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on April 27, 2007
This unit has a very substantial cast iron central section with a powerful and quiet motor and belt drive system and smoothly operating elevate and angle controls. It is virtually vibration free, despite what I consider a somewhat under-reinforced leg assembly with two wheels and two adjustable pads. The wheels seem like an afterthought - the legs twist and shimmy if one really tries to move the saw around. The weight of the saw however seems enough to press everything in place when in position so that there is no vibration. One can take the wheels off, making it very sturdy and nonmobile, or then set the leg assembly on a good aftermarket rolling stand.

The stamped metal extensions felt a little flimsy, especially in comparison to the hefty central section, but they firm up when assembly is integrated with the front and rear rails. Assembly instructions start out detailed but actually miss or misstate a few things - luckily one can figure most of it out. Aligning the rail sections and extensions takes some finesse, but everything does align quite well. The fence and miter are quite good, but not top of the line (as expected in this price range). The saw arbor assembly came perfectly aligned. I replaced the stock blade with a Freud blade in the course of the initial assembly (offered by Amazon with the purchase.) Cutting 2" thick oak was smooth and precise. Overall, an excellent value. I would give it 4 and 1/2 stars.
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on September 6, 2008
I bought this saw a few months ago...after reading the reviews here. They were right on for both the pros and the cons. Thank you!

The manual is a little vague in places as mentioned. I had the most trouble putting the stand together. Once the saw is on it, that thing isn't going anywhere.

My only negative about this saw, so far, are the wheels and brackets for them. As suggested, I beefed up the legs with angle iron. Luckily, I don't have to roll the saw far because it's pretty hard to roll. I think the brackets that hold the wheels need to be stronger. Not exactly sure what the deal is. They don't seem to give way but I do notice the metal of the legs bows somewhat. Not that big of a deal since I've added the angle iron though.

As for cutting, this thing is a dream. Especially if you are moving up from a smaller saw as I did. The fence is true as is the mitre guide.

All in all, I'm very pleased and would recommend this saw highly.
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on March 17, 2008
This is a very good saw at this price point. Belt drive, iron table, solid wings, quiet motor and the dust shroud picks up 95% of the dust, and I'm only using a shop vac. (I would not recommend a direct drive saw just based on the excessive noise and vibration.) However, the comment made by one of the other users is correct, the legs holding the wheels are not strong enough. I remedied this relatively easily by drilling two 5/8" holes just above the wheel for two 1/4-20 carriage bolts and running a piece of 1/2" angle steel up to the leg bolt on the opposite side. This triangulates the leg and keeps the wheel from twisting. Jet should add this mod to the saw. All other points are good for this machine.
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on April 6, 2007
Excellent value for the price. The fence and cross cut slide were dead on right out of the box. The shroud around the blade, with its built in dust collection port for a shop vac hose, collects 90% of the sawdust. The belt drive is quiet and eliminates vibration. The assembly instructions could have been a little clearer. I replaced the stamped metal table extension on the right side with the table from my Bosch bench top router table. The 27" x 18" table fit the space perfectly. Simply drilled a few holes and bolted it on. I have used it to cut walnut, cherry, oak and lacewood and it goes through them all with no problem.
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VINE VOICEon July 14, 2008
I've had this saw about 9 months and am satisfied with it. Lose the fence and get a real one. Whoever decided to put a fence with a rounded top on this or any saw should be ashamed. Just try to get a jig to sit square on it. It does however, set and hold like a rock, so for just the rip aspects it's adequate. Most people upgrade the fence and miter bar on just about any tablesaw that I've seen, regardless of the brand.

But I have a major complaint and warning to owners of this saw. Do not roll it on the casters, even though they are part of the leg design. when I am not using it, I roll the saw about two feet, no turns, over to the side of the shop so it will leave more room. Three days ago, I lifted the non-caster side up about one inch - enough to put the weight on the casters to roll. I've done it many times. Well, the LEG COLLAPSED below the lower brace! Just folded under. The 207 pound saw almost went over and crashed on it side. I was able to hold on to it and bring it up to balance. I had a time trying to manuever this thing against something that would prop it up, eventually making it to the assembly table. This is a dangerous situation. If the leg is not capable of holding the weight while it's rolling, why put a caster on it?

