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Learn Two Ways to Bouillabaisse

A guide by Katie Rider (Los Angeles)

Products sampled from this guide:
I experienced my first real Atlantic gale in 1982. Again we were delivering the sixty foot Jongert Ketch "La Paloma" for the Spanish owner. This time he wanted it moved from Palma de Mallorca to St. Martin in the Caribbean. Like last time, I got a quick phone call from Dad and also like last time, my husband Dub knew all about it in advance. And like the last time, I was getting restless. I couldn’t get on that plane to Spain fast enough. I loved my man, my kids, my house, my life—but I loved the sea, too, and if she only took me away from my family a couple months or so every other year, than so be it. Although once that storm hit, I kind of wished that I was back home in Santa Barbara, snuggled up by a nice cozy warm fire.

“Save the pot!” I remember my father shouting, as it looked like it was going to fly off the gimbaled stove.

I got there in time, steadied it. “God forbid we should lose the bouillabaisse.”

“It’s only two days old,” Dad said.

“Yuck,” I said.

“Just getting good,” Mama said and that was rare, because from past experience I knew that she thought Dad’s California version of Bouillabaisse was rather bland.

Unlike with their Chili on the eastern crossings, where they kept throwing stuff in the pot, on their western crossings they would cook up a pot of Bouillabaisse, eat the fish out of it and restock the broth with what they caught along the way.

I’m sure that if Dad could have had his wish, they would have done chili both coming and going, but wishes are like kisses, you don’t always get as many as you want, especially my dad, he only got his wish, food wise, half the time. If Mama and Dad were sailing west, he ate bouillabaisse, but Dad wasn’t the kind of man to give in totally, if he had to have fish soup, then he’d have it his way, which Mama let him get away with, every now and then.

I said last Guide that my dad was a two recipe man, well this is his other one.


Captain Katie’s Dad’s Bouillabaisse
1 pound tuna
1 pound sword fish
1 pound shrimp, cleaned and shelled
1 sliced onion
1 sliced carrot
1 stalk chopped celery
1 bay leaf
salt and pepper to taste
6 teaspoons olive oil
2 cloves finely chopped garlic
2 small leeks, trimmed and finely chopped
4 tomatoes, skinned and chopped
3 strips orange peel
good pinch saffron threads
1 sprig fresh thyme

Clean and prepare fish, removing the skin and bones. Shell the shrimp. Put fish trimmings and bones in a large saucepan with the onion, carrot, celery and bay leaf. Pour in 6 cups water and bring to a boil. Add salt and pepper, remove any scum which rises to the surface, cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain, discarding bones and vegetables.

Heat oil in pan, add garlic and leeks and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Add tomatoes and cook for 5 minutes, then pour in stock and bring to a boil. Stir in orange peel, saffron and thyme. When soup is boiling, reduce heat and add white fish and simmer for 8 minutes. Add shrimp and cook for 5 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Serves 6

Comments: Okay, so it’s not really bouillabaisse, more like fish soup, but bouillabaisse is what my dad calls it.

Unlike Dad’s recipe, Mama’s is the real thing and not to be undertaken lightly. Doing her Bouillabaisse is a major production, but worth it.


Captain Katie’s Mama’s Bouillabaisse
1 pound red snapper
1 pound cod tail
1 pound bass (striped or sea bass)
2 lobster tails
3/4 pound deveined shrimp
1 1/2 pounds mussels, cleaned but still in shells
1 pound eel
1 1/2 pounds white-meated fish fillets
1/2 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons chopped onion
3 tablespoons tomato paste
2 cloves crushed garlic
1 bay leaf
1 pinch thyme
1 pinch dried fennel seed
1 pinch saffron
1 piece dried orange rind
1 teaspoon fresh ground pepper
15 slices French bread, dried in oven
2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Cut fish and lobster into pieces 1 1/2-inch thick. Reserve fish fillets. In kettle or large, heavy saucepan, combine oil, onions, tomato paste, garlic, bay leaf, thyme, fennel, saffron, orange rind, shellfish, and fish (without fillets), salt, pepper, and 6 cups of boiling water. Bring to boil and continue boiling, over brisk flame, for 10 minutes. Add fish fillets and continue boiling for 5 minutes longer. Remove all fish and shellfish to heated serving dish and keep warm. Serves way more than six.

