Customer Review

356 of 360 people found the following review helpful
5.0 out of 5 stars Induction Cooking 101, August 15, 2010
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This review is from: Max Burton 6000 1800-Watt Portable Induction Cooktop (Kitchen)
As an experienced cook with many years of cooking with Induction under my belt, I would like to share my experience, and clear up a lot of bad information propagated by some well meaning, but totally unqualified people who have submitted comments about the Max Burton 6000 Induction Cooker. I am also an Electronics & Mechanical Engineer, giving me additional insight into some of the issues being discussed.

First off, this Induction Cooker is a tremendous bargain, comparing favorably with products many times its cost. It is truly an 1800 Watt (input) Induction Cooker. Induction Cookers cannot be compared in any way to simple hotplates that use a resistive heating element. Electric hotplates, similar to conventional gas and electric burners are at best around 50% efficient. The wasted heat simply goes into heating your kitchen and makes your stove and cookware handles scorching hot. Induction Cooking is typically 80-90% efficient. Remember that even though the Max Burton 6000 is a great value, it is still a light duty, "entry level" Induction Cooker (NOT for continuous commercial cooking use). If it is used properly, it should give years of reliable service. Even though I own a big Wolf commercial gas range, Induction hobs such as this have become my cooking "weapon of choice".

You can consider the following to be "Induction Cooking 101". This will help cooks who are new to Induction Cooking get a quick grip on the basics:

Cookware: Your satisfaction with Induction Cooking is directly proportional to the quality of your cookware. The cookware MUST have the following two characteristics:
First: At least the bottom must be ferrous (in other words, a magnet must strongly "stick" to it). Hint: Take a magnet with you when searching for cookware.
Second: Your cookware must also be a good heat conductor of heat. Induction cooking only generates heat in a 5-7" circle in the bottom of your pan. The heat conduction characteristics of the pan allow the heat to travel outward and up the sides of the pan. If the pan is a poor heat conductor, you will have a small hot spot in the center of the pan, and the rest will be relatively cool. The best cookware is triple-clad (magnetic stainless steel outside, aluminum or copper center layer, non-magnetic stainless interior cooking surface). Vollrath "Tribute" cookware is my favorite (not inexpensive, but really performs great!!). Next best is a laminated pad or "cap" on the bottom of a stainless pan (similar to the totally triple-clad, but doesn't conduct much heat far up the sides of the pan). Cast Iron and Enameled Cast Iron works fairly well for slow cooking and braising, but in spite of popular belief, it is not a great conductor of heat, and can exhibit hot spots if used at high heat settings. AGAIN, Induction Cooking has no radiant energy, nor a gas flame to heat the sides of your cookware. Your cookware MUST be a good heat conductor!

Yes you can preheat an empty pan (if you follow my directions)!. First a little information about the way your Induction Cooker senses the temperature of your pan. The heat sensor is located under the glass/ceramic cooking surface. Because of the thickness of this surface, it takes a finite amount of time for heat from the bottom of the pan to "soak" downward through the cooking surface in order to reach the temperature sensor. If you select a high heat or temperature setting initially, the pan will quickly get screaming hot before the heat sensor "knows" about it (a phenomenon called "overshoot"). The remedy is to start your pan in the "temp" mode at a low temp. setting (like 180°F). Once the pan, cooking surface and temp sensor has stabilized (you will hear a clicking sound as the cooker cycles the power on and off), you can advance to higher settings in a similar way and get on with your cooking.

I have read the comments about some users developing cracks in the top surface of the plastic housing to the left of the display & keypad. This is almost certainly caused by using cookware that laps over the edges of the cooking surface, or using very high heat settings, The flat part of the bottom of your cookware should not exceed 10 1/2" inches.

Unless you are bringing a pot of water to a boil, resist the temptation to cook at the higher heat and temperature settings unless it is really necessary. Remember that Induction Cooking pumps an astonishingly great amount of thermal energy into the BOTTOM of your cookware. Make sure that you and your cookware are up to the task!

The only big gripes that I have with the Max Burton 6000 is the INTOLERABLY LOUD BEEPER and the incredibly stiff, cheap power cord ("MAX", ARE YOU READING THIS??!!). As a qualified engineer, I have already "reasoned" with the beeper. . .