Jet has a great warranty, but you have to go through all the hoops in order to have them look at it. I can't say how long that would take. I just ordered a new left leg to replace the collapsed one rather than go through the process required to return it. The leg is $14, but the shipping is over $19. I wrote a letter to Jet, but they haven't replied yet. Since I own several Jet machines and have recommended Jet to everyone who's asked, I hope they will do something to smooth my feathers.

When I finish repairing it, I'm going to build a rolling platform for it before I roll it anywhere. Otherwise the saw is accurate, the table is level and substantial and easy to work with. Plenty of power. Just be careful if you roll it.

UPDATE: Jet had a customer rep and a technical services rep contact me first thing on Monday morning. They located my order and cancelled all costs and shipping, then expedited it out. The tech guy told me a couple of things to look for and assured me that if the new leg attaches easily and is lined up, then the entire base is alligned and there is no danger. I still am gun shy of rolling it, but a roller platform will eliminate that threat. KUDOs to the Jet people, my confidence has been restored.

UPDATE 2: The leg issue forced me to build a table saw center that I've had designed for about two years (e.g. the cobbler's children have no shoes!). Without a lot of detail, I took the saw off the factory stand and set it on the cabinet. Here's the update - The saw's motor pokes out about 3 inches below the bottom of the saw. The factory stand is open and the motor doesn't sit on anything. My design called for a solid top so the motor caused the saw to lean. Solution: I installed a 2x4 "skirt" for the saw to sit on, leaving about a 3 1/2" space below the saw to accommodate the motor while encasing the saw as well. Problem solved. If you are going to make a similar sawing center, watch for the hangy-down motor in your design and adjust your height calcualtions by plus 3 1/2". Also, don't use anything less that 3 inch casters.
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on July 28, 2009
I purchased this saw 3 years ago when I moved into my first house and was finally able to begin woodworking. I'm taking it as a serious hobby. In retrospect I wish I would have purchased the lowest priced cabinet saw from Grizzly. That being said, this is a good saw. Just don't count on rolling it around a lot 'as is'. I upgraded the steel wings to cast iron and found a used xacta fence. The fence was a definite necessary upgrade for high quality work. The cast iron wings were essectial as well but not as much as the fence.
My saw came to me a little out of square. Squaring the miter slot to the blade is extremely trying of my patience with this saw. I had to buy the 'saw pals' from in-line industries to help me get it precise.
I am glad that the motor is located in the saw and not out the back because I have limited room in my shop and my jointer sits right behind my table saw. This has had enough power to tackle anything I've thrown at it so far but I think I'd like 1/2 more HP next time. I don't care for the dust collection either. I've thought about enclosing the bottom of the saw but I'm afraid it would drastically cut down the life of the motor when enclosed with dust.
After all of my upgrades, which were necessary for my needs from this saw, I would have been better off purchasing something else.
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on December 28, 2007
I purchased my Jet 708100 from a local machine shop ($399 plus sales tax), and consider it an excellent value.

Assembly was easy (once I figured out some missing info in the instructions) and the trunion, fence, and miter gauge all checked out true with no alignment or adjustment required. I installed my saw on one of Jet's adjustable rolling basess and have found it to be quite stable.

The only negative I have found is the table insert. It does not conform to any standard I can find. The (optional) dado insert has a slot wide enough to drive a truck through, so the only way I found to deal with small pieces is to adapt a shop-made sled to act as a zero-clearance insert.

(Updated 3/31/08) A Jet dealer gave me a part number (709382) for a zero clearance insert, but couldn't locate one anywhere, and it doesn't show up in their online parts. I suspect he had it confused for the ZCI Jet makes for their Xactasaw.

For those who need a zero-clearance insert for the Jet 708100, making one is a viable alternative but takes a little patience.

1) I bought a 1/4" phenolic sheet (from McFeely's), and used a pattern-cutting router bit to make a blank that fit the saw's throat.

2) The resulting blank was a lttle proud of the saw table, so next, I cut a 1/16" x 1/2" rabbit around the underside of the blank.

3) I drilled 4 holes for leveling screws, and threaded them to #10-24, and used #10-24 3/16" set screws.

4) I used a 2" long piece of spring steel to fashion a front hold-down screw and attached it to the blank with a #10 1/2" flathead machine screw, countersunk.

5) I drilled a 1/2" finger hole toward the rear of the blank, and a 5mm countersunk hole to accomodate the flat head screw that secures the insert at the front.

6) I installed a 6" dado blade, installed the blank insert, clamped a scrap piece of 2x4 over the throat plate, and raised the blade through the insert.