Arrange slices of bread in bottom of soup tureen. Pour cooking liquid over bread. Sprinkle both dishes with parsley. Serve hot. Serve both dishes together. For eating: Serve from both dishes into the same soup plate.

If some of the fish listed is not available, replace it by some similar variety.

Comments: Bouillabaisse is made in France with Mediterranean fish, which is, of course, not to be found in the United States. The recipe lists what Mama thinks is the equivalent American fish. Even in France there is no set list of fish—variety of flavors and textures is more important than any definite kind.

Contrary to "La Marseillaise" (which did not originate in Marseille but in Strasbourg), "la bouillabaisse" is a native of Marseille and the favorite child of the whole Cote d'Azur. It was, and has remained, a fisherman's meal. It is delectable enough to have won the recognition of gourmets everywhere. Try it sometime at the seaside or in your cockpit and you will get the full flavor of this marvelous dish.

Next Guide it’s all about seafood when I talk about “Two Ways to Sizzle with Shrimp.” Till then, Happy sails to you and healthy eating too.


You can find some more excellent bouillabaisse in the cookbooks featured below.
The Zuni Cafe Cookbook: A Compendium of Recipes and Cooking Lessons from San Francisco's Beloved Resturant, This one has a superb Chicken Bouillabaisse in it.
Made in Marseille: Food and Flavors from France's Mediterranean Seaport, This is one of my favorite cookbooks.
My New Mediterranean Cookbook: Eat Better, Live Longer by Following the Mediterranean Diet, Just excellent, this cookbooks it. Try it, you'll see!
The Daily Soup Cookbook, Another cookbook I can't live without.
The New England Cookbook: 350 Recipies from Town and Country, Land and Sea, Hearth and Home, Try the Down East Bouillabaisse in this one.
Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook: Strategies, Recipes, and Techniques of Classic Bistro Cooking
The Balthazar Cookbook
The Gourmet Cookbook: More than 1000 recipes
Real Stew: 300 Recipes for Authentic Home-Cooked Cassoulet, Gumbo, Chili, Curry, Minestrone, Bouillabaise, Stroganoff, Goulash, Chowder, and Much More (Non)
Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook: Home Collection


And lastly here are some excellent French cookbooks full of delicious recipes.
Barefoot in Paris: Easy French Food You Can Make at Home
The French Market: More Recipes from a French Kitchen
The Bistros, Brasseries, and Wine Bars of Paris: Everyday Recipes from the Real Paris
Saveur Cooks Authentic French: Rediscovering the Recipes, Traditions, and Flavors of the World's Greatest Cuisine
The Great Book of French Cuisine: Revised Edition
French Farmhouse Cookbook
My French Kitchen: A Book of 120 Treasured Recipes
Larousse Gastronomique Recipe Collection
On Rue Tatin: Living and Cooking in a French Town
Cooking at Home on Rue Tatin
Wolfgang Puck's Modern French Cooking for the American Kitchen: Recipes form the James Beard Award-Winning Chef-Owner of Spago
Joie de Vivre
The Paris Cookbook
PATRICIA WELLS AT HOME IN PROVENCE: Recipes Inspired By Her Farmhouse In France
Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook
Cooking in Provence
Paris Sweets: Great Desserts From the City's Best Pastry Shops
The Cooking of Southwest France: Recipes from France's Magnificient Rustic Cuisine
Bistro Cooking
French Food at Home
French Leave: A Wonderful Year of Escape and Discovery
French Provincial Cooking (Penguin Classics)
The Cook and the Gardener : A Year of Recipes and Writings for the French Countryside
Boulestin's Round-the-Year Cookbook (Dover Cookbook Series)
Rick Stein's French Odyssey: Over 100 New Recipes Inspired by the Flavours of France
The French Chef Cookbook
France: The Beautiful Cookbook- Authentic Recipes from the Regions of France
Provence: The Beautiful Cookbook: Authentic Recipes from the Regions of Provence
A Chef in Provence
French Food and Cooking
Fast Food My Way
Ducasse: Flavors of France
Guy Savoy: Simple French Recipes for the Home Cook
Bistro: French Country Recipes for Home Cooks
French Food at Home
Bouchon
Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table
Le Cordon Bleu's Complete Cooking Techniques
Simple French Cookery


