|Item Weight||8.25 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||9.7 x 13.1 x 15.4 inches|
|Item model number||19922-SSSD-DST|
|Style||Contemporary / Modern|
|Installation Method||Deck Mounted|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
|Flow Rate||1.8 GPM|
|Number Of Holes||3|
|Number of Handles||1|
|Warranty Description||All parts and finishes of the Delta faucet are warranted to the original consumer purchaser to be free from defects in material and workmanship for as long as the original consumer purchaser owns their home. Delta recommends using a professional plumber for all installation and repair.|
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Delta 19922-SSSD-DST Ashton Single Handle Pull-Down Kitchen Faucet with Soap Dispenser, Stainless
|Price:||$211.99 & FREE Shipping|
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- MagnaTite docking keeps the kitchen pull-down spray wand firmly in place with a powerful integrated magnet, so it stays docked when not in use
- Multi-Flow delivers both 1.5 gpm stream and spray setting for water efficiency and 2.0 gpm stream setting for high performance
- DIAMOND Seal Technology features a valve embedded with diamonds to ensure like-new operation for the life of the faucet
- Touch-Clean spray holes allow for easy removal of hard water build-up
- Includes matching finish soap dispenser and deck plate for 1, 2, 3 or 4 hole installations
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|Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping||FREE Shipping|
|Sold By||michaelb8873||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||Amazon.com||HiTech Warehouse||TradeCorp|
|Finish Types||Brilliance Stainless||Arctic Stainless||Arctic Stainless||Stainless||Brilliance Stainless||Brilliance Stainless|
|Number Of Handles||1||1||1||2||1||1|
From the Manufacturer
The Ashton pull-down kitchen faucet from Delta features an integrated handle and pull-down spray wand with Delta's exclusive MagnaTite Docking System. The slight bell shape on the base and wand offers a simple yet high-end look in the kitchen. Diamonds are the hardest substance known to man, and DIAMOND Seal Technology takes full advantage of this property. Delta's exclusive DIAMOND Seal Technology uses a valve with a tough diamond coating to bring you a faucet built to last up to 5 million uses - plus it keeps water inside the faucet out of contact with potential metal contaminants.
Top customer reviews
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First, Delta thoughtfully included everything needed for the installation except for the Silicone II Plumbing Caulk I like to use to set plumbing fittings and a wrench for the compression fittings. Quality, fit, and finish was excellent.
The instructions are clear, even though they are on large format paper, with instructions for several models interspersed. I recommend taking a yellow marker to these instructions and circling the entries appropriate for the model you have purchased. The entries are clearly marked, but the model names don't differ enough to be quickly differentiated. After I marked the entries the instructions were quite short.
Following the instructions I assembled and installed the unit in minutes. I have installed a number of kitchen faucets, but I think most reasonably careful folks can install this unit in just about the same time. They even include a nice wrench to reach up behind the sink to tighten the mounting nut. It does not require strength or a lot of plumbing knowledge, just thought and a little body flexibility.
The first issue one comes to is the mounting method. For a single-hole mounting, such as on an under mount sink, one simply discards the 3-hole cover (escutcheon) and the reinforcing plate. If you are replacing a faucet on a triple-hole, top-mount sink, your choices are a bit more complex. If you have a heavy sink you can just use the escutcheon and reinforcing plate. If your sink is very light you can purchase an extra reinforcing plate for the underside of the sink from Delta. Information is on the instruction sheet. 3 CM thick granite is more than strong enough to support this faucet with no extra reinforcement. I would be careful to reinforce any 2 CM thick slab underneath the counter to prevent a high-rise faucet like this from cracking the slab due to an inadvertent sideways push, something that seems bound to happen sometime. Any high-rise faucet has tremendous leverage to exert pressure on its mount.
Inserting the hose into the unit is very easy. There is a plastic bead that you insert in the end of the hose to help it glide through the unit, then you remove the bead.
The PEX supply tubing feels stiff, but it is easy to bend into a loop if one is needed. Keep the loop loose to prevent kinking. The tubes may also be cut and compression fittings were provided (and instructions) if this is necessary. It connects to 1/4 inch compression fittings, usually at a stop (valve).
There is a special tool provided to remove the aerator from the spray head when needed. It is designed to clip onto a tube under the sink so it will always be available when you need it. You do not want to loose this, as getting the aerator out without it will be very difficult.
There are a few other items worth mentioning. The spray head controls are three buttons (two are on a "rocker"). The rocker switches from a "normal" stream to a shower spray and back. The other button doubles the water flow in the "normal" stream, which makes a huge difference when filling pots or the sink. As soon as the water is turned off the flow rate returns to its normal lower setting automatically. Another option is the ability to set a limiter that prevents turning on extremely hot water. The spray head works quite well pulled down into the sink and hanging free. This dramatically lessens the inevitable splashing when washing dishes.