Happy Cooking! Bob Ziller
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Tracked by 8 customers

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Showing 1-10 of 52 posts in this discussion
Initial post: Nov 1, 2010 12:23:15 PM PDT
Bob,
Your commentary is so spot on. Thank you. We bought a combo radiant/induction Viking on line saving many dollero's. We had that baby popped in to the space vacated by our old electric burner unit in 45 minutes! I love the induction process. I wouldn't ever trade it for any other system. The reason why we bought the combo is because we had some expensive cookware that would not have worked with the new process. We decided to buy the Max Burton and it too has worked very well.
One thing I noticed was that the top of my fan hood is NEVER greasy anymore. I can't understand why more people don't invest in this. My only gripe is that I can't do any canning on the glass top, but that's what friends are for!
Thanks much for your well-reasoned commentary.
Sharon

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 2, 2010 11:28:08 AM PDT
Music Lovers says:
Sharon,
Thanks for the kind words. Forever, I thought gas was the only way to cook - not any more. Induction is so cool! Cooking in the hot summer is a pleasant experience, little wasted heat, cool cookware handles and awesome controllability. It's interesting that you brought up the fact that Induction cooking generates fewer greasy fumes & smoke (once the cook realizes that he has to have to throttle the heat back to a more reasonable level). One of the reasons for this is that conventional cooking forces excessive heat into the sides of the pans, evaporating & burning more cooking oils there, generating fumes that go everywhere.
I have an oooold pressure cooker that happens to work with induction - would work for small pressure canning batches. Large cheapo aluminum stockpots with a bottom induction pad should work great for regular water bath (non pressure) canning.
I try to avoid non-stick cookware for most tasks, only using non-stick when I really need it (eggs, frying things that like to stick, french toast, etc.) because of the finite lifespan of the non-stick surface. Mostly I use my old stainless-interior All-Clad, Gourmet Standard (now extinct, boo hoo!), along with inexpensive aluminum stock-pots with Induction compatible caps on the bottoms (Costco, etc.).
Recent Discovery: (!) I was never impressed with Circulon's previous lines of non-stick cookware, but their newest "Infinite" Circulon series is the best thing I have found for the money. Believe it or not, their factory website is the best place to buy their stuff (occasionally at Costco, too). I bought a 10" & 12" skillet, BOTH for $59, along with a 6 Qt. covered chef's pan also $59. Plus, on orders over $75, you get free shipping! Really nice hefty cookware, excellent heat distribution, beautiful, too. One minor flaw: There is a recessed area on the bottom of their pans, about 3" in diameter, that prevents the pan from making intimate contact with the center of the Induction stove's cooking surface, where the temperature sensor is located. This causes their pans (along with other manufacturer's pans that share this flaw), to not work in the temperature-controlled mode as well as some others. It also negates some of the over-temperature protection that the sensor also provides. I brought this up to Circulon, but was unable to talk with anyone other than "sales-types" who didn't seem to give a hoot about my comments. Other than this one quirk, their cookware works great, and is an exceptional value for the money (just don't pay list price!).
More Happy Cooking to you, again!

Bob

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 2, 2010 6:34:43 PM PDT
Interesting on the pots and pans advice.
Originally we bought on-line (NSF) UPDATE at very reasonable prices (every size they offered). Then we wanted to add some more and my husband found a sales rep in our neighborhood who sold him a couple of small sauce pans that are (NSF) WINCO
that are flat bottomed. He also bought two that are much heavier with that indentation you speak about (2.25"). I just tried an experiment and they all of the same size came to a boil at about the same time. I never thought about the indentation. But w/ the small pans and an 1800 watt induction burner they did seem to do the same. I use an 8 quart pan on the larger radiant w/ small jar rings to hold the bottles above the fray of the pan bottom: it will process 5 or 6 pint jars just fine.
What impressed me most about this whole system was that if I was going to buy a gas stove to get the same heat control I thought I would have to spend a bundle of dough aaaand I would have had to have invested in a new venting system. Twenty years ago I wanted an AGA stove and shoot I decided we could build a deck for the same amount of money. I'm glad I waited, but I still dream of the AGA.
What we brought up to the local "sales types" at home shows was why wouldn't you push the combination radiant/induction model??? As an aside we had a huge lightening strike about a year into our purchase. Viking paid for all the repairs. (There was only one man in Seattle who was familiar with them at the time.) I love my stove.
I have never used non-stick cookware. It just doesn't seem like the real deal to me. One thing I have noticed with the induction process is that the pans clean up very well no matter what has been cooked (or in one case over- cooked) in them. The other thing I can't rave enough about is that on the large 3300 watt burner I can deep fry halibut as well as any restaurant. The temp is consistent for no matter how long it is cooked (I use sunflower oil: no burn, YAY) it is a consistent heat to do crepes or Swedish pancakes as well, or Abelskever both on cast iron appropriate pans.
Did you say in your original commentary what brand stove you bought? I have "sold" two to friends who remodeled their kitchens. Viking are you listening???
Hey thanks for the kindred thoughts and also the information.
Sharon

Posted on Nov 9, 2010 6:00:06 PM PST
mikelipino says:
Bob,
Excellent commentary on the operation of the MB 6000 and proper selection of cookware (coming from a fellow [ex-] engineer). I think a lot of folks often confuse good heat distribution (clad pans) with good heat retention (cast iron), but your description is spot on. One thing I'm wondering though, how did you deal with the beeper? Did you cut the leads? Add in an in-line resistor? I'm fairly handy with a screwdriver and a soldering gun, and incessant beeping is one of my pet peeves...