And really very lastly, here is a lovely book that I just adore,
Van Gogh's Table: At the Auberge Ravoux

Products mentioned include:
You can find some more excellent bouillabaisse in the cookbooks featured below.
1.  The Zuni Cafe Cookbook: A Compendium of Recipes and Cooking Lessons from San Francisco's Beloved Resturant  by Judy Rodgers
$26.66 Used & New from: $12.08
4.6 out of 5 stars   (80)
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2.  Made in Marseille: Food and Flavors from France's Mediterranean Seaport  by Daniel Young
Used & New from: $0.48
4.4 out of 5 stars   (9)
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3.  My New Mediterranean Cookbook: Eat Better, Live Longer by Following the Mediterranean Diet  by Jeannette Seaver
Used & New from: $0.01
3.5 out of 5 stars   (12)
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4.  The Daily Soup Cookbook  by Robin Miller
$20.79 Used & New from: $0.01
4.6 out of 5 stars   (60)
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5.  The New England Cookbook: 350 Recipies from Town and Country, Land and Sea, Hearth and Home  by Brooke Dojny
Used & New from: $3.58
4.8 out of 5 stars   (24)
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6.  Anthony Bourdain's Les Halles Cookbook: Strategies, Recipes, and Techniques of Classic Bistro Cooking  by Anthony Bourdain
$28.80 Used & New from: $13.13
4.7 out of 5 stars   (138)
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7.  The Balthazar Cookbook  by Keith McNally
$27.49 Used & New from: $2.79
4.6 out of 5 stars   (31)
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8.  The Gourmet Cookbook: More than 1000 recipes  by Ruth Reichl
Used & New from: $0.01
3.9 out of 5 stars   (180) | 2 customer discussions
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9.  Real Stew: 300 Recipes for Authentic Home-Cooked Cassoulet, Gumbo, Chili, Curry, Minestrone, Bouillabaise, Stroganoff, Goulash, Chowder, and Much More (Non)  by Clifford A. Wright
Used & New from: $0.01
4.2 out of 5 stars   (18)
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10.  Le Cordon Bleu Complete Cook: Home Collection  by Editors of Thunder Bay Press
Used & New from: $6.36
4.5 out of 5 stars   (24)
  See buying options  Add to wishlist
And lastly here are some excellent French cookbooks full of delicious recipes.
11.  Barefoot in Paris: Easy French Food You Can Make at Home  by Ina Garten
$25.83 Used & New from: $3.97
4.7 out of 5 stars   (228)
Add to cart  Add to wishlist
12.  The French Market: More Recipes from a French Kitchen  by Joanne Harris
$21.44 Used & New from: $0.75
4.5 out of 5 stars   (13)
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13.  The Bistros, Brasseries, and Wine Bars of Paris: Everyday Recipes from the Real Paris  by Daniel Young
$22.09 Used & New from: $0.01
3.9 out of 5 stars   (7)
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14.  Saveur Cooks Authentic French: Rediscovering the Recipes, Traditions, and Flavors of the World's Greatest Cuisine  by Colman Andrews
Used & New from: $1.00
4.4 out of 5 stars   (24)
  See buying options  Add to wishlist
15.  The Great Book of French Cuisine: Revised Edition  by Henri Paul Pellaprat
Used & New from: $3.95
4.1 out of 5 stars   (8)
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16.  French Farmhouse Cookbook  by Susan Herrmann Loomis
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17.  My French Kitchen: A Book of 120 Treasured Recipes  by Joanne Harris
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4.6 out of 5 stars   (36)
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18.  Larousse Gastronomique Recipe Collection  by Librairie Larousse
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4.1 out of 5 stars   (13)
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19.  On Rue Tatin: Living and Cooking in a French Town  by Susan Herrmann Loomis
$12.27 Used & New from: $0.01
3.9 out of 5 stars   (82)
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20.  Cooking at Home on Rue Tatin  by Susan Herrmann Loomis
Used & New from: $0.41
4.8 out of 5 stars   (8)
