|Part Number||Alpha Tig 200X (2015)|
|Item Weight||38 pounds|
|Product Dimensions||19 x 23 x 12 inches|
|Item model number||TIGG200|
|Item Package Quantity||1|
2017 AHP AlphaTIG 200X 200 Amp IGBT AC DC Tig/Stick Welder with PULSE 110v 220v 3 YEARS WARRANTY
|Sale:||$719.00 ($10.89 / count) + $30.50 shipping|
|You Save:||$81.00 (10%)|
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- !!! 2017 MODEL !!!! !!! 2017 MODEL !!!! 200HRTZ on PULSE FREQ AND AC FREQ and NEW TORCH
- will do 1/4" aluminum and 3/8" mild stee and 110/220 volts and is capable of welding 7018, 6013
- Advanced Inverter Technology with PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) Using IGBT technology
- quality TIG welding on aluminum, stainless or steel and precise welding of thinner-gauge materials
- unit features HF start tig and includes a foot pedal for great tig welding control and Operation
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Powerful 200 amp AC/DC tig welder with stick function allows both the professional and hobby welder a wide range of welding opportunity s with this tig welder . We offer professional quality at affordable pricing allowing even the part time user the chance to own a quality welder within a reasonable budget . PWM , (Power width modulation ) along with IGBT technology design gives the most reliable and long lasting power source in this class With high performance on both 110v (150 amp output ) and on 220v with a full range of pulse features and cleaning control for AC .with these options it allows the best versatility in a welder in this price range that is available on the market today. Standard tig torch consumables are used in the WP17 flex hose torch and a seperate tig control switch is supplied for those who wish to add the trigger switch to the torch. High quality metal foot pedal control is supplied for ease of use. SPECS: Start AMP 10-200 Pulse AMP 10-200 End AMP 10-200 Pulse Freq .5-5 Pulse Time On 10-90% Post Flow 1-10 Ac Balance 30-70% 2T/4T
BRAND NEW UNIT , ALL CA ORDERS SUBJECT TO 8.5% CA TAX
Top Customer Reviews
I have worked on large scale electronic system for 40 years and currently make my living fixing multi-million dollar linear accelerators. I am more than qualified to make the following observations. The lack of technical information is unacceptable. To put that in perspective Miller includes a general schematics and a parts list in their well written manual. It is readily accessible on their web page. AHP has only been in business for couple of years. If they keep treating their customers the way they are treating me they won't be around much longer. Typical of low end Chinese electronics, the circuits are constructed with many unmarked components. Good luck fixing this thing without an accurate schematic if the company goes out business.
Customer service issues aside there are several other disturbing things about the design and construction of this Tig. The original boost control board in my machine was reworked. The boards are coated with a clear sealer which is a good thing in harsh environments. It appears as though the process is done before the leads were cut off which defeats the purpose. When they replaced the component they did not remove the coating. When they soldered in the new integrated circuit they used excessive heat and did not bother to clean flux off the board after repair. It is a recipe for erratic behavior. My question is did they rework the board in China or am I the second owner of this unit? One of the circuit boards in what I assume is the inverter, is cantilevered over the edge of a heat sink. The free hanging end is connected to some buss bars. They will expand and contract with temperature changes and flex the traces on the board. It is a point of eventual failure. My last critique is the design of the inverter. It is constructed with numerous small devices connected in parallel. Due to small differences in switching times and conductivity there is always more stress on one device than the others. Eventually the device will fail and over stress the remaining devices which is most likely the cause the cascading failure complete with fire and smoke described by a couple of reviewers here. This design approach goes back to the old days when individual devices were incapable of handling the power. Today it is used because the big IBGTs are expensive. The smaller devices trade off reliability for cost. Of course since none of these devices are marked I can only speculate on their capacity based on physical size and the shear number of them in the circuit. I don't even know if they use the newer more robust IGBT technology or if it is built with SCRs or large conventional transistors.