Thanks, Mike

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 11, 2010 9:33:36 AM PST
Music Lovers says:
Mike,
Thanks for the compliment!
Yes, understanding the underlying physics is really helpful.
As far as the beeper, I took the low-tech approach. Here's the procedure: Remove all of the screws from the bottom of the unit. Flip it back to right-side up. Carefully remove the top of the unit, lifting straight up. Avoid any lateral movement. There is enough slop in the wires to lay the top aside. Don't get slimed by the heat sink goop on the spring-loaded temperature sensor in the middle if the induction coil. Locate the beeper on the circuit board, the black cylinder about 0.5" diameter by about 0.375" tall. Note the little hole in the top where the sound exits. I found that simply plugging the hole with a suitable material takes care of the over-exuberant beeper. You can stuff the hole with foam rubber, kleenex, or put a dab of silicone sealant, etc. over the hole. Use an appropriate tool to gather the smeared heat sink compound from the bottom of the cooking surface and put the little gob back in the center of the heat sensor assembly. If you have more heat sink compound available, I recommend adding a pea-sized amount, just to make sure that there will be intimate thermal contact between the sensor and the cooking surface after reassembly. Carefully re-install the top of the cooker, again avoiding lateral movement that would unduly smear the heat sink compound. Re-install the screws, and you're ready to boogie. My opinion is that this fix, if done carefully, should not clobber your warranty. Of course, that's up to the manufacturer. That bloody beeper was so insanely loud that I had to de-beep our induction cookers just to maintain sanity.
PS - Check out Circulon's website, their on line store has a great special on a several great performing non-stick pans, a combo deal on a 10" & 12" frypan (INFINITE CIRCULON SERIES) FOR $59. Their 6 Qt. covered Chef's pan is also a good deal at $59. Free shipping on orders over $75. These are pressure cast anodized aluminum, with a hefty Induction compatible pad on the bottom. Great thermal performance for the money. These are totally different from the mediocre pans they made in the past. Their only flaw is that they have a 3" diameter, slightly inset area in the bottom of the pans for their logo. This does seem to reduce the thermal contact with the cooking surface (and the temperature sensor). You just have to be a little more careful when operating in the cookers "temperature" mode.

Have fun!
Bob

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 11, 2010 9:47:55 AM PST
Music Lovers says:
Hi Sharon,
We live in a rural area, without access to natural gas. My big 8-burner Wolf range, with 2 big ovens, runs on Propane (at about $2.65 a gallon). Induction is far and away the cheapest way to cook because the efficiency is around 90%, compared to around 40% for Propane. Most of the time I use the Induction Cookers for day to day use, firing up the big Wolf only when I have a really big cooking project. I have two of the Max Burton 6000's (that I heartily recommend), and a couple of Bon Chef units that I DON'T recommend (they are very buggy & unreliable). I really think that higher power (3000-3500 watt) free standing induction cookers for the average consumer will become more available in the near future. Most of the inexpensive ones that are currently available have a lot of bugs & reliability problems. These are very complex electronic devices that really need to be engineered properly. There's a lot of really lousy stuff on the market right now.
See Ya!
Bob

In reply to an earlier post on Nov 11, 2010 11:11:23 AM PST
I'm glad you have rated the Burton 6000 so highly. It makes me more comfortable recommending it to folks as an auxiliary heating unit. Thanks much. Sharon

Posted on Mar 17, 2011 2:12:55 PM PDT
Does it have a UL sticker?

In reply to an earlier post on Mar 17, 2011 3:10:41 PM PDT
Music Lovers says:
Hello Iver,
I checked the bottom of the unit and the box that it came in. There is no UL approval sticker or label. This is not unusual these days because it's fairly costly for a manufacturer to pay for testing at the UL labs. This unit does carry an FCC and Intertek Listing approval. My opinion, as an engineer, is that this unit is well designed and should pose only a minimal safety hazard if used properly. I recommend that, if you have a need for more detailed information, you contact the manufacturer; Athena Brands, an Aervoe Industries, Inc. Company at (800) 272-8603 or www.athenabrands.com I'm sure they will be willing to answer any of your questions.
Bob Ziller

In reply to an earlier post on Jun 6, 2011 12:20:52 AM PDT
CAM says:
Bob, thanks for your invaluable commentary. I'm glad I ran into you. I wonder if you have any insight on my issue. I'm trying to find a burner(s) I can use my cast iron, long griddle, on. The griddle bottom portion that would come in contact with the burner would be approximately 8-1/2 x 15-3/4. Yet this bottom area is recessed approximately 1/2". Do you have any idea what portable burner(s) I could get to handle this particular problem? I had thought that the burners I've seen on other hotplates that are "set proud" might handle this recessing. I like the advantages the induction offers, but obviously I can't be limited to that if it won't work for this griddle. Would you have any helpful suggests?
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