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21.  Wolfgang Puck's Modern French Cooking for the American Kitchen: Recipes form the James Beard Award-Winning Chef-Owner of Spago  by Wolfgang Puck
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22.  Joie de Vivre  by Robert Arbor
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23.  The Paris Cookbook  by Patricia Wells
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24.  PATRICIA WELLS AT HOME IN PROVENCE: Recipes Inspired By Her Farmhouse In France  by Patricia Wells
$19.49 Used & New from: $2.17
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25.  Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook  by Alice Waters
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26.  Cooking in Provence  by Alex Mackay
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27.  Paris Sweets: Great Desserts From the City's Best Pastry Shops  by Dorie Greenspan
$23.53 Used & New from: $3.47
4.6 out of 5 stars   (53) | 1 customer discussion
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28.  The Cooking of Southwest France: Recipes from France's Magnificient Rustic Cuisine  by Paula Wolfert
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29.  Bistro Cooking  by Patricia Wells
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30.  French Food at Home  by Philip Arthur Kalisch
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31.  French Leave: A Wonderful Year of Escape and Discovery  by John Burton Race
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32.  French Provincial Cooking (Penguin Classics)  by Elizabeth David
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33.  The Cook and the Gardener : A Year of Recipes and Writings for the French Countryside  by Amanda Hesser
$28.00 Used & New from: $1.19
4.5 out of 5 stars   (32)
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34.  Boulestin's Round-the-Year Cookbook (Dover Cookbook Series)  by X. Marcel Boulestin
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35.  Rick Stein's French Odyssey: Over 100 New Recipes Inspired by the Flavours of France  by Rick Stein
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36.  The French Chef Cookbook  by Julia Child
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37.  France: The Beautiful Cookbook- Authentic Recipes from the Regions of France  by E. Scotto
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38.  Provence: The Beautiful Cookbook: Authentic Recipes from the Regions of Provence  by Richard Olney
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39.  A Chef in Provence  by Édouard Loubet
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40.  French Food and Cooking  by Elizabeth Wolf-Cohen
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41.  Fast Food My Way  by Ben Fink
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42.  Ducasse: Flavors of France [Deluxe Edition]  by Linda Dannenberg
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43.  Guy Savoy: Simple French Recipes for the Home Cook  by Patricia Wells
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44.  Bistro: French Country Recipes for Home Cooks  by Laura Washburn
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45.  French Food at Home  by Philip Arthur Kalisch
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4.3 out of 5 stars   (103)
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46.  Bouchon  by Thomas Keller
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47.  Sunday Suppers at Lucques: Seasonal Recipes from Market to Table  by Teri Gelber
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48.  Le Cordon Bleu's Complete Cooking Techniques  by Jeni Wright
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4.7 out of 5 stars   (59)
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49.  Simple French Cookery [International Edition]  by Raymond Blanc
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And really very lastly, here is a lovely book that I just adore,
50.  Van Gogh's Table: At the Auberge Ravoux  by Alexandra Leaf
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Author

Katie Rider (Los Angeles)
Qualifications: Sailing Chef
Last updated: 5/24/10
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