66 of 76 people found the following review helpful
This review is from: Fiskars 7854 X25 28-Inch Splitting Axe (Lawn & Patio)
After buying the Fiskars standard 2.5 lb splitter and 2.25 lb. chopping axes I decided to buy the heavier 4.5 lb maul (Power Axe 7854) for the harder oak wood and I was not disappointed. I also got the Fiskars sharpening tool (10 dollars) and it works great with all of the Fiskars axes.
One possible problem for some people: The handle could have been about 3 to 4 inches longer on the Power Axe but if one uses good form it works great as a medium weight maul.
As with swinging ANY sharp tool good form and some common sense are a must to avoid injury.
These axes are sharp from the factory but they will not shave hair until you use the sharpener. A few passes with the sharpener and these axes will shave your arm or anything else you want to.
The design of the blade and the teflon coating on it prevents the axe from sticking to the wood. If it fails to split in the first swing just pull it out and take another swing. The light handle keeps the weight up front where it belongs. Also don't forget to lightly oil the blades when done or they will rust in a humid environment. After slicing my finger oiling the camp axe I spray WD-40 on them now.
My old cheap wood handled axe was not very sharp and it kept sticking to the wood so bad that I sometimes needed to hammer it out. Once the handle started to come loose I just gave the thing away
I bought the 14 inch camp axe (20 dollars at Home Depot) but it's too light for all but the smallest chores. Probably will be called on to help butcher deer and wild hogs.
PRO: Great handling, good looking, really sharp tough blades, your gonna love it.
CON: Short handle: watch your form or you will be taking off some toes or worse.
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Showing 1-2 of 2 posts in this discussion
Initial post: Aug 9, 2009 3:43:05 PM PDT
Even a cheap axe can perform better if it is sharp.
I often see reviews of edged tools with the comment "I have never sharpened it and it has stayed sharp all these years"...
Believe it or not, the factory edge is not intended to be the last sharpening ever done on the tool, but is a courtesy to the buyer. The buyer has always been responsible for sharpening his own tools, and in fact some better edged tools only come rough ground so that the owner can sharpen to their own specifications. Some manufacturers provide better factory edges than others, but all expect that you will get a file and sharpening stone and sharpen your own tools. Especially axes, which get used hard, should expect be sharpened regularly, even daily if heavily used. If you don't know how to sharpen, try googling "axe sharpening". There's a pretty good guide by the US gummint at:
Axes should be razor sharp so that they cut what they're pointed at and cut it cleanly. A dull axe is not a safe axe. The same goes for any edged tool -- knives, saws, planes, chisels, whatever. Only splitting mauls (which are not intended to cut, but to split) are meant to be relatively dull.
(That being said, manufacturers recognize that people today don't know as much about hand tools as they did 50 years ago and are providing better factory edges lately, mainly to forestall angry calls from new buyers, but the above still applies. If you need an axe, you also need to know how to care for it. Your emergency room physician will thank you.)
In reply to an earlier post on Feb 2, 2010 9:29:06 PM PST
Roma T. Colella says:
Good info Rarkm and thanks for the axe sharpening link.
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