Given the number of satisfied reviewers here I conclude that if you get a good one, and don't have to endure what passes for customer service at AHP, it has the makings of a competent hobby class welder. In my opinion if you don't use it too hard, it may hold together for a few years of careful use before it meets it's end. If you buy one of these you will probably want to upgrade the torch and foot pedal. By the time you do that you could almost buy a Diversion. Granted it doesn't have the stated capacity and adjustment capabilities of the 200X, but chances are it won't blow up on you and it comes with better accessories. The simplified user interface is also a lot easier to use for most hobby applications. The red and blue guys have extensive dealer networks. If you have a problem you can drop it off at your local guy and it's their problem. There is no shipping at great expense to the customer and long repair times. Extensive dealer networks and the shiny semi-trucks full of welders at the state fair cost money. It's part of what you pay for when you buy from the big guys. But you also get years of experience gained from building the equipment used day in and day out in professional shops. Looking back I was a fool to believe that something so cheap wasn't just that, cheap. I should have been more skeptical, no matter how many good reviews are on Amazon.
I wrote review this several months ago. At the time I was sick and tired of the people at AHP and I just decided to move on. I pushed the AHP hulk into the corner and forgot about it. Even if they fixed it I wouldn't have any confidence in it. I purchased a Miller Dynasty DX and started welding. Yes, the machine is much more expensive but it is flawless.
I decided to post this because I value the reviews here. They have been very helpful to me in the past and I want to do my part and share my experiance. I'm also aware that AHP stalks people who post bad reviews and demand that they take them down so many folks might be unaware of how bad this company is. I'm fortunate enough to be able to make an $800 dollar mistake but there was a time when I couldn't. If you fall into that category the last thing you need to do is waste your money. Think long and hard before you spend your hard earned money with AHP
After receiving the welder in good shape, I set it up and started welding. I'm amazed at how well it works. I've welded carbon steel and aluminum with great success. While I still have a lot to learn, I feel confident enough to start my next welding project using this welder.
Pros) comes with upgraded flow meter regulator.
3 year warranty
Cons) I didn't invest in this welder earlier.
The foot pedal tries to slip away from you each time you depress it, so I mounted it to a board with a heel rest to solve that issue.
I'm especially impressed with how well this rig works on aluminum.
Bottom line you can't go wrong with this machine. I predict the price will jump soon.
8/24/15 update. I purchased a "Hot Maxx WC100 cart for this welder. Didn't fit very well at all. I used it for a Miller Mig and purchased the Northern Tool cart with drawers (pictured) . Fits like a glove.
I spent about 1 year occasionally reading up on the AHP, as well as waiting to see if there would be a bunch of negative reviews after folks had had them for a while, but for the most part they seemed to get rave reviews from the vast majority of purchasers. I almost purchased the AHP at the end of 2014, but just as I was about to, I heard about the 2015 model coming up. I ended up waiting and I'm glad I did! That's not to say the earlier models aren't probably great welders, but the addition of a standard DINSE connection as well as the addition of the AC Frequency adjustment seemed to be well worth a little extra waiting. So far, I don't regret the extra couple months that went by before I finally did purchase the 2015 model.
The welder came pretty securely packed. I saw a review where a front cover was broken, and I don't doubt it was, but from the packaging I got, I'd have to say it must have been thrown around really hard by UPS to do that kind of damage. There was a lot of packing to protect the welder and ine came in perfect condition.
From an ergonomics standpoint, there are a couple of things that are real head-slappers. I don't get the impression that this welder was designed by someone who uses machinery alot. It looks pretty sleek and cool, but the plastic cover is a real pain to deal with In fact, I often just take it off and replace it when I'm done for the day. It doesn't really seem to keep much dust out of the controls, so functionally it is not that useful in operation, but when it's not in use it does a good job of protecting the knobs from getting hit by something in the shop, so there is at least a purpose for it. The other thing that I don't really care for is that the only method of turning the thing on or off is using the breaker in the back of the unit. You can't do this with gloves on, and it feels like it really isn't meant to be used as an on/off switch. I plan to add some sort of switch at some point upstream of the breaker, perhaps a mag switch, but then I don't plan to haul this thing around and use it on different power supplies either. I think the only real thing missing on this welder is a giant power switch on the front of the welder that can be operated with gloves on, otherwise everything else is very livable.
