Oaxaca Journal (National Geographic Directions) (Paperback)

On one level, we are treated to a kaeidoscope of hundreds of exotic ferns and their latin names he and his frends find in the lush vegetation of Mesoamerica. Not being a fern lover myself, I marvel at the intrigue of the hunt for these living fossils, objects from the distant world of time and creation before the advent of humanity. One would expect that such trivia would bore the reader, but no, Sacks absorbs us in his fascination with the varieties of these creature; he takes us along in the narrative by his marvel with discovery.

At another level, Sacks enters the world of Oaxaca. He treats us to the rich culture of the region. He regails us with tales of the potato, the tomato, the bean, maise and pepper. He describes the ageless Oaxacan cuisine that nourishes his fellow pilgrims and the people of the region. The rubber ball of the Zatopec culture and the games played with it especially intrigues him. And his delightful descriptions of the delicious Oaxacan chocolate in all its forms stimulates mouthwatering longing for a taste. More importantly, he tells us of the people who lived in the region and bore the brunt of the Spanish Conquistadores. One is treated to the rich history of the Mesoamerican civilizations that rivaled Rome and Athens. Yet, Oaxaca's civiliztion achieved greatness while being innocent of the wheel, iron, compass, and alphabet. Sacks tells us of his confusion as a Westerner entering this world where his reference points create discontinuity.

Sacks marvels at the breadth and scope of his companions' erudition. He tells us of their vigor and clarity of mind, some of whom are into their seventh decade. Most of all, he tells us of the comfort of being among fellow scientists and friends who enjoy each others company that is devoid of the competitiveness and the rush of living in the in the rapid paced world at home.

He ends his tale by describing the idyllic surroundings of their last meal together beneath bald cypresses on the banks of a river. They were treated to estafado de pollo, a chicken stew in almond sauce and mole amarillo, with pork spiced with yerba santa and pitiona, all washed down with copious amounts of refreshing hot cinnamon-flavored Oaxacan chocolate!

It is also a quite wonderful description of this special section of southern Mexico. As well as describing the tremendous variety of plant life found in this Mexican state he also is stunned by the variety of food. One restaurant has well over 100 dishes none the same and few immediately recognizable to his North American eye. Sachs tosses in a good deal of history--of the ancient Aztecs, Toltecs, Zapotecs and Mayans as well as Cortez and the conquering Spaniards. He also passes on a few pointed comments about the church and the modern disaster that is Mexican government. He is intrigued by Oaxaca and thinks about the necessity of returning. But this book isn't really about Oaxaca or Mexico herself.

The thirty plus botantists on this tour are an soortment of gays, lesbians, heterosexuals--all in couples save Sachs. He remarks that he has always been a loner--never really part of a couple. One night after drinking a lot of mescal they all ascend a mountaintop to observe a lunar ecliipse. Sachs enjoys the joking and camaraderie immensely, but as the eclipse approaches totality he goes off by himself to best appreciate the event. Almost through the trip he finds himself feeling oddly. After much reflection he decides that he must be feeling joy--because of the adventure, the scientific richness of all he sees, the new experience of Mexico; and, to some degree, because he feels part of a group. And that, I think, is the heart of this book. A brilliant but lonesome man finds sustenance and joy in the company of his peers. An odd, but absolutely charming, little book.

Because of the Author's boundless curiosity about pretty much everything, the trip becomes more than just a fern collecting odyssey. To the searching eye of Sacks, a simple midmorning sitting alone at a cafe table in a town square, becomes a rumination on human tolerance for sun and shadow. A visit to the Ancient Meso-American city of Monte Alban becomes an excuse to probe into the curious history of rubber- which the Zapotec people used to make their heavy sport balls for their own unique form of basketball. Casually encountered botanical names are savored for their historical baggage and contribution to language and culture. And each new plant Sacks and his travelling companions encounter sparks a conversation which could end up touching on just about any realm of human experience.

Sacks' travelling companions are a particular delight; intelligent, well read, boundlessly enthusiastic, they are the sort of people one dreams of having along on trips to casually recount tidbits of history, science, and cuture to enrich the experience. Anyone belonging to a club with a scientific or academic bent, will recognize the combination of passion and quirkiness in the author's new friends.

Fans of the casual, digression laden, style James Burke's "Connections" books or of the popular recent books on single subjects, such as Mark Pendergrast's "Uncommon Grounds" and Mark Kurlansky's "Salt", will probably enjoy Oaxaca Journal. These books are typically pretexts for digressions into juicy and fascinating anecdotes from the nooks and crannies of human history and knowledge.

In a way, the author's vivid account of his trip reads like a book length "National Geographic" article. There's no real agenda or underlying theme. The confluence of experiences that the trip allows to happen is point. In this sense, like the best travel writers, Sacks teaches his reader a way of traveling- that is, a way of searching and savoring our fascinating world.

Oaxaca Journal is a pithy 162 pages- with a generous amount of white space included. I would have liked to have seen more text- but I suppose that that would not fit in with the brief nature of the trip in which there was enough experience to tanatalize, but not delve deeply. The entire work could be savored during a long airport layover on the way to an exotic travel destination- which I think would provide the perfect lesson for how to proceed once arrived.