B&W 77mm #110 3.0 (1000x) Neutral Density Glass Filter
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With a light intensity reduction of ten f-stops, this B+W Neutral Density Filter has a slightly stronger warm tone than the ND 106. Its principal field of application is the observation and documentation of industrial processes with extreme brightness, such as steel furnaces, incinerators, glowing filaments in halogen- and other bulbs. The filter factor is 1000x.
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As noted in other reviews, you do end up with a warmer image which can be corrected in post, but so far I like it and have kept the warming effect on most of my images so far.
Does not vignette on my Nikon 17-35mm f2.8 (on a full frame Nikon D3S), even when stacked with a Hoya UV0 filter.
So far, the lack of coating has not been an issue.
To give you an idea of how it performs...at the beach (light grey sand, sunny day), pointed towards the sun, I'm getting something like 25 seconds at f22 and iso 100, and perpendicular to the sun I got around 30 seconds at f13, iso 100.
That said, I just put this filter through its first real test and I'm very excited about its capabilities. It enables me to shoot 25-100 second exposures in broad daylight, giving water that smooth, silky look (but that goes without saying!). The filter is very nicely built, with a full brass ring, and is surprisingly (though not at all annoyingly) heavy. I just uploaded some HDRs in which I used it (check the customer images for this product), and I'm extremely happy with the results. It definitely adds a whole new dimension to my photography.
One stern warning for potential buyers, though: This thing is not easy to use and certainly not for snapshots, with all due respect. First of all, the viewfinder is all but useless when the filter's screwed on to your lens. You will have to compose, meter, screw the filter on, and manually calculate the correct exposure time with filter, as metering is impossible when virtually no light is coming in. I multiply the metered shutter speed (without filter) by 1024 (10 stops) and then usually use the bulb setting on my camera to take the shot. A correction of 10 stops is actually not enough for my copy; it's more like 11 or 12 stops. So I usually stop up my shutter speed a time or two and bracket the exposures, which I would do anyway for HDR.
Secondly, vignetting is clearly noticeable when using this filter. It can probably be removed in post or left alone, depending on your preferences, but it has to be taken into account. At 10 mm (DX) the filter's ring doesn't appear in the corners, but if you stack it on top of a polarizer, it does.
Finally, in some circumstances the brownish color cast can be very hard to correct. I actually purchased this filter in February, when snow was on the ground where I live. I tried shooting a little brook close by with snow on the banks and in cloudy conditions. However I tweaked the white balance sliders, I couldn't get the snow to look right. The right way to go, I guess, would be to take exposures with and without the ND filter, and then use layers and masks in Photoshop to blend them. That way, you can benefit from the great effect the ND filter has on the water without it touching the rest of the image. As I said, I'm personally not there yet...
Bottom line: If the terms 'shutter speed' and 'white balance' are alien to you, this product is probably not right for you. If they are, and you like to push your boundaries a little once and a while, this is a great-quality product and potentially a fantastic addition to your gear set!
The 10 stop (110) filter is not the easiest to use though. Because it is so dark, you will have to get everything set before you screw it on. You have to compose, focus and then turn the focus to manual. Then meter the scene and calculate how long your exposure will need to be with the filter on. To take the picture, you will need to use the camera in Manual mode. I compose, focus and meter in Aperature priority, then switch the focus to manual. I then switch to Manual mode and match the setting from Aperature priority. I set the camera to a 2 sec timer with remote. I use a wireless remote to trigger the camera and then take the picture with the camera. You may have to take the picture a couple times to get the exposure that you actually want. Sometimes it seems that this may be a little over 10 stop but I usually will do the shot at a few different lengths. I figure if you went through all that set up, just take a few different length exposures to help ensure you get what you wanted.
A few examples of photos I have taken using the 10 stop filter: Click on 'all sizes' above picture to see larger sizes.
30 sec day time exposure
60 sec day time exposure
2 min day time exposure
8 min exposure just after sunset
It's expensive but worth the money to spend on good quality glass.
It's around mid-afternoon and kind of cloudy day, with a super wide angle lens plus wireless remote and let it expose for 2 mins, the water came out so smoothly and silky. I love it.
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