Once I got the welder, I tried it out with 120volts first. It works fine at 120 volts, but is limited to 150 amps if I remember right. Regardless, if you have 220/240 volts available, don't bother with the 120. The welder seems to just work a tad better with more punch (no other way to describe it) on 240 volts. I added about 20 feet of very heavy SO cord, and a 30 amp twist lock plug to mate with the 240 volt outlets I use for the rest of my shop equipment. Installing a new power cable was no small chore, just some advance notice to anyone thinking of doing it, but it is well worth it to be able to move the welder around a bit more. I also put the welder on the newer Harbor Freight roll around cabinet with drawers (Item#61705) with some sticky back rubber added to the top of the cabinet to keep the welder from sliding around. Fit pretty well and I would recommend the combo. All the accessories fit well in the cabinet.
As for the actual welding, I started out with straight tungsten electrodes and had no problems with the arc initiating from the high frequency starter. I've had it successfully start from up to about 1.5" away from the surface, usually by accident! Welding mild steel is just kids play with this welder. In fact, I had my 13 year old welding some casters to some 1/4" bar stock without any issue (other than that he melted one of the tires a little, crazy kid!). The pulsing works great, which I have been using for tasks like filling a hole in thin sheet material, like a trim hole on a car fender. I really use the pulsing feature in one way or another at least half the time I use this welder.
Welding aluminum is a bit tricky, but not because of this welder at all. It's just tricky if you have never worked with aluminum period. Understanding how to deal with the heat, both to your advantage and to avoid problems is not something you can pick up right away. If you're expecting a TIG welder to magically make welding aluminum easy, you are not being reasonable. Otherwise, once you have an understanding of how aluminum welds, the machine performs beautifully. At first, I found the sound of the AC welding to be a bit scary. I'm sure I'll always prefer welding steel over aluminum, but it's nice to have the option to do both. With some practice, I've been able to put together some decent welds in aluminum up to .250 thick but with passes from both sides. I'd estimate that you can reasonably do 1/8"-3/16" of aluminum in a pass, but to try and do more than that with this machine is probably not going to work out well and shouldn't be expected. 200 amps is 200 amps and you won't magically be able to do something that takes more than 200 amps.
Welding stainless is the one thing I've had more trouble with, but I also have not been equipped with a second tank to properly purge the welds. I've been able to weld stainless similar to welding steel, but the welds are definitely more brittle without purging and not as good as I'd hoped. This is not the fault of the welder, but the result of not having everything needed to do this right. You can weld stainless without purging, but be prepared for the fact that it won't be the best of results beyond looking OK. In my opinion, welding stainless seems a bit more difficult than welding aluminum, but I'm not sure if that's just me or a common experience others have had as well.
There are a lot of settings on this welder, and unfortunately the manual is not that great in my opinion. The settings are pretty universal though, so if you can find a buddy that knows their TIG welding, they should be able to tell you what all the settings are for. AC Balance is one that took me a while to understand, and burned up a few freshly ground tips in the process, but once you understand it, it's a great feature. The AC Frequency control works and I'm sure that I'll eventually be glad to have it, but it turns out that I don't see the big difference I've seen in some of the videos so far. I'm guessing that the way you grind the tip has a big influence on how effective that setting is. You should see a sharper arc with the higher frequency and a fatter arc with the lower frequency. There is also Start Amps, Main Amps, and End Amps, which I think are all pretty obvious and do pretty much exactly what they say. Post Flow is how long after you let off the arc that the gas continues to flow, in seconds. Pulse Freqency, Pulse Amps and Pulse Time On allow you to control the speed of the pulse, as well as the amount of amps the pulse drops to, and the amount of time that the pulse is at the Main Amps setting (or percentage of it based on pedal input); or at least this is the way that it seems from my experimenting with it. Bear in mind that if you use the pulsing, you are effectively reducing the total amperage, and may have to increase the overall main amps a bit to compensate. The advantage of the pulsing seems to be that you can keep the structure of the weld intact while you sort of slowly bring it together, so I find this extremely useful when working on something delicate. You can turn pulsing on or off with a switch, as well as switching between stick and TIG, AC and DC, or pedal and finger switch input by switches as well.