The valve works smoothly and with very little practice I was getting a very fine control over flow rate and temperature. It is easy to carelessly turn off the valve and not get it fully off due to this fine control, so a little attention to this will train you to turn it off every time.
Make sure you follow the instructions to flush the unit before installing the spray head. You will save yourself some headaches.
The magnets that hold the spray head in place work well, although they aren't quite as strong as some reviews I read led me to believe. Turning the head 1/4 turn causes the magnets to repel the head away from its seat if your units seems to have stronger magnets.
The soap dispenser is mostly plastic (as I would expect because the reservoir is most of the unit.) It is tough and works great for us. Installation was a snap. Although the reservoir is easy to unscrew from the bottom, that is not the way to refill it. Just pull straight up on the pump to remove it and refill the unit from above. Since the reservoir is translucent a glance underneath will tell you how much soap remains. Pump action seemed odd to me at first, but I now find it convenient. If you are trying to get just a little soap out, say to wash your hands or charge a sponge, the pump nods forward slightly when you press with your thumb and puts out just the right amount--a tiny amount. But if you use the heel of your hand and pump more directly down a significant blob emerges. My experience with this unit is using undiluted standard green Palmolive, so it may behave differently with other brands of liquid.
So, this unit was a lot more quality than I expected. With a little experience I find that I have no negatives, although I thought I would not like the soap dispenser when I installed it. Amazing deal for the price!
UPDATE October 10, 2012
I have been asked about "flushing the unit" and about maintenance.
Flushing means running a few gallons of water through the unit prior to installing the spray head. This removes any trash in the pipes, valves, and hose before the spray head with all of its small orifices is installed. Run enough water to flush both the cold and hot-water lines all the way back to the hot-water heater and water supply.
Maintenance is required with any valve, regardless how expensive it is or if it is solid stainless steel. What maintenance is required depends more upon the mineral content in your water and how often you use it and clean it than what it is made of.
If you have very soft water (with no dissolved minerals and no suspended particulates, very rare for a water supply) your maintenance may be less than others. What kind of maintenance is required?
1. Suspended particulates. All sorts of tiny particles can be suspended in your water. This is often tiny bits of sand and ferrous (Iron) oxide. The Iron Oxide usually comes from the inside of the pipes in your house if you have steel pipes. Suspended particles work havoc on aerators and washers, although they also tend to scour (scratch) the inside of all of the plumbing. Maintenance primarily is removing the particulates caught in aerator screens and replacing parts worn by moving particulates and water.
2. Disolved minerals. Various Calcium compounds are often dissolved in our water, along with many other compounds. Maintenance problems occur when these molecules precipitate (come out of solution) from the water. Various things cause this to happen. One of them is heat. More Calcium-based molecules fit in cold water than in warm water. Ground water is cold (say 54 degrees F) when it dissolves the calcium and much warmer when it moves through your plumbing, so the calcium molecules drop out of solution in warmer water. Thus, you get Calcium (lime) build up all around your plumbing. It is especially troubling around small openings and valves. The easiest fix for this is often white vinegar and heat. For example, a spray head can be removed from the faucet and placed in warmed white vinegar. Let it soak, stirring occasionally until the minerals have been dissolved.
Minerals also precipitate from water because various chemicals are more attractive than water. Soap is one of these chemicals. Thus, soap combined with calcium can form a nearly indestructible coating on tile, porcelain, stainless steel, etc. Often, this coating can be removed with white vinegar and a bit of non-abbrasive scrubbing. Barkeepers Friend (R) is great for removing this from stainless.
3. Water. Water is both abrasive and corrosive. Pressurized water easily cuts steel, rock, bronze and brass. It slices through rubber. There is a lot of water that moves through a valve, especially if you use it a lot. The more water that moves, and the faster it moves, the more destruction it does. The only fix for water abrasion is to replace the worn part.
Picking a valve for minimal and easy maintenance means knowing something about your own water. Look at old valves and see what the problems are, then look for products that fix those problems.
For example, a stainless steel exterior can help keep faucets gleaming, but the interior may not be required to be stainless. A PEX tube is ideal for running all sorts of water through it (PEX is Polyethylene Cross-link), it is tough, very pressure resistant, non-splitting, and flexible. But it isn't ideal for the outside of a faucet. So this faucet uses it to hold the water from the supply to the valve and from the valve to the spray head. The outside of the faucet is stainless steel. The valve is ceramic, ideal for a low-maintenance valve. To protect the tube from the valve to the spay head, multiple layers are used including stainless steel braid.
I find the engineering of this valve to be top-knotch and state-of-the-art. It is thoughtfully assembled.
You will need to perform maintenance on the spray head. There is a toggle activating a valve that switches between spray and aerator. Mineral deposits will build in the cracks around the toggle. Above the toggle there is a "double the flow rate" button. The same is true for this. The aerator and spray orifices will eventually foul from mineral deposits. The outside stainless steel body will require cleaning (Barkeepers Friend).
Eventually, all valves need to be replaced. You will probably want to do it as a matter of style before this valve is toast.
