230 of 253 people found the following review helpful
Excellent "Basic" Television,
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This review is from: Samsung UN46EH6000 46-Inch 1080p 120Hz LED HDTV (Black) (2012 Model) (Electronics)
It is telling when you have to describe televisions as "basic" or "smart" - just like cellular devices.
The EH6000 is a "basic" television that, simply, fits a need. It is a television that doesn't pretend to be anything else. I don't really need it to be anything else, either. It certainly is my television, but I mostly use it as a monitor for my PC and consoles. It does a wonderful job for what I need it for, and that's the key. My consoles and PC do everything I'd want a "smart" television for anyway. I also have no need or desire for 3D. At this point in time, there are few panels that give the true theater experience, and they are all well outside of my price range.
The picture is nice and sharp. Out of the box, it was set to "dynamic" color mode which I found so bright it washed out the picture. I set it to "standard" color mode, and it fits my environment just fine. If I upgrade from my yellow light bulbs to white, I may change my color settings. I haven't tried the "game" color mode yet; though, "standard" seems to work fine for the range of games I've tried on Steam, Origin, and my consoles.
It took some trial and error to find the right fit for my PC's graphics settings, but I expected as much. However, I was pleased once everything was set up and running. I was immediately impressed with the LED back-lighting. It is, by far, superior to standard LCD panels. I never realized just how dim my previous television, also a Samsung, was until I turned down the brightness settings in ALL my games. The environments really pop, and they don't feel over-saturated with "forced" brightness.
I didn't see it in the description at the time, but I was pleasantly pleased to see the audio outputs on the back. Yes, I used plural. It has optical, which I was expecting, and analog three-conductor phone (aka: headphone, stereo eighth-inch). I wish it was analog stereo phono (aka: RCA) instead, but I can live with it.
With all this praise, one might think there were no drawbacks to reduce the overall star rating. Sadly, Samsung left one, glaring omission. It's not enough to return the television and shell out extra cash for a higher-end Samsung, but it is something to complain about. It only has 2 HDMI ports. Yes, it is in the description. I realized what I was buying when I purchased the television, but I really wish Samsung had included more HDMI ports. All of their 3D televisions that I looked at had 4 HDMI ports. Why? Why? Why?! Most consumers have more than two HDMI devices, and switches can cause a degradation in signal quality.
Oh also, the product description states the EH6000 has one component and one composite input. The statement is a bit misleading. There is one component/composite input. That's right. You can use it as EITHER component or composite. It doesn't bother me, but other buyers may wish to be made aware.
As a note, I have no way of testing the tuner. I live outside of off-the-air broadcast range, so there is no way, at this time, to properly test this function. In the past however, Samsung has built in excellent over-the-air tuners.
Tracked by 5 customers
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Showing 1-10 of 27 posts in this discussion
Initial post: Mar 20, 2012 9:55:08 PM PDT
G. M. Cecchettini II says:
thanks for the info,good review
Posted on Mar 27, 2012 1:03:38 PM PDT
As a suggestion, try to find a sound system and receiver with HDMI pass through. I run my game systems, Blu Ray, and Comcast all through the receiver.
I never have to hear the crappy TV speakers and it only requires one HDMI input into the TV.
In reply to an earlier post on Mar 28, 2012 10:53:49 PM PDT
I've been looking at a few, of course. I know the TV speakers aren't the best in the world. The drivers are really too small for any real enjoyment. Though, I'll admit Samsung uses some quality, garbage speakers. They are less tinny than the speakers on almost every other TV I've heard, so the distortion on the highs isn't terribly frustrating. The possible exceptions are, of course, Sony and Sharp. Still, three-inch drivers do not quality make.
I also have to consider my current setup, possible future setup, available space, and environment. For the time being, my wireless headset is fine. It has much nicer drivers, and they hardly take up any space. The sound system also isn't a huge priority right now.
Posted on Apr 3, 2012 4:12:14 PM PDT
Great review. I really appreciate it. However, you said, "switches can cause a degradation in signal quality." This is not true with HDMI because it's a digital signal. It either works or it doesn't. It's impossible for a switch to introduce noise or anything else that will degrade the signal.
In reply to an earlier post on Apr 3, 2012 11:46:16 PM PDT
It is a stream of 1s and 0s, and a computer is extrapolating the data on both ends. If your cable or in-line devices introduce interference, you can cause signal degradation. At either extreme, the signal is either there or not. In not-so-extreme instances, you can introduce artifacts. Now, artifacts can be audible (pops and cracks), visual (mixed pallets), or latency (a/v synchronization and pixelation).
Most of the time, the noise is negligible. It is, after all, not traditional noise. Most won't even notice minor pixelation or audio distortions. Besides, a lot of higher-end televisions have 'hidden' features to double check the signal or auto-correct minor signal issues.
Posted on Apr 10, 2012 8:13:22 AM PDT
B. Mathias says:
Hi thanks for the review and i see that you are talking bout gaming and i was wondering when gaming hows the inputt lag for this television and thanks
Posted on May 4, 2012 8:22:05 AM PDT
R. Tanaka says:
Thank you for describing what inputs and outputs there are! I can't believe there are never any pictures of a television from the back.
In reply to an earlier post on May 14, 2012 1:28:55 PM PDT
Sorry my reply took a while. I wanted to test each device and several settings.
In the end, I notice negligible if any latency caused by the television. The only latency I noticed was likely caused by the low-end HDMI-C cable I'm currently using for my PC. Namely, the top third of the television appears out of sync by a fraction of a frame. If I hook my PC directly to the television, I don't notice it. If I hook it up through my switch, I notice it.
I thought it might have been the switch, but I hooked my consoles up through the switch with high-grade cables without latency. My conclusion, I should use cables for my original intended purposes. The cable I'm currently using for my PC was originally purchased for my camcorder. I'll get a higher-end cable, especially since I want to play Diablo III without sync latency.
I'll also point out that my preference for video games is role-playing and strategy. I don't have any first-person shooters to reliably test "fast-paced" games.
Posted on May 25, 2012 10:46:38 PM PDT
Thanks for the great review. Reading it I noticed you connected your PC for which you use it as a monitor. Same here. I'm assuming you used a DVI-HDMI adapter to achieve that? If so, the sound wasn't transmitted through the HDMI cable, right? How did you manage to get the audio to the TV? Usually what works is a cable from the headphone output of your computer to a similar input in the TV or sometimes to a double input (one red, one white)...sorry, I don't know their technical names. I tried both options but here they don't work at all.
I bought this same model and this has been the one thing I haven't been able to do. Any help would be enormously appreciated!
In reply to an earlier post on May 25, 2012 10:59:34 PM PDT
I'm going to get technical here, so I'm going to provide definitions.
The IO commonly referred to as headphone (output) or auxiliary/aux (input) is stereo analog phone.
The IO commonly referred to as RCA or red/white stereo is stereo analog phono.
With that said, my video graphics card is the MSI N560TX-Ti. It has two DVI outputs and a single mini-HDMI (HDMI-C) output. Therefore, my setup is different from yours. I'm hooking directly from HDMI-C (PC) to HDMI-A (TV). The sound is transmitted that way, and I simply Toslink out to my wireless headphones.
However, I should still be able to answer your question rather nicely. You'll need an auxiliary cable. It looks like it has stereo phone plugs on both ends. Anyway, you need to lead the cable from the headphone jack on your computer to the EX-Link on the back of the TV. That should line up with the DVI-HDMI jack on the side of the TV.
I hope that works. Enjoy!