|Item Weight||34.6 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||34.8 x 11.4 x 7.9 inches|
|Item model number||63134|
|Manufacturer Part Number||63134|
|OEM Part Number||63134|
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Pro-Series 63134 Q-Slot 2 Black 2-Bike Hitch Mounted Bike Carrier
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- Will not damage high-performance frames; Padded contact points; Tilting vertical stabilizer
- Fully adjustable wheel slots; Center tube tilts for rear bike access
- A-Coat and powder coat rust resistant finish; Rise shank for extra road clearance
- Tilting vertical stabilizer; Bolt-on 2" shank adapter
- Fits 1-1/4" and 2" receivers; Compact storage
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The Q-Slot 2 Bike Carrier fits in 1-1/4" and 2" receivers. Fully adjustable wheel slots provide a custom fit for your bikes and padded contact points snugly hold the bikes and will not damage the bike frame. The center tube tilts for rear bike access. A rise shank provides extra road clearance.
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It assembled quickly: only two bolts needing a ratchet, socket and or a couple of wrenches. Probably took 10-15 minutes, which included several walks through the garage for the right tools. The rack is largely pre-assembled and only needs sliding on and tensioning with the knobs. [Tip for the mechanically challenged: cut the box up and lay it flat for your assembly to avoid chipping the thin power coat/paint.] It rattled when folded so I slid the hooks down and sandwiched them between the Q-slots and wrapped it with a mini-bungee cord. The foam on the Q-slots eliminated the rattling nicely. Fully assembled for two bikes, it weighed a touch over 24 lbs.
A couple of reviewers mentioned very tight tensioning knobs, so I squirted some lube on the bolts, ran them up and down to check for binding. The knobs weren't overly tight or cross-threaded, and they held the hooks/Q-slots in place, i.e. I had zero problems loosening or tightening them. As an added safety measure, when transporting your bike consider using an extra mini-bungee or strap over the j-hook and top tube and the wheels.
On the topic of safety, Curt Manufacturing (trailers and accessories) for warranty coverage recommends a strap to relieve stress off of this style rack when loaded. Some suggested that an ugly-factor negated using such. Uglier would be bikes and rack falling onto the highway at X mph. There are also slots at the bottom (inverted T) for strapping and or locking bike to the rack. The Sportrack comes with a lock and cable, but I don't feel it justifies $80 difference.
The Pro Series Q-slot, Swagman XTC, Prorack, Hollywood and Thule Sportrack have their key features: e.g. ratcheting hooks vs knob-tensioners; gray vs black; cables or springs on the pins; heavy rubber straps for the wheels instead of velcro; lock & cable vs get-your-own. Although I liked the ratcheting adjusters for the top-tube hook, the Pro Series welded J-hook impressed me as a good design, more solid than a hook clamped between plastic. Swagman is the other brand that welds the hook.
I was surprised with the 1/2" threaded sleeve welded inside the 1-1/4" bike rack tongue (1/2" x 13, a coarse thread). This allows use of an anti rattle pin (lockable or non-locking) or a 1/2" bolt and locking nut. The rack also came with a regular j-pin and there's a second hole on the tongue for inserting that--your choice.
It's great that bikes on the rack can be centered behind a vehicle, and there are three points of attachment (top-tube and both wheels). Bottom line, for the price it's on par with its competition, equally well constructed. I think it'll last a while--with a safety strap. I would recommend it to others looking for an affordable, bike centering rack. Use your saved and hard earned $ for some other bike gadgets.
Because of this, the bike wobbles in the carrier - I have lost a bike TWICE in this carrier - luckily I keep an extra strap on the bike so when it comes out of the clamp it doesn't fall off onto the road.
In addition, because of the wobbling, the frame of the bike saws away at the foam of the clamp - marring the frame from the rubbing, and later on allowing the steel to touch the bike frame.
Also, the friction clamp on the vertical post likes to come loose - again causing the bike to end up on the road.
I did not expect much for the price but the product is unsafe, and will destroy your bike, be warned
HOWEVER - the hold-down clamps wore a hole in its foam rubber padding and abraded the finish and wore a hole in the finish to bare metal. I think even leaning hard on those brackets is not sufficient. I have ended up folding a washcloth into a strip a couple inches wide (approx 4 layers of terrycloth) and wrapping it around the top tube, then getting the top tube holder as snug on it as I can. It's gone that way for a couple thousand miles now ok. But I still need to get some touch-up paint for where the carrier eroded the bike finish.
IF you use this product, requires extra steps to protect the bike finish.
No matter what I do, I have not been able to tighten the top tube holders sufficiently to prevent looseness and rubbing. Both of our bikes now have several places where the finish is down to bare metal and rusting. It seems to hold the bikes ok, but there's usually 1/2" or so gap between the tube holder (that hook on top) and the top tube. We'd gotten this because I thought a platform-type carrier would hold the bikes more securely, but now I wish we'd gotten the kind that holds the bikes hanging from the top tube.
1. Avoid abrupt-angle driveways from the street. The carrier frame sticks out far enough that when the front end of the car goes up the angle, the carrier might hit the pavement and be bent.
2. Avoid going fast on bumpy roads, unless you want to find out the limits of the carrier's strength and how well you secured your bike(s).
3. Use extra padding under the foam sleeve on the top-tube hold-down, to prevent rub damage to the bike paint.
4. When you load the bike(s), make sure everything is fitting optimally and is plenty tight, and double check that all the mounting pins have their safeties in place.
Edit: I hadn't read any of the other reviews here when I wrote the above. I don't know why I haven't had any of the insufficient-tightening issues that others have reported. I've never thought of myself as having unusually strong hands, but my unit gets plenty tight with no special effort and no tools.
As to the rack-wobble...the mount tube appears to me to be intentionally not super-rigid-tight in the hitch-socket. I think that's because that makes it able to absorb road shocks without something breaking. That hasn't been a problem for me. I'm a mechanical engineer, though...maybe I'm better able to discern the difference between shock-absorbing-wobble and poor-design-wobble.
As to using bungee cords as a backup securing method...I always use two securing methods for critical tasks. My preference is a Velcro strap from the bike top tube to the rack vertical post. I don't see my adding a backup strap as an indication that the rack is inadequate...rather, it's just me being conservative.
Edit after six weeks of frequent use: This is a great rack. Zero problems, excellent functionality.