7) Lastly, I replaced the dado blade with the 10" blade I run in my saw, clamped a 2x4 scrap over the throat plate, and raised the blade to complete the cut through the insert.

The first one took a couple of hours to make, with most of the time spent trying to find a suitable piece of spring steel for the front hold-down clip. Now that I have the necessary parts (set screws, spring steel, etc.) it takes about a half hour to knock one out, and I have made ZCI's for each of my most common dado setups as well as my thin kerf finish blade.
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on October 3, 2007
After much research I decided to take the plunge and buy this saw. I was a little concerned about the different approach Jet has taken with this saw to mount the motor inside the saw enclosure because I could not find any advertisement that showed photos of this and I did not want to have a "table-top saw mounted on a stand". It turns out this is a "REAL" saw and actually how they have mounted the motor under the table is pretty impressive and in fact it has a two belt drive system, one "regular belt to one shaft and another short and flat belt from that shaft to the arbor in a very compact assembly.

Assembly required approximately 4 hours, I agree with previous reviews that the assembly instructions are a little hard to read (part identification numbers are strange in the assembly directions), eventually I just quit using them, you almost don't need them.

The packaging was superb, all pieces including all nuts and bolts neatly separated into individual plastic bags. There is not even one extra screw with this saw which I suppose speaks well for JET's quality control but if you get a bad screw you will be supplying your own. I bought this saw as an upgrade to a $200 portable table saw which burned the edges of my wood... not worth trying to align... wanted a better saw anyway...

This saw came perfectly aligned, the fence is actually quite impressive and is perfectly square... I am impressed with the miter gauge, it is substantial and had a snug fit. I second the comment that adjusting the side-wings takes a little finesse but you soon see how to do it and it comes out very well..

Cutting wood with this saw is like cutting butter compared with my other saw and what a beautiful cut it makes... like I said, this saw came perfectly aligned from the factory but should you need it the zero and forty-five degree adjustments are made with two allen screws from the top of the table.

Initial impressions are quite good. I bought a mobile base but when I saw how sturdy the wheels themselves are with this saw, I decided not to use the mobile base. Moving the saw is sort of like moving a wheel-barrow which is not too bad from what I have seen so far..

So far, I like it and really look forward to using it more.

******* ADDITIONAL COMMENT (after a few days...)*******

Just a small modification to my review.... after moving the saw around a bit more, I have to agree with the previous reviewer's comment about the legs shimmying too much when you try to roll the saw. I ended up with one wheel that was getting a bit chewed up even when I removed the lock-down thumb screw because the leg twisted enough to make alignment a problem. I removed the casters and adjustment screws from all four legs and put the saw in a craftsman mobile base set at 28" x 28". It works just fine and I would recommend anyone buying this saw to do the same if you want to be able to move it around. The picture of the JET mobile base looks just like the Craftsman for what it's worth.
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on April 22, 2008
I love my new little Jet, but I to found that they were proud of the dado insert ($44), and a zero tolerance was unheard of for this saw. Being a retired aircraft mech. I to came upon the phenolic material idea, and it works great. Instead of using the 1/4" material, I used 1/8" and it is strong enough, and requires only flush bit router work to make fast blanks. A 24" x 24" sheet from McMaster Carr was enough to make three, with some material to spare. I used the blade pass technique the other reviewer used to make both a zero and a dado insert. The 1/8' material is a viable replacement for the 1/8" mild steel stamped plate that comes with the table. Just make sure that you have the blank secure to the table (I used the rip fence and it worked fine) and pass the blade through at a good but not too slow rate, to avoid burning the material.
The phenolic will drill and tap fine for the leveler set screws ( I used a Drill and Tap set from Greenlee to make the 10/32 holes in one single pass). Allen socket screws are easy to find at local hardware stores.
Once I solved the insert problem and welded up a stand alone outfeed table with a transfer roller top, I was making precision firewood in no time! All in all I really love this saw. For the price, I think it's one smooth cutting deal.
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on April 22, 2009
I love the saw, I have been a Jet owner for years and bought this saw after a fire. However, I am frustrated with the plastic dust collector port under the saw blade. It disconnects each time I tilt the saw, not from the hose pulling away but the angle of the blade disconnects the plastic parts that came with the saw. Since the motor sits lower on this saw, it is rather difficult to attach a false bottom to collect dust from the entire saw base. After a year I still have saw dust everywhere with with a 1200 cfm Jet dust collector. Think twice if you want a clean shop.
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