The only negative I can ding this valve with now is that some people do not have a strong enough grip to fully flip the toggle between spray and aerator without concentrating. Thus the spray will be anemic. Cleaning the spray head in a warm white vinegar bath seems to improve this, however, it seems more related to mechanical advantage and hand strength. A sufferer of Arthritis might not want to flip the toggle very often.
Delta Soap Pump Information
The Delta RP47888 soap pump can have several issues. A properly working pump will have a smooth action throughout its approximately 1/2 inch stroke. And it will stay primed, meaning you will get soap out with the first pump (except for the first time you use it.)
If your pump is not working well, and it isn't broken, the problem is probably due to assembly problems. Ordering a replacement pump is the solution. Delta says there are no serviceable parts in the pump, and this is true, but it may be possible to correct assembly problems or remove trash.
￼Unfortunately, I cannot include a picture of the "exploded" parts, so I will describe them, from bottom to top.
1. Feed tube, slides into the case.
2. Case or cylinder.
3. Foot valve (nipple points up, made of very flexible Silicone.)
4. Cup (fits over the large end of the spring)
6. Cap (long end fits down into the top of the spring).
7. Head valve (nipple points up into the piston).
8. Piston and O-ring. (Large end down.)
When hand pressure pushes the piston down, the spring is compressed and the contents (soap or air) of the case (cylinder) are pushed against the closed foot valve, and since the contents cannot escape that way, the contents are pushed up through the head valve, into the interior of the piston, and up through the spout.
When the hand pressure is released, the spring pushes the piston back up, the head valve closes, the foot valve opens and soap or air is pulled up the feed tube and into the case or cylinder.
Problems usually center around the Spring and cap. The cap fits down into the top (narrow end) of the spring. Sometimes it is inserted improperly at an angle. This causes the action of the pump to be very rough, the spring will bow to the side, and the cap will become deformed. This can cause the foot valve to malfunction, too.
Other problems can relate to the liquid soap if it gels, hardens, crystalizes or has impurities. Any of these can cause the valves to stay open and keep the action from being smooth.
The case lid snaps into the case. It can be quite difficult to see the point the join, but it is in the middle of the collar, the widest part of the assembly. Carefully use a strong knife blade, inserting it in between the case and lid, causing the lid to snap out of the case. Slide it off the piston.
Slide the piston out of the case. The head valve should stay in the piston, the cup should stay on the top of the spring, but they might be loose. Be careful to not lose the parts.
Tap the top of the cylinder on a hard surface and the spring, cup and foot valve should come out. Rinse any soap or trash off all parts. Do not push any sharp tool through the bottom of the case or the top of the cylinder. Use a flat-ended pin punch or a 1/8-inch wood dowel carefully to dislodge any stuck part.
Once all the parts are clean, inspect them for deformation or roughness. If a part is rough or deformed, replace the entire pump. The spring should be tapered but straight.
Insert the nipple of the foot valve up into the bottom of the cup. The cup fits over the large end of the spring. The long end of the cap fits down into the small end of the spring. Holding the assembly with the cup end up, slide the cup end of the assembly up into the upside-down case. The foot valve will fit into the depression at the bottom of the case.
Insert the head valve into the bottom of the cylinder. Put a small amount of Silicone grease or Vaseline Petroleum Jelly onto the O-ring. Push the bottom of the cylinder (the large end) into the case and settle the head valve on the top of the spring cap. Slide the case lid, tab end down over the small end of the cylinder and snap the tabs into the top of the cylinder.
Make sure the cylinder moves up and down easily. Hold a finger over the intake hole and pump the cylinder. Suction should be exerted against the skin of the finger.
The valve can be serviced, so long as no new parts are required. However, the 15 or so minutes to disassemble, clean, lubricate, and reassemble is possibly not worth the $10 or so needed for a new valve (with shipping). I actually recommend purchasing several at one time (saving on shipping).
o Good looking
o Quick and easy installation
o Quality stainless steel material
o Good flow
o Dual flow formats - Shower and Jet
o Flow boost - not a huge difference, but available nonetheless
o Magnetic head sits tight but can also be easily moved around
o Soap dispenser looks nice
o Refilling soap is easy, just lift the top and pour soap in (slowly)
o Head swiveling motion is very smooth
o On/Off knob is very responsive
o A little expensive, but probably worth the money due to lifetime warranty
o A little large, but you get used to it pretty soon
o The flip side of the knob being too responsive is that it's difficult to get warm water, you either get cold water or hot water, you have to really fine tune the knob to get the desired warmth
o The soap dispenser neck is too small, so when you pour soap in it gets choked pretty easily, you have to pour it slowly and make sure the flow is narrow and falling in the center of the dispenser
o Due to the flow boost setting, water can start splashing around on the countertop rather easily, you will need to fine tune the flow to avoid that
o The soap dispenser is plastic but looks good nonetheless
Overall, I would recommend this faucet.