The pedal is pretty good, though a bit tall for my taste if I had any design input. It has the one drawback of being a piece of cast metal, that while durable is very slippery on the floor. It can't stay in the same spot! Some have fixed this with a board attached to the bottom, but that makes it a little too bulky for my taste, and harder to pack away when you're done. I ended up adding a rubber sole to the pedal and that has worked OK. It will still move a bit from time to time, but probably no worse than any other pedal sitting on a shop floor would at this point. The cable connecting the pedal to the unit is pretty long, and has not been a hindrance.
The regulator gets a bad rap, but when I took it in to Central welding for a replacement, they seemed to think that it does it's job fine and recommended that I spend my money on consumables instead. I have a larger bottle, somewhere over 300 cubic feet, and it seems to last me about a week of intermittent welding, perhaps 7-10 hours total depending on what I'm welding. It does cost a lot more to weld with TIG than MIG in my experience when it comes to the gas, so plan to spend twice as much on about the same amount of welding. I only use a small 90 cubic foot (if I remember right) bottle with my MIG, and I feel like I get the same amount of welding done with that as I do with the larger bottle on the TIG. TIG invites you to take more time with your work, but it does come at a cost. MIG forces you to work at it's pace, or end up with a pile of ugly weld if you don't cooperate. I've come to a workflow where I use the TIG where I want welds to look perfect and require no real cleanup, but where I can use the MIG for heavy quick welds, I do so to keep costs down (at the expense of having to clean up a little bit of weld spatter).
The ground clamp is fine, but not as nice as the one on my Lincoln, which has about twice the copper connecting it to the wire lead and a much stiffer spring. That said, it does the job and certainly doesn't need to be any better than it is. The cable is long, but really you can never have on that's too long so I'd always want it longer! Nothing to complain about here for sure.
The TIG torch is really quite good. It connects in seconds and comes off just as fast when you pack it up. I bought some nicer cups and collets when I got some electrodes, but the ones it came with are definitely usable. I'm sure that there are better torches out there, but you don't need one to get started for sure. I may try a few different torches out next year, but I'd be lying if I said that this torch keeps me from doing anything I need to. It's got a flex head as well, so you can really dial it in for any situation. If you are used to a very specific torch, you may have a strong preference against this one, but that would be the case for any torch but the one you are used to. I have not used the finger switch more than a couple times, but when you need to work where you can't use a pedal, it's a pretty good option. They didn't integrate that button well, and that would be my only real criticism of the torch. It seems like it was an afterthought slapped on with something like zip ties. Not a big deal, but doesn't feel well thought out.
The LED readout is also one of the few disappointments and seems like it could have been leveraged a little better. It would be great if it would automatically tell you the setting of every dial when you start turning a dial, so that you can more precisely set some of the functions. However, it only displays the Main Amps value when you are setting it up. The rest of the settings must be guessed by the markings on the face, which are probably pretty close. Once you start welding, the display will show you the amps in real time, so if you are using the footpedal, and let up on the pedal a bit, the amps reading on the LED will drop to match. I don't know for sure as I didn't watch, but I imagine that the same is true when you click on the torch switch in that mode. If I recall right, the first click goes to the starting amps, the second click to the main amps a third click to the end amps and a fourth click to off, but it's been a while since is used that function and I may be off.
I didn't have any interest in the stick welding function, so I can't say anything about it. It comes with what you need, I just haven't used it.
Fit and finish is good, on par with my Lincoln in terms of the plastic parts matching up to the metal parts, etc. It's quite heavy and does not feel like some cheap piece of junk. It feels substantial. Some may not like the color, but I'm kinda partial to it. I think it looks really nice and those who have seen it like it as well. Hopefully that gives everyone a lot of info, maybe more than you wanted. bottom line is that I'd buy this welder again and I'd recommend it to my best friends without hesitation. As with all products, I'm sure there are a percentage that have problems, but from everything I've found and my own experiences, I'd guess it's a small percentage. I just can't see a better value even at double what they are asking for these and I spent a long time shopping for a TIG (years).