on a 15-amp circuit, it shouldn't share that circuit with anything: your dishwasher or your disposal will overload your wiring. If you share a 20-amp circuit with both your dishwasher and your disposal, you are very likely to trip your circuit breaker if you use your disposal while the dishwasher is running, and if you're unlucky enough to have this hot-water tank kick in at the same time.
If you can install a dedicated outlet, that would be best. But you should not hardwire this unit (despite some comments elsewhere); cutting off the plug to do so would violate warranty and electrical code, and would be discourteous to anyone wishing to service or replace this heater.
Anaheim Manufacturing knows they've got a problem with their instructions, and with added confusion caused by their including fittings that you probably don't need. They are working on this. And on training their support staff.
PS: I'll edit this further, in response to any corrections or comments from you-all. After all the time I spent figuring this out, I'd like to contribute a useful answer!
EDITED: To add detail & clarity about the supply-line's fitting, now that I've done the install. Also more regarding